Hey all… I have a quick question… My car unfortunately came with manual door locks…
I was wondering what skill level would be req’d to install the factory door lock actuator into my door…I found and tried to install an aftermarket one but they suck and I don’t like em…so I talked to the Acura dealer about it and they said I could get one for $153.
I don’t normally have passengers, so I am not worried about my pass. door. Thanks…
If you have a mechanical sense, aftermarket actuators are pretty simple to install. mount the actuator bend the rod so you can clip to the factory lock rod.
the hardest part is running the wires through the factory door loom. you will also have to wire 2 relays to a switch or alarm.
I do this type of thing regularly and it takes about an hour to do both doors with wires through factory loom.
um, its been done, I know cause I did it to my car using oem parts from a GS. Hard part was wiring up the doors to the fuse box and making it stock. As far as the wiring through the door hinge, that was easy with the help of a clothes hanger.
Hey folks,
just a Q. where did you mount the actuator? Any pics? I have a few ideas, but I’m not too sure. So far the suggestions from G2IC are consistently the best…
Thanks,
Ed
Acutator location pics
OK, so I installed the actuators.
Here is a pic.
Here is the power source…just in case anybody was curious…
While I was wiring up the actuators, following the instructions. I notcied that the drivers side door locks had 2 wires, while the passenger side had 5 wires. I realized later why this was so…
The drivers side actuator does not send feedback to the relay. While the passengers side does. I don’t understand why this would be the case?!?!
Basically what this means is when I’m opening or closing the drivers side lock, nothing else happens. BUT if I’m opening or closing the passenger’s side doorlock, both locks will open or close.
I can kinda see why this makes sense, for single entry security and such. But I’m kind of dissipointed that I can open the passenger side door for somebody else, while I’m unlocking my driver side door.
Is this how it’s supposed to be?
I guess it’s a good thing I’m installing the remote entry system anyway… 
[quote]While I was wiring up the actuators, following the instructions. I notcied that the drivers side door locks had 2 wires, while the passenger side had 5 wires. I realized later why this was so…
The drivers side actuator does not send feedback to the relay. While the passengers side does. I don’t understand why this would be the case?!?!
Basically what this means is when I’m opening or closing the drivers side lock, nothing else happens. BUT if I’m opening or closing the passenger’s side doorlock, both locks will open or close.
I can kinda see why this makes sense, for single entry security and such. But I’m kind of dissipointed that I can open the passenger side door for somebody else, while I’m unlocking my driver side door.
Is this how it’s supposed to be?
I guess it’s a good thing I’m installing the remote entry system anyway…[quote]
The 5 wire actuator should be installed in drivers door.
Arrghh!
Um? It’s European?
Dammit…:bawl:
um u screwed up somewhere edcura. It suppose to be the other way around. When u open ur driversside door and close it, its suppose to open the passenger side as well. I guess its cause u have an aftermarket. I installed stock actuators in mine.
Yeah, its backwards. The passenger side door is not supposed to be king!
I will have to re-wire the drivers side, and swap the actuators. Argh…
Just goes to show…patience, dilligence and a helluva lot of time will get it perfect.
And getting to drive around with no drivers side door panel now 
~ed~
Need help finding some wires
Ok ok, so you can follow my lack of progress above …but hey. 1 steps forward…2 steps back?
I’ve been surfing the helms for appropriate wiring to get the job done. I can see on the circuit diagrams what colour the wire is supposed to be, but I can’t find that wire amongst the millions under the dash!!
Does anyone know where I can tap the parking lights or hazards with the output from the remote control brain?
It’s a 12 volt pulse with a 15 amp fuse on it. So I’m not sure if I’m to hit a relay with it or go for the gold and try to power the lights using that signal…?
Thanks! :read:
~edcura~
re: actuators
Hey, does anyones actuators ever lock up once in a while? Mine do and it sucks. They just wont lock and I have to manually lock and unlock. I was trying to figure a way to prevent this from happening. I have lifetime garantee from good guys for my actuators, but nowadays I just open it up myself to fix. I think the metal wires are popping out, need to somehow reinforce.
Hey, does anyones actuators ever lock up once in a while? Mine do and it sucks. They just wont lock and I have to manually lock and unlock. I was trying to figure a way to prevent this from happening. I have lifetime garantee from good guys for my actuators, but nowadays I just open it up myself to fix. I think the metal wires are popping out, need to somehow reinforce.
buy new ones $10 a pair.
Re: Need help finding some wires
Originally posted by edcura
[B]Ok ok, so you can follow my lack of progress above …but hey. 1 steps forward…2 steps back?
