How hard would it be to swap a b18c or b18c5 into a 91 integ…hearing a lot about tranny stuff…and obd0 obd1 etc. problems that a person might run into…can any give me details of price etc. problems. etc…just curious
I think all that info is in the teg tips, an for pricing you’d have to shop around is my guess.
but for a b18c to go in, you’d need a cable tranny, an since your car is a 91 which is non-obd you’d probably go with a PR3 ecu. also you may need to change the intake manifold to something along the lines of skunk2 or Type-R manifold. also the distributor an fuel injectors would have to be non-obd?(not too sure about the last two)
the engine should just drop in, no need for special mounts or anything
here are some routes you can take for the c1 or c5 swap in a non obd teg
things you will need:
non obd vtec distributor
cable short geared tranny
non obd vtec ecu
things you can use from your teg:
injectors
basically all you need from the c1 or c5 is the longblock and get the aforementioned parts
http://hasport.com/ …they have every thing u need to cmplete the swap…that is if you dont mind spending the extra cash to make things real easy.
yes. like the other guys said. ^ teg tips helped out alot. i just got it done to my car with the C1. i just need a manifold now and a full tune up… hehheheheehhe…
Swapping the motor itself itsn’t difficult at all. It’s the crappy smog laws that we drive under that make it a little weird.
question: CAN you or CANNOT use the LS distributor on the b18c motor. problem is, i got a flash code 9 on the ecu. and check engine light is on. i’m checking everything possible. HELP!
Yes you can use an LS distributor on that motor. I don’t know what code 9 is though.
well i checked the teg tips guide and it says a code for Cylinder #1
but thats referring to a pr4, not pr3. are they the same?:read:
so OBD is not a main concern…just got to change the ecu right?
what would be wrong with using ur exsisting s1 or y1 tranny? just wondering considering someone mentioned only thing u could use from ur old teg is the injectors.
Originally posted by Jrock
so OBD is not a main concern…just got to change the ecu right?
the harnesses are different…take a look
jrock: read the teg tips, it explains the obd issues. Which basically aren’t a big deal. If your car is 90-91 (non obd) then you will use non obd parts (injectors, distributor, ecu). If your car is a 92-93 (obd1) you will use obd1 parts. This is independant of the engine you use.
delphilsvtec: your stock b18a1 tranny has really long gears. And it won’t work well with your new vtec engine. Every time you shift you’ll drop out of vtec. Plus it won’t be as fun.
as a general rule: vtec trannies are better for all engines (yes, both vtec and non vtec) unless you are FI. If you are FI (i.e. turbo) the longer gears on the ls tranny are useful.
what would be cheaper a cable to hydro conversion or a new tranny.
look at it like this:
to go hydro:
-hydro tranny $500-$800 (the itr trannies are often more)
-cable to hydro conversion kit: $??? (from what i hear they aren’t even being made anymore–because they realized its a dumb idea)
to go cable:
-cable tranny $300-$600 ($600 would be for a 92-93 gsr tranny, or a jdm ys1 w/ lsd)
As you can see, staying with a cable tranny is much more cost effective, and a lot easier. And personally i like the feel of a cable tranny much better than that of a hydro.
the JDM ys1 sounds nice any idea where to get one besides joe blow on ebay
Hello, I need some help. 92 GSR B17. I just bought this car and know no history. but do notice that maybe the head gasket has been done due to the nice shiny head.
Cold start- idle at 2500 and will make its way to almost 3000. After about 30second to 1 min. the idle will drop down to normal 500 and bounce up to 1500 After running like that for about 1-2min and warms up a bit the problem goes away and idles normal.
I’m not having any driveability issues. i do get a code9. after reset ecu,cold start and the check light doesn’t come on until it starts doing the idle bounce. i have done this more than once due to thats the only way to diag… IAC looks new. and so does the distributor.
Thank you for any thoughts.
SOrry if this doesnt exactly fit with this post completely but this is the first post after 10 pages of clicking that i can actually reply to.
I’d definitely go through all of the idle control stuff and give it a tune up, reset the ecu and see if the issue and code remain.
- IACV
- FITV
- Check coolant level, burp, burp again and make sure there is NO air in the system
Code 9 indicates an issue with Cyl #1 Position - a sensor which is in the distributor would be where you would start troubleshooting. Check out page 11-68 in your Helms Manual and it’ll walk you through the procedure.