hello, i have a 1990 teg with about 180k miles on the chassis. the engine is a newer b18a1 with about 78k miles on it. i’ve read through all of the “my car won’t start” guides, and every one of them have only made me more puzzled. my problem is that my car will start right up and run with no problems at all on some days, and other days the engine still turns over but my RPM needle just bounces on zero and it refuses to start up. i have tried push starting it when it’s done that, and the engine winds up when i let out the clutch, but the engine has no power and pressing the accelerator does nothing, the engine just turns over untill the vehicle slows to a halt. :argh:
what problem could cause my car to start and drive perfectly all day long some of the times, and other times i’ve tried to start it for half an hour straight untill the battery finally dies? it gets even more frustrating when, after a day straight of not being able to get it to start, i’ve gone out to it and had it start on the first crank. i’ve changed the spark plugs and the spark plug wires, but the problem still hasn’t stopped. i have had it start up perfectly in the morning, driven it to school, and then not been able to get it to start in the school parking lot multiple times. WTF?!?!
i’m a bit of a do-it-yourself’er, so i’m looking for some tips of what i could do before i’m forced to just take it to a mechanic and pay him a chunk of $$$. any insight would be appreciated.
-kith
I going to second slammedtegs answer. There’s at least 5 threads in here this month with the same prob. If you’re a “jack of all trades and a master of some” then tackle this prob with your soldering iron, then let us know. Also, the electrical forum has the basics on the “how to”.
okay, i’ll take a swing at that MFR and then let you guys know if it did the trick. thanks, this is my first japanese car, they’re easy as pie to work on, but nothing at all like my 5.0 mustang i used to have… i still catch myself checking the glove box for the fuel door button when i get gas :excite:
hey guys, is it true that if your check engine light turns off after 2 seconds when you turn the key, that your MFR is functioning properly? because if that is so, then my MFR is functioning properly… :pupeyes:
You might wanna check your battery cables and check for corrosion… mine did the same thing., the neg cable that bolts to the frame was rusted… so i replaced for like $10 bucks… also bought new postive & negative terminals… started right up… GL…
Wow!! Finally someone else with the same problem. My tach would not bounce at all, then it would all of a sudden bounce and start up, after maybe a half hour. Then other times its just fine. It hasnt done it since like september, but it got very annoying when it did that.
okay, so i took out my MFR like i was told to, and i couldn’t find any broken connections on it, leaving me a little skeptical, so i just went ahead and beefed up every single solder joint on the relay. i popped it back in and my car has been 100% reliable every day since then. thanks a ton, to everyone that helped me!
i recommend anybody with similar problems as mine try repairing their mfr before anything else.
holy shit, i finally found sombody else w the same problem, it gets on my fucking nerves,its gotten a lill bit better since i started it w starting fluid…but for like 20 days i would drive to work in the morning, and then it wouldnt start when i was out of work, …now sometimes itll start in the morning, sometimes i wait about 30mins after …sometimes i use starting fluid…i dont know wth it is…whats the mfr u guys talking about…i need help too!!..please!!