I’ve been surfing the helms for appropriate wiring to get the job done. I can see on the circuit diagrams what colour the wire is supposed to be, but I can’t find that wire amongst the millions under the dash!!
Does anyone know where I can tap the parking lights or hazards with the output from the remote control brain?
It’s a 12 volt pulse with a 15 amp fuse on it. So I’m not sure if I’m to hit a relay with it or go for the gold and try to power the lights using that signal…?
Thanks! :read:
~edcura~ [/B]
You can plug the alarm wire into dash fuse box option connector b. this circuit is for the park lamps. the alarm already has a relay built in since their is a fuse on the wire.
Sorry to bud in on this thread but I got a question…
I plan on buying Autoloc’s power door lock kit (standalone with no remote) and installing that.
http://www.autoloc.com/detail.lasso?itemid=CL2000
Then I want to get an alarm system with the lock/unlock buttons on the remote.
My question is, can the alarm be wired so that when I press the “LOCK” button the doors will lock and the alarm will engage, and if I press the “UNLOCK” button the opposite happens?
Thanks in advance guys.
Luciferi you’re the king! I never thought about doing that. I didn’t want to power the clock and chimes, but it works beautifully!
I was a little concerned about two devices pushing the 12V on that line at the same time, but I realized that it should be fine since they’re at the same potential…
Thanks!
fLaPjAk: i’m not sure I can answer your question, but I can tell you this. The way the remote works is pretty darn important, and having a seperate lock and unlock buttons, keeps you from wondering if you unlocked it or locked it when you didn’t really pay attention to the blinking lights…
From my experience with the kits, all the alarm has to do is send a lock pulse to the power door relay, mine work like that fine. Checking out autoloc’s website, the kit looks suspeciously similar to my $30US kit from rcnacura. I can’t believe it $75cdn!
It seems that most alarms can do that sort of thing, so all you need to do is make sure that the PDL relay is negative or positively triggered, and make sure your alarm works the same way, or you’ll have to get another little polarity reversing unit.
I’d say you’re not asking something impossible.
BTW, dude, I’ll be returning to Toronto in August…I’d love to check out your wheels!
~ed~
Yap yap yap
Originally posted by fLaPjAk
[B]Sorry to bud in on this thread but I got a question…
I plan on buying Autoloc’s power door lock kit (standalone with no remote) and installing that.
Then I want to get an alarm system with the lock/unlock buttons on the remote.
My question is, can the alarm be wired so that when I press the “LOCK” button the doors will lock and the alarm will engage, and if I press the “UNLOCK” button the opposite happens?
Thanks in advance guys. [/B]
Did you mean “LOCK” button on the remote?yes, it will work.
I would recommend you to buy the factory door lock switches, two Harada actuators, and two relays instead of a kit. the Harada actuators are better and the factory lock swiches are reasonably priced.
Yup, I meant the lock button on the remote.
I don’t want the inside of my car to have the power lock button inside. I want to keep just the manual locks, and manual windows.
But I want the actuators inside the door, and to be controlled by the lock/delock button on my remote, and that’s it. I hope that clarifies what I’m trying to say
Well in that case, buy an alarm with built in door lock relays and two Harada actuators. These are two wire actuators that only lock/unlock from alarm. An alarm and both actuators will cost about the same as that autoloc kit.
Originally posted by Luciferi
Well in that case, buy an alarm with built in door lock relays and two Harada actuators. These are two wire actuators that only lock/unlock from alarm. An alarm and both actuators will cost
about the same as that autoloc kit.
I recently got a 90 LS that came with alarms & auto locks. Unfortunately, the actuators may be too strong or their travel is too long, causing the lock/unlock levers to have snapped a long time ago (according to the previous owner). The doors lock/unlock when I arm/disarm via the remote or when the engines starts/shuts off, so I don’t really need the lock/unlock levers. But it’d be nice to open the doors when the engine is running (the remote is disabled when the engine is running).
Do you think that if I replace the existing actuators with these Harada actuators (and replace the interior door handles), it’ll prevent the levers from breaking?
O, when I use the keys to unlock the door, I have to turn kinda hard, much harder than in a normal car. Perhaps the existing actuators are not freely moving enough?
echan
your actuators are probably not adjusted properly or the rod is not at the proper angle for smooth operation.
The lock/unlock levers seem to prone to breaking in general . The actuators won’t break them, but if they are not hard to move from being improperly installed or just worn out, they will cause excess force on the levers which may cause them to break.
Check the actuators out first and once they are moving freely you can replace the levers with no worries.