My Electrical Nightmare, explanation and videos, need help please

For starters; 92 GS with JDM B18C (Type R) swap with S80 transmission and a chipped P28 ECU. Bought it about a month ago, put it up on 4 stands, stripped everything, did energy suspension bushings and everything, during this time I occasionally started the vehicle with no problems to let it warm up etc.

Now just put it back on the ground 2 days ago, reassembled most of the interior, put the cluster back in properly and drove it up and down my driveway to test to make sure the speedometer was working, all good, so I put the center console, and the bezel back on, and all of the sudden all hell broke lose… the car would no longer start and is making all kinds of weird noises. So i had to tow it back up my driveway with my other DA :rockon: so I could push it back into my garage and go to work.

Now since that I have put roughly 12 hours into hunting for the culprit of this elusive electrical nightmare. I have since ripped apart my entire dash again, cluster, bezel, heater controls, center console, all has been removed again. It seems as if something is shorting out because my battery is always dead, it will not let me turn anything on, not even the dome light unless it is hooked up to a battery charger. Weird part is when I have the battery charger on I cannot hear where the wire is shorting out, even when I set the charger to 12amp charge I still cannot hear a wire shorting out anywhere…

With the battery charger hooked up I can get some things to work like the lights, but I can’t get the fuel pump to kick on, which is retarded because it was just working… And no there is no fuel pump kill switch on the car. And when I try to start the car there is a shit load of clicking and such like a bad ground tripping out. See this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14HtHPj7NcY

Also my RPM gauge seems to be functioning as a voltage gauge right now lol when I have the battery charger on and turn the key to on and turn on any lights or use the horn the RPM gauge jumps… videos:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp_dr9eOgKA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1doL_YKdrA

Since the videos I have taken apart the fuse box and taken off the ICU, I have popped the cover off and everything looks normal inside.

Other mentionable things:
With the battery charger hooked up I turned on the wipers and the RPM gauge jumped like the other videos but there was also a lot of clicking coming from the dash, sounding just like in the video when I try to start the car.

I have checked, double checked, and triple checked all my fuses in my driver fuse box and under the hood fuse box, and they ARE ALL GOOD. Initially the 15amp fuse for the interior light/clock/cigarette lighter was blown but I replaced it and it has not blown again since…

Any thoughts on how I can fix this issue would be greatly appreciated as I am quickly running out of ideas as to what the fuck has gone wrong here…

i recently had a similar problem. the clicking was the relay, and the problem was a bad ignitor that shorted something somewhere.

bad ignitor inside your distributor?

more evidence has been uncovered…

if you listen carefully in this video you can hear what sounds exactly like a wire shorting out to ground somewhere in the main harness near where it goes through the firewall…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2pWde1CTDI

this video shows how turning on my wipers makes my MFR click like crazy… weird right?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eecRTkmFDTE

this video shows after i cleaned my ignition switch i get these results, but i have tried 2 different MFR’s both with the same results…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHkEUty6ZM0

jesus christ. youve got a mess on your hands.

if it was me, i would pull the whole harness and check for any worn spots, doing a swap can be hell on wires that havent moved in 20 years. i am experiencing this with my car now. and every time i move a wire loom, all the crackling makes me nervous.

ya thats what i started to do now, until i discovered this…

the noise i have been hearing that sounded like something shorting out has been coming from my ICU all along! heres the interesting parts…

with the key turned to ON there is constant buzzing coming from the ICU and my RPMs are reading around 3000 rpm for some reason, when I pop the ICU out of the back of the fusebox the buzzing stops. BUT the RPMs stay at around 3000, when the key is turned to off the RPMs drop to 0. so I tried a different ICU… same results.

So i’m thinking my actual fusebox assembly has shorted out internally somehow and that is whats killing my battery and also what is mixing up all my other stuff like the wipers clicking the MFR relay and etc.

what do you guys think is that possible?

its the one place where a bunch of shit goes through, i wouldnt be surprised if it was the culprit.

Hahahaha you guys don’t even want to know what the solution is lmao I’ll let Opo explain :slight_smile:

LOL GUYS IT WAS MY BATTERY!!!

apparently it had deformed and was giving things improper voltages/being a general fuckwad.

everyone point and laugh at me for disassembling almost my entire interior looking for a problem that didn’t exist :smiley:

[QUOTE=Opo;2141935]LOL GUYS IT WAS MY BATTERY!!!

apparently it had deformed and was giving things improper voltages/being a general fuckwad.

everyone point and laugh at me for disassembling almost my entire interior looking for a problem that didn’t exist :D[/QUOTE]

its ok

i did something similar at my job today that ended up costing the company a couple thousand dollars

oops

Just for closure - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wQFEH-X6VFg

Turn signals not working

wrong post