does anyone happen to have pics of exactly where its located, i cant seem to find it lol
I just replaced my relay. I had tried the solder trick, but apparently something else was wrong with the thing. I went through the Acura troubleshooting flowchart and it failed a couple of the tests, so I decided to replace the main fuel relay with a new part. Acura’s got a slightly redesigned part – it’s got a different number stamped on the case, and the bracket is all wrong for our cars 
Just as a general note, the relay is under the dash and slightly to the left of the steering column.
Here’s a shot of the new vs old with the brackets detached (but in their original orientations). New is on the left. Note how the new bracket puts the relay backwards and upside down – basically right where the smaller relay is piggybacked, plus the wire harness would be coming out the top instead of from the bottom. I ended up swapping brackets to make it work.
Here’s a shot of the relay in the dash, from the driver’s door area looking in. The main fuel relay is just behind the smaller relay with the blue writing on it. They both mount up to the same bolt.
Here’s another look – this time from the center console/passenger seat looking under the steering wheel.
Here’s a close up of the small relay (166500-0320) which is mounted in front of the main fuel relay. See the bolt above the small relay? If you look closely, that bolt secures two brackets. The main fuel relay is mounted to the inner bracket of the two which are attached to that bolt. And yes, it’s a small handfull to get everything lined up when you’re trying to put stuff back together 
And finally, here’s a pic of the plastic bag from the new relay.
Hope this helps!
Jim
yeah i mounted mine differently, at first i was like what the hell, is this the right part? but i got it in and mounted.
When i turn my key over, i do not hear a click when the engine light shuts off and i do not hear my fuel pump primeing. Could this be the problem? Thanks, Jim
yes it can be…
so what if it clicks
I changed mine but it worked temporarily ( if thats how you spell it) the one I replaced it with came from a 4 door would that matter. I still have the old one and both of them click. I think my distributor is going wrong. My dad told me to remove the spark plug wire and stick a screwdriver in it, lay it on the valve cover and try to start the car. I saw no spark, does that mean me distributor is bad. And another thing if I take it off dont I have to put it back on a certain way.
This car is driving me nuts. It has been not starting again, like last summer, I guess because it is hot and stuff. It starts in the morning, when it is cool, or on rainy days, but as soon as it gets sunny and hot out…Nothing. I work at AutoZone, and I had a friend of mine do a lil prying around…A few probs. He said I am not getting any spark, so he thinks it is the Ignition Control Module, but I have tried to get it out and the lil screw is stripped and I am going to have to get someone to get that out. I changed the Cap and Rotor today, and tied endlessly to file down a part of the screw to be able to use a flathead instead, but it’s not working. Next off, I believe it could also have something to do with what is the culprit off everyone elses G2, the MFR. I located it today, after a while, but am also afraid to pull too hard on the dash to get it off, and yes, my lil drawer thing is broken too. I am gonna have to see if I can have someone take that out and check the connections. Also a guy at work did mention vapor lock. What is that exactly? He said something hilarious like use a clothes pin or something. What do you think? Help…lol :sad:
friggin awesome. I LOVE THIS BOARD.
fixing my MFR now.
This is old, but I’m trying to figure out why my 'teg won’t start, so I found htis…
I’m somewhat of a solderign expert. I’m actually certified 
ANYWAY!
The brown stuff (I finally realized what you guys were talking about) is what is called flux. Flux is conductive! And if not removed, will conduct electricity. Flux is also corrosive. Especially if you have pooling going on between contacts or traces (the green lines). Rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush/cotton swab will usually take this stuff, unless it’s old, then it takes some scrubbing - in comes the toothbrush.
Solder is not meant to be conductive, jsut a means to ‘weld’ the parts together.
Adding too much solder to a joint will actually make it weaker and more prone to failure. The correct amount will look like a volcano from the side. You’ll see it nicely attached down low, and then up to the tip. They call it whicking. You should not see a ‘ball’ of solder on your joint. It should also be shiny and not dull in color.
A bad (cold) solder joint can be caused by too much heat, not enough heat, or the part moving before the solder has cooled.
The best way to resolder the cracked ones is to remove all of the solder from the component, then make sure the component is sitting on the board flush (probably the reason the solder cracked, is the part had the ability to move/vibrate). Then resolder the terminals with new stuff. Apply heat to the joint, then add solder and let it ‘flow’ into place.
Do NOT use acid core on electronics! Acid core is for plumbing only.
Myself, I prefer organic core solder. It’s about the same price as flux core, but much better, IMO. For one, flux is cancerous. Organic core is not and it is also water soluable. On large PC board solder jobs, I literally put the boards in teh dishwasher after soldering to clean off the organic core solder. Much easier than standing over the parts to clean them, espeically when you have more to do and time is of the essence. ie piece work! 
last night i smelt burning plastic. stopped at a light and it died. Now if it starts it stumbles all over the place think it could be this relay
yeah it could be hatch, also i’m gonna try this tomarrow… i was gonna just buy a new one until i heard you can re-solder them… so i’ll try this and tell ya how it works.:salute:
Just did mine…Waiting for a hot day to test it out since
my car only have a hard time starting on hot days.
In Wisconsin it’s getting cold so it might be next year
to do the final test.
me too just save me $60 Thanks a lot!
Now that it gotten warmer outside. My car sits at my job most of the week. When i go to start it:sometimes it starts and dies and sometime not at all. Or sometimes i’ll go somewhere turn the car off and go to leave it starts and dies. Could that relay be the cause of my problem or fuel pressure regulator.
Yes, the relay is MOST LIKELY the cause. Mine was doing that so I grabbed an extra from picknpull. One day it wouldn’t start, I took out the spare, popped it in, and it started right up. Hasn’t happened since.
Say when removing the main fuel relay do you need to remove that metal plate like in this pic:
Because it’s a bitch to get to the MFR with this thing attached, I see two bolts on the left side but I can’t to locate the ones on the right they disappear behind the middle center console, so do I need to remove this console as well?
I got to it just fine with the metal plate there with an extension. Undo the bolt and swing both relays down, there is enough wire to pull them down behind the plate once the bolt is removed.
Hey guys, I just took mine out and I don’t see any cracks anywhere. Has anyone still had a bad MFR without having cracks? Thanks fellas.
Since you have it out already, I’d just heat up the solder points to ensure good connectivity. Test it out.
If that still doesn’t work, perhaps you have a buddy in and around your area with a working MFR that you can pop in and try.
Just heat up the points on top right?
