Okay gays I really hope you can help me.
A few months ago I noticed that if I floored it the car would bog/misfire as if it’s being help back from power. Do my job loss I could not fix right away.
After much research and money I didn’t have but spent this is what I’ve changed.
Ngk wire, ngk plus, new from dealer cap n rotor. Swapped igniter and main fuel relay. Also fuel regulator.
I heard it could be tps so what I did was unplug it yes it have me check engine but if that was the problem it would go away and well it didn’t.
Things I’ve heard and haven’t changed is
Ecu
Vtec sylonoid
Mind this happens weather cold or hot at 6000rpm. But I accelerate slowly pass 6, its fine.
Please please help and sorry for the long story.
@ welfare- i think i has something to do with spark/ignition also. but ive run out of ideas. and the second part you said i did think of that. but my DIY idea was put the car on jack stands and have a buddy of mine check the presure as i floor it. because i do have the gage on the filter.
now i also read somewhere that it could be the fuel filter. how true can that be.
@mattyg2. sup man… its been a minute.
well no i havent check voltage… reason why was because i dont have the tool, plus what my friend did was unplug it. so yes it gave me a cel. and idled but still has the issue.
car runs great as long as i dont floor it pass 6000rpm. but if gradually do it the car response well.
running the vehicle on stands puts absolutely zero load on it. greatest load is placed on a vehicle travelling uphill. think of it this way, the amount of force necessary to move the wheels. battling a hill, those wheels use much more energy to turn. that energy of course comes from the piston. this is where cylinder pressures really increase. and with an increase in cylinder pressure comes a much greater strain on the ignition system. so, how much pressure are we placing on an ignition system when testing for spark OUTSIDE of the cylinder? zero. here’s a comparison for you, that spark plug gap, once under even mild cylinder pressure, changes from .05" to 3". that’s right, 3"! so, we need to stress test the ignition system. the HEI tester does this by increasing the gap and therefore resistance to what’s comparable to a light load inside the combustion chamber. if you don’t have one, buy one. keep it in your glovebox and you’ll be ready to diagnose an ignition system in the matter of 3 minutes. they’re dirt cheap. get it and test.
since you have a gauge installed in the bay, here’s a great procedure for testing both pressure AND flow.
start the vehicle. pressure should read approximately 35-40psi. everybody knows that one. that’s a pressure test. now, pinch off the vac line to the fuel pressure regulator. pressure should increase by roughly 10psi. this is a regulator system test. what you’re actually doing here is simulating WOT. since at WOT we have zero vacuum. no need to even touch the pedal. now, with the line pinched, snap the throttle 3 times while observing pressure. if pressure drops more than 2 psi, you have a flow issue. either worn pump or fuel filter restriction.
there you have it. if you have an HEI tester in the glove, got your gauge up front, you’re ready to perform indepth diagnostics on both the ignition and fuel system at the drop of a hat.
personally, i don’t think it sounds like a fuel related issue. usually an issue like bogging at a specific rpm, especially in the higher range, is ignition
I feel like I’ve just been schooled which is not a bad thing. It’s new knowledge.
I’ll make sure to test tomorrow.
Also I’m going to b swapping TB and testing diff distributor.
I’ll keep you posted
okay ladies and gents. i have found the issue to my car and im glad to say its fixed and running like a champ.
before i tell you the answer here are a few more things i changed before i could out the issue.
fuel regulater, and fuel pump.
and the answer is.
TPS. like i thught it would be. its hard to start there when your broke for that week. sucks balls ill say. but finally had a friend who had a TB sitting in his garage. took the TPS put it on and from a different friend he made sure it was set right. sparked the car right away let if warm up. took it to the street and floored it and let me tell you. for that moment, i thing i fell inlove again. jajajajajajaja.
honDA9v timing is good.
welfare… so i have another thing…
since i changed the tps. car idles at 2000. wont go up n down just stays at 2000. the lowest it will go is 1500. could it be that the TPS wasnt set right?
that is correct. which is why i held off on changing the TPS till the last because of that reason. but the more i searched and i checked off everything else. the only thing i hadnt physically changed was the TPS. and onces i did that WAHLLLA! it fixed the probelm.
