My Auto to Manual write up.

auto to manual 1990-1993 integra
DA, DB1

parts list:
manual tranny
manual floor pedals
intake manifold and gasket
guage cluster
shift linkage, rod and knob
clutch - should include alignment tool and stuff :slight_smile:
flywheel
manual ecu. i have a 90 with a 91 ecu, no cel if u have a 92 93 integra a 90 or 91 ecu wont work
center console
manual starter
ebrake cover
various nuts bolts washers and stuff
clutch cable
manual radiator ( i have a auto one with pulgs on the bottom )
LOTS OF GOOD TOOLS. get a air hammer for the linkage pin for the shift linkage :wink:
MANUAL ITERMIDIATE SHAFT.
auto and manual cv shafts are the same
and i highly recommend buying the innovative auto to manual conversion mount to make things easier otherwise u will go threw bs using the factory manual mount ( tranny side… duh)
i think thats it :slight_smile: hopefully

ok so ill start by saying do not do this. as clean as the swaps come it will never truly be a manual car, and it will cost u a load of money. it costed me over 600 dollars even with the donor car i made my money back from. i paid 600 cuz i did it right with brand new stuff. and im 17 with only half a year of mechanical experience so dont be a wuss. and dont skimp this project etheir or ull get screwed in the end
no im not gonna be walking u threw dropping the tranny and all that but heres the jist of it.

floor pedals:

before u attempt this headaching part of the project keep in mind u WILL have to remove ur steering column, wether u want to or not. and no do not remove the dash its unnessary
just start by unplugging the stuff from the steering cloulmn and unbolt the main bolts holding in the coulmn. then once u mess with this plastic thingy near the brake pedal and get that out of the way u can get the 12 mm bolt out holding the steering coulmn intact at the end. MARK BEFORE U REMOVE IT FOR EASIER INTALLATION
yes u have to remove 2 heating ducts. becareful not to break anything. if its not coming out its not for a reason.
that little ecu looking box is for controling the auto, take it out and toss it. u dont need it, plus it blocks u from continuing
getting the thottle cable and brake booster thingy off the pedal assembly is pretty stright forward. then theres a bunch of nuts holding the assembly in. about 6? get them off and unplug a few things and pop it out.
you have to drill a 1 and 3/4 size hole in the fire wall for the clutch cable. match up the manual floor pedals to the fire wall and mark were u need to drill. use sand paper around the hole.
intalling it all, make sure u put the main duct back in before u put the manual pedals back in. if u kno how to take it apart u better be able to put it back together. so get on mounting them pedals in now.
oh and neither of the 2 clutch switch thingys on the top of the pedals dont matter. i just took them out cuz they got in the way
hopefully everything is back in. because that was the hardest part lol

tranny:

ok by now u should have dropped the tranny or pulled the motor depending on your choice. (i pulled it because i wanted replaced the auto intake manifold and axles and stuff so i was like screw it) ( yes auto intake manifolds are diferent because of egr. if u dont want cel swap them)

ok u should have MANUAL flywheel bolts.
car manual
new pilot bearing and throw out bearing
new clutch and flywheel. (recommended)
high melting point greese for the shaft splines
and some knoledge on trannys lol

when u remove tourque converter and put the flywheel on make sure u line up the fly wheel with that small hole on the crank with the hole on ur flywheel.
tourque them 87 ft pounds i belive. do it in steps and crossed patterns to prevent woarping go up 27 ft lbs each time remeber to replace the piolet bearing
its helpful to have someone hold the clutch alignment tool while doing the clutch so u get it right.
bolt the clutch plate on cross wise as well.
replace the throw out bearing in the tranny.
ok put that man trans in and remember to grease up the trannys shaft splines.
remeber to change the auto intermidiate shaft with the manual one!!!

shift linkage:
do not damage the plugs on the auto shifter.
once u drop all of that auto junk in the center of the car
u should see two holes. a long oval one and a round one thats big.
ur choice if u want to cover up the long oval one.
u need to drill 2 holes for the shift linkage. and there should be indications right behind the last 2 holes were the auto lever bolts up too
u should just get the linkage on the tranny first so u can be sure were to drill.
if u get sloppy with ur holes just use washers
have fun with the linkage pin :slight_smile:
i had someone hold the top of the bolt with vice grips while i tighted the nut at the bottom for the linkage

wiring:

ok this is alot easier then it seems
there is a plug with 2 fat black, white wires. u need to cut those and hook them up together. soder or crimp. throw a kill switch in there maybe and hide it :wink:
without doing this the car wont start

to remove ur key out of the ignition u have to ground the green and white wire in the 12 pin connector

reverse lights. get wiring from the green wire on the tranny to the green and black wire in the 12 pin plug.
and then yellow wire from the tranny to the yellow one in the 12 pin plug

other:

gauge cluster is easy just make sure u get all the screws out of the center peice of the dash. there are 2 hidden ones behind the heat knobs.
and just feed the speedo cable threw the fire wall and its easy to pull it out. no need to remove the steering wheel

i dont run cruise control so i have nothing on that lol

if u do the intake manifold its easy to get overwhelmed but just remember how everything goes.
the difference is the egr valve and there is a sensor or something thats different between 1990 and 1991 so if u use the same year manual ecu with manual intake manifold u should have no cel.
that black box in on the fire wall can be removed because thats all egr stuff.

ok so the mount for the tranny.
if u do use the factory manual mount u will have to shim the plate on the tranny and maybe the mount as well. use longer bolts if u do. be prepared to see a crooked motor when ur done
best bet is to get the auto to manual conversion mount and it should line up stright
DONT TAKE SHORT CUTS HERE unless u want ur axles to pop out or mess ur tranny up and stuff.

so in the end just be confident and do everything right the first time. and it should work fine :slight_smile:

ill do pics too!

How long did it take you?