those rally armor mud flaps! are they model specific? i did a quick search and they dont seem to make them for the da. did you just buy a set made for a different car and make them work?
Yeah they are just the rally armor basics and I just cut them shorter and skinnier. The only reason I got them is because the oem guards wear down way to quick.
thanks man, they look awesome
thanks man just be sure not to make they to close to the ground or they will scrap like crazy. i learned that the hard way.
does anyone in the socal area know a good place were i can get my cf hood and trunk recleared? mine is starting to fade and ive been buffering it and waxing it and no matter what i do it always stays slightly faded. or if anyone has any techniques to get rid of the fading that would be great.
Hey guys not to sure if anyone is reading my thread anymore but Iâm looking in the market to getting a new motor, well I was thinking of getting the xsi complete swap over. I was just concerned if I will be unhappy with the motor. Or would it be better to get a type r motor? I just would like to know what would be the best bang for your buck motor. Thanks guys
if i were you, i would go for a mild turbo setup (250whp) on your ls or go with a nice all motor b18c1. just sayin haha
I would go with either a typeR or gsr engine if youâve got the extra money. Take the time to take the engine apart and replace seals/gaskets while itâs out of the car before dumping it in. Oh, and make sure you get a short geared tranny as well.
The b16 is an excellent engine⌠but itâs quite limited in our chassis since weâre heavier.
If I had the choice of either. I would go with the type R. Cable to hydro.
Heres a few pictures I snapped of the teg today. I also installed my hidâs that I ordered from passwordjdm. they are 5k and they are awesome, money well spent
Iâm feelin it man.
Thanks alot! Really means alot to me when I get compliments on this thing! so glad i didnt sell it!
The clear on your hood is gel-coat like a boat. Car wax can actually make it worse. You could use some rubbing compound for boats and then some wax.
See what that does for ya. If that doesnât do the trick, then drop it off and have it cleared and have them cut and buff it. You will be able to care for it
like the rest of your paint.
Looking good by the way. Keep up the good work.
Thanks alot thats what i was thinking would be best for the hood and trunk is to just get them cleared. i had a shop quote me 250 to reclear it. so i think im gona go ahead and get that taken care of.
Automotive clearcoat will have a tendency to want to peel off⌠As said, itâs a polyester/epoxy resin (not clear gelcoat). Re-coating it with another material is a 50/50 shot.
Sanding and buffing the hood as-is is always an ideaâŚ
Here is a ViS hood my brother bought for dirt-cheap, the previous owner figured it was a lost cause⌠after sanding and buffing, tah-da!
Marine wax, auto wax⌠doesnât matter⌠But Id recomend just keeping it clean with routine polishing, versus clearcoating it.
hey, that looks great! very inspirational
To unified what grit sand paper did you guys use on that hood, and what kind of buffing compounds. Defiantly going to have to try that out.
I believe it was like 500/800/1000 on a hand orbital/DA sander. Then buffed with 3M Super Duty (very aggressive) compound, then Meguires Diamond Cut polish/compound.
Epoxy resin is very hard compared to automotive clearcoat. Youâd never want to take 500 gritt on a DA to a regular body panel.
Wow no wonder when I wet sanded it didnât do to much. I was wetsanding with a 2000 grit