getting frustratied
i have a 90 teg ls picked it up for 700 of some guy who didnt know how to fix it i changed the main fuel relay and now it runs cool but turns off on me while im driving then it takes about 20 mins before it will start again there is fuel pressure all my injector r good ect. i cant figure it out if any body can help it would be very appreciated :mad:
probably your ignition coil and/or igniter. need to test em. http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=614829#post614829
thanx i just changed the cap rotor and coil
how do you remove the lower dash trim
Hi,
i currently have some problem starting my car, i want to take out the main relay and check the condition of it, I know that i have to remove the lower dash panel to get to the relay, but i’m having problem removing it, can anyone point me out to how to take the lower panel out. thx
its pretty easy. after you pry out the coin holder, that is unless its already broken like the rest of us, there should just be two screws on the bottom, then the panel pops out with a little force. pull it straight towards you.
then get a 10mm socket and long extension to get to the bolt that holds the MFR.
btw anyone have any updates with theirs? mine still keeps flipping out and i have to disconnect the plug and slowly plug it back in again. this is my 2nd one. perhaps my soldering was just too crappy. well i have a 3rd that should be in good order. if not, it might be my connector wires…
well i happened to come across another one for free so i popped that in and its been starting flawlessly. not sure how new it is, but i do know the other two i have are junk!
xdeep: yeah, note that he says 15-25W…that’s about right for PCB. your 150/230W fire machine might have done some cooking =)…i’m usually able to get away with a 30 or 40W iron when i do repair work on guitar amplifiers, and that’s what i used for my climate control so as long as you’re careful and don’t “brown” the surrounding board too much you can probably get away with higher wattage irons.
either way, i have this problem occasionally as well, i’ll be doing it in the morning now that i know what’s up!
i just had my main relay changed last week and it went on me again today and its not evn hot out here its raining like typical vancouver. what can i do to prevent this to happen again. how do u prevent the vapour lock in the lines
new or used? perhaps its your igniter/coil?
Thank you so much! You all just saved me $60 bucks. Sure enough it was the relay with bad connections. It fired right up after that. Perfecto.
Yay!
Guide saved me some money from having to buy another relay. Although i had to do it about 2-3 times cuz I was stupid… but in the end it all works out right?
Might i suggest tho, that if you have some spare wire lying around (i had some pieces of copper wire) that you slide it in there while you heat up the old or add new solder, that way, even if the solder cracks again (which it really shouldnt if done right) theres still a nice connection in there.
thanks again for the write-up
that’s a good idea. it would make it practically fool-proof.
did anyone else who had this problem had cracks in it? or was it only xdeep?
im looking at two of mine right now, both have the same problem. wont start, no pressure, but when i smack it a couple of times (not bolted/held down aswell) it just starts right up…
but…
it would run, but if i let it idle down, it would die, and not start again, but then i’d be able to smack it, then it would work again… but now also, if i keep giving it gas, it wont die out…
is that normal?
perhaps its the connector and not the relay? my 95 dc is doing the same thing. dang SOB. i have to nudge around that area for it to start. i wonder if its the cheesy alarm…
well, i went to the junkyard and picked up a few MFRs and tested them out on my car while it was hot (took a while,couple of days actually to be able to test all of them),
most of them wouldnt let my car turn on like the usual problem,
i did the soldering and they re-acted the same way (not turning on immediately)
except for like 3 MFRs. I noticed ( i dunno what its called) that the green plastic was different from those that didnt work , in the ones that didnt work that green plastic was brown and worn out. But in the 3 that worked just fine: that plastic was in perfect condition not worn out or anything.
like the picture above, you can see those brown swirls, those MFRs that really didnt work had alot of that.
Could this be something else to look into?
oooookay…
that’s one of the symptoms then?
if the browning on the chip, then it’s more likely bad, or going bad?
i might buy one from the dealership soon, so i’ll take pictures of the guts before i install it, just to see if it’s all brand new & not brown…
I think the brown stuff is flux, which is kinda like a cleaning agent while soldering. When hot it turns into liquid, somewhat like vaseline or crisco. That brown, I believe, is just the flux that melted.
It shouldn’t have anything to do with the solder just being old.
I just heated up the old solder, used a wire brush to take away and put new solder on. Worked perfectly fine.
hey xdep i just got a new distributor king distributor, had it on for a week, no probs, but TODAY out of no where my car doesnt start up after i drove it and its not hot out, it takes like 5 tries to get the car started. and when i turn my key in the 2nd position my guage lights dont pop on, and whats weird is when i turn the key back they flash for a split second. what could my problem be? you think its my timing because i didnt go get my car timed after i changed the distributor? please i need help fast, and i dont have no idea how to solder i dont wanna get stuck anywhere
hm sounds complicated. the first thing i would address is not having power. if you’re not getting power in the ON position, i would troubleshoot that before anything else. you can troubleshoot the igniter and coil also. finally, the fuel relay. good luck.
well all my lights and stuff work and it cranks but my guage lights wont come on sometime now, i dont understand whats going on… im like totally confused, you would have to see it to believe it, maybe ill make a video. but yeah i ordered a new main fuel relay so i hope it fixes my problem. and i dont hear the beeps like i used too when putting the key in the 2nd position