Hello everyone, i just got done building my LS/Vtec setup a couple weeks ago and i am very dissapointed.
Maybe i someone can give me some ideas to help me…i raced a GSR with I/H/E, and he beat me… …I have an b18 block decked a little w/ oversized CTR pistons, Eagle Rods, B16 head shaved a little, making around 12:3:1 CR. I also have a JDM B16 YS1 tranny, AEM CAI, AEM fuel rail, DC sports 4-1 1 piece header, test pipe instead of cat, but the rest of the exhaust is stock. I also have a JDM PR3 ecu with mugen style racing chip. I run 92 octane fuel and NOS octane booster (up to 7 points). Why is the almost stock GSR killing me, he was really walking away from me. My car feels strong and does not lug or feel like its loosing power at all. Am i expecting too much???
Damn… Your compression ratio is freakin high… I dont think its streetable… Try race gas…
Stock P72 GSR or B16 cams I assume? You need some bigger cams to take advantage of your CR. Also, the Mugen program is not very friendly w/ a 4400RPM VTEC x-over, that needs to be higher no matter what cams you’re using. And finally you would benefit from some dyno time.
Well looking at your setup you’ve done a good job! However, I think that compression ration is a bit high. Try using 104 octane booster, it’s worked better for guys around I know. Secondly, get rid of the mugen spec chip and get it re-chipped for your car. As well, go out and get some adjustable cam gears to do some tweaking. Don’t know if you’ve already done so, but if you haven’t got your car tuned yet, I highly recommend you do so to take full advantaage of the stuff that you got.
well what’s the length of the rods?
stroke of the crank?
piston dome displacement?
what kinda gasket are you using?
those questions play a role importantly in compression ratio…for example my setup is a b17a1 crank with eagle LS length rods with je 11.5:1 oversized pistons and the b16a1 head’s blast chamber is spot faced and using the original 3 layer head gasket produces around 11.39:1 CR (btw this is for a crvtec setup)
slow eh? revise on your setups and try to improve
Judging by your setup, your car should be pretty quick. I’m not sure how the race went (as in during the race, when does he pull on you and all), sometimes it’s up to the driver too. Maybe you didn’t get good traction? What else did you do to the bottom end? Many factors can affect the outcome.
I am using stock B16a2 cams, and as for the bottom end, just stock stroke (polished and mic’ed) B18a crank with Eagle Rods (stock length), Oversized 81.25mm CTR pistons (B16B) which have an 8.63cc dome displacement per piston i believe, using OEM 3 layer head gasket, and Type-R oil pump. I havent gotten it tuned yet at a dyno, cuz i am planning on getting a better ignition system and bigger injectors first.
Well on the race, we were about equal on take off but once we got going he started pulling away pretty quick. He is one of my buddies so i know hes not squeezing or turbo’ed.
I used the Compression Calculator to get an estimate CR and without telling it that the deck was decked and head resurfaced it said it was around 12:4:1.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/compcalc/compcalc.php
nice set up… is your engine pinging? if not you car is in need up a dyno tune… i suggest not driving your car until u get a vafc w/ a fpr at the very least or get a hondata… my car wz feeling the same way, it was running very lean (really bad for your motor) until i hit the dyno i picked up 35whp… your suppose to literraly destroy that gsr… i’m beating type r’s by like 4 car lengths
$h*t man, thats hella good, its not pinging cuz i retarded the distributor just enough so it doesnt. I run supreme (92octane) with the octane booster which is supposed to add like 7 points, but maybe in a month or so ill have enough money to get a VAFC, FPR and bigger injectors, until then ill drive like a grandma. then ill hit the dyno.
Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated too.
Anyone know of any good dynos in oregon? i live in salem.
Also does anyone know what i would have to do to make OBD-1 injectors work with our ODB-0 system?
And what ECU chip would work good for the setup i have? Where Would i get it?
o.k. first thing to clear up…that nice 7 points of added octane will get you from 92.0 to 92.7 and the main additive in that bottle of octane boost is toulene which is basically a paint thinner. If you read in the fine print you will see that an octane rating has 10 points and that $7-$10 bottle is not raising you a full octane. Other than that I think your stock exhaust might be hurting you. I have messed around with vtec settings and with b16 a1 cams 4100 or 4200 is just nice…4400 should be great with the sir2 cams. the vtec setting is not affecting the race outcome. Sure it might affect your full curve dyno graph, but if your launching hard and getting some spin you should be close or already in vtec by the time you grab, and after that you redline to 8k or more you shift and go back to 6k, which is no were near vtec x-over. Sure it makes a great topic on a dyno graph and a great excuse for loosing but in drag racing, with your setup vtec x-over makes little diffrence. Mine while drag racing doesn’t ever go under 5k. I dunno about you but I don’t race many people from 1k rpm to 9 k rpm in 3rd gear, I prefer to keep the motor in the power band between 5500 and 8700 rpm. You need to keep reading your plugs and if you do not at least have a fpr get one asap. I tell you this because I have ls vtec bored .20 over lower compression and I am running between 55-60 psi of fuel and it is not keepingup. I have sir 1 cams, full out race port with aem intake, dc 4-1 jdm header w 2.5 collector and full exhaust.
damn does it really only add that little octane, that sucks! :mad:
does any one else have any other suggestions?
if you need some help with your set up, let me know, i’m in portland and i also chip ecu’s
Hey i’d be happy to go up there, but my money is kinda tight right now cuz my teg just got broken into yesterday morning! THOSE FUKN B$%!#D$!!! Where are you located, i can be up there in a couple weeks? Do u have a dyno? What kind of ECU chips?
the main thing holding your car back from being faster IMO is the fact that you have an ecu setup that was in no way intended for your motor. for that matter nothing is. the solution is to have an EMS such as hondata tuned specific to your motor.
that and I think OBD1 conversion would help a great deal.
Is there any chip out there that would do me any good? If not, has anyone dealt with hondata, if so could u point me in the right direction?
ITR, CTR, skunk2 stage 1 or toda or ef-1 cams, adj cam gears and about 2 hrs of tuning with a vafc are needed.