just wanted to make a thread to post up my progress on tuning my car with hondata s300. If you have Smanager on your computer and you want to look at my calibration files and associated datalogs just let me know. I will send them in an email if I can’t post them here. If the motor blows then it blows. Not worried about it. The goal is just to be a daily driver with some fun. 200hp is all im looking for. It should make about the same tq as hp
Setup
90 Integra
B20B engine (redline is like 6500rpm)
LS transmission
T25 SR20 turbo (pete pablo)
stock wastgate (I read 10psi on my last datalog)
R/C 550cc injectors
I was having a problem with over heating but since I have moved my intake out from behind my the radiator fan and added wet wetter to my coolant I haven’t had any problems. I still have to wire in another fan for the a/c
Dialed in my fuel trim settings. Created a boost table w/ these settings; -0.75*/PSI w/ 120% fuel added over N/A. got a/f at idle ~14.7. Checked base timing is at 16* in Smanager and with a light.
Basically I’ve been pulling fuel out over most of the map. I have been able to get into 80% throttle 3rd gear pulls but it’s way to rich so I’m pulling fuel out. I’m going to start driving the car daily so I can datalog more of the map such as “on ramps” and such. I have pretty much all of my part throttle portion of the map in the 14.xx:1 ratio. More to the rich side of the 14’s but I’m leaning them out a bit more and then going to see how closed loop runs. My boost portion of the map is a bit rich. mostly around 12.0:1 a/f in boost.
The datalogs I have been using are from 3rd gear pulls. I’m trying to tune on days that the weather is about the same outside so I have about the same temps between tuning sessions.
Any insight is always appreciated. I don’t get butt hurt over someone correcting me or if I did something wrong. I’m all about learning and spreading what information I can so long as it is information I know is correct. I’m by no means an expert at this. Just a guy trying to learn.
I really like the S300. So much that I bought the V2 for my LS/vtec CRX. It’s pretty straight forward. But I’m learning as I go. I have read a lot of books on EFI systems and stand alone ECU tuning/programming over the years and messed around with Smanager for a while to figure out my way around the software. It makes a lot more sense when you hook up the laptop and start datalogging and looking at the tables. To me, setting up all the parameters was the biggest hurdle. I also went on hondata’s forum and downloaded other peoples calibrations files and datalogs (people looking for help with their tunes) just to see how things looked and how it compared to what I was doing.
Right now I’m looking for ways to cool down my IAT. I ordered a turbo blanket and going to either ceramic coat or wrap (titanium) the charge pipe and intake pipe. I think that will cool the temps down. I will compare it to my datalogs as the parts come in. I will see how the turbo blanket by itself works and then after the pipes are wrapped.
I was able to get everything to stay in a good temp. range now. I moved installed a turbo blanket and moved the intake pipe. Haven’t seen temps over 200*F so far.
I need to update this thread and plan on it after I get to the dyno. I’m installing a oil catch can and hondata boost controller. I will be turning the boost up to 10psi and tuning ignition on the dyno and then back to street tuning fuel. As of now I have the car running off the wideband o2 sensor in closed loop and set my target now to 14.2 : 1 a/f for part throttle. Talking with a reputable tuner, he suggested to go a bit richer b/c of the ethanol in the fuel. I setup the closed loop feedback to target a voltage that I set at 2.11v to get to 14.2 : 1 A/F. A friend of mine and tuner (Derek @ DDTECH) is helping me with the ignition timing and showing me some tips and tricks with reading plugs.
After our first street tune he got me to do a third gear pull from 2000rpm to redline (I only went to 6000rpm) and used virtual dyno to get a rough idea in power. Made 225hp/215 ftlb tq on 5.5psi. He said it’s within 5% accuracy to what a dyno puts out. Not sure which dyno type he was referring to.
I have been driving the car around for about a month after the tune and I have been tuning part throttle for gas mileage and my closed loop is pretty damn close. I’m getting great gas mileage now.
I have had 2 problems that I’m trying to figure out and I’m sure they will be resolved soon.
Low voltage with headlights on. The alternator doesn’t seem to going to high output when I put my headlights on. Using a new alternator, at idle, and headlights on. My voltage will drop to 12.5v and decrease slowly until I start to drive and the voltage holds at 14.0-14.3v. With the headlights off the voltage stays at 14.0-14.3v as it should. I talked with Hondata and they suggested to disconnect the altc wire from the ECU (pin A16). I’m going to give that a try on my lunch break and see what happens.
During first start up on a cold day, I get a rough idle and think it’s something to do with the correction tables in the post start fuel enrichment area. I’m datalogging at different temps to see what’s going on. IT only last for 30 seconds max and then idles perfect and drives fine.
I will update this thread more now that I have everything in motion.
Installed a catch can and going to run fittings to the back of the block. Also got my ECU chipped to enable boost control through Smanager. I’m going to go to 10psi and dyno tune and probably setup boost by gear later down the road.
i would be very careful with upping the boost on a b20. the sleeves do not take boost very well and if you have a slight spike to 11-12 lbs the sleeve might crack. just speaking from personal experience while street tuning lol… good luck and keep the good work
Oh yeah, got to be careful with the stock sleeves. That’s why I wanted to go with boost control to my Ecu. I’m going to creep up to my target slowly and you are right about the boost spike. You have to factor that in so they say to set the target psi a little lower than what you want. Boost is relative to the turbo size so I’m sure you had a bigger turbo than what I am using. T25 is not common on a b series engine.
Update on Voltage drop problem. So I checked my wiring harness in search of pin A16. I followed the jumper harness from pin a16 from the stock wiring harness and that landed at B5. Problem is, there is no wire on my stock integra wiring harness for B5 (altc for obd0 ecu) so I have to w dear if there is a difference between an Obd0 and obd1 alternator even though they plug right up. I seem to be missing a wire. I’m pretty sure I have obd1 alternator. The ELD is disabled bc my wideband is going to pin D10. I have to wonder if that is the only control to measure the electrical load in the car
Might be why I don’t have pin B5 for altc. If anyone is familiar and wants to help please by all means post some suggestions.
anymore updates with this? engine still running? how much power did the T25 put out etc etc etc, my cousin is going to be doing a b20b (low comp) turbo setup but we are using a Gtir t-28 that i gave him.
I haven’t got around to putting it on the dyno yet. I bought a house and was doing more work on my CRX. However, the Integra is still running strong and a pleasure to drive. All we have used so far is virtual dyno to get an estimate of where the power is. I have attached the photo in a post above. The T25 is a blast on this motor at only 5.5psi. I’m sure it will be plenty at 10-12psi. The T28 will make more power and spool up great. I’m going to move back up to a GT28 after I get my car painted. It all depends on what you want to do with the car. This is my daily driver/spirited driving car so I didn’t want a whole lot of power and I’m using a log style turbo manifold with a/c and p/s. I still haven’t wired in my boost controller to hondata. I was going to do all that at the dyno.
