yes that is the main benefit if you ONLY replace the linkage. I also installed mine with the ITR shifter. If you get the ITR dual bent shifter like I did, you will have the best short shifter, with OEM quality. Seriously, you need to drive a car with one.
no it doesnt. What this will do is give you that “gated” feel like a Ferrari when you put it into gear. You will still have the slop, i.e. when it is in gear, the shifter still moves around. A new/lightly used linkage will fix that problem. I would HIGHLY recommend you get Prothane bushings and not ES. ES bushings suck monkey balls. Might as well just get an OEM bushings. They suck!
yes there will be a benefit. You will get rid of the sloppy feel of the shifter. The only problem you will run into is that the DA shifter and DC shifter are different at the base, so you will need to grind down your DA shifter to use with the ITR linkage.
yea. i forgot the thing about the shifters. nice write up… and when u are refearing to es bushings are u refearing to energy suspension bushings. cause thos are poly bushings… and i can vouch first hand that they work wonders.
josh
Yes I was referring to Energy Suspension bushings. You may THINK they work wonders, but that is only because you had worn bushings. You never tried Prothane against ES, I can tell by your response. ES bushings are NOT 100% polyurethane. They have a rubber compound included in them to give you that OEM feel, and eliminate squeaks as much as possible at the same time. If people wanted OEM, they would have just bought OEM. If your in the market for performance bushings, you dont use OEM most of the time. Prothane uses 100% polyurethane and its a BIG, BIG difference. Working for Honda in my past has giving me the opportunity to get to know high up people in both ES and Prothane. The designer of the Prothane bushings gave me a complete kit for free to test against his ES counterpart, and let me tell you, the Prothane kit is far superior to ES bushings. Much stiffer, and personally, I have seen better quality. Even Scott (FAMILYG2) who was my co-worker went with full Prothane. If you dont care about performance, then you just by OEM. If you really want a performance bushing, you go with Prothane, not ES just because everyone else does. You dont use Pennzoil just because the average idiot uses it right? You use Mobile1. Same scenario.
Yes ES is a good bushing, but seriously, if you want a true performance bushings (especially track car setups) try Prothane. If you want to just replace your worn bushings, and just drive your car normally, then go with ES. Its much softer, and easier to work with.
Wow, use the whole ITR linkage and shifter, huh? Should I contact my local Acura Stealership or…? Awhile ago I was semi involved with an ITR swap into a civic and I thought the ITR was cable shifted. Granted, I was not involved in that part of the build, and I was not even into Hondas at the time so my memory is vague.
Agreed, Knowledge has a bitchen interior. I loved the pic looking up at the seat from the shifter.
No, the ITR’s are linkage shifted just like the DA’s, not cable shifted like Accords. And yes, you use the whole ITR linkage and shifter. You can buy this stuff new, but you will pay out of your ass for it. I worked for Honda, so I got my stuff cheap as hell. I would recommend calling a JDM supply shop, i.e. Inline Four, JHPUSA, PasswordJDM, etc. and get it used. Hope that helps.
no i know the diffrence between new oem bushing and the es bushings… i installed new ones and two weeks later i got the es bushings. the first week my shifter was so tight i loved it. and i still love um. loosed up a bit tho from the wear but still tight. and acording to ur response i either got a really good set or they wernt es bushings. the diffrence between the bushings were like night and day. i didnt have worn bushings to begin with so i can vouch for these. i havnt tested nor even heard of prothane untill u mentioed it so i cant speak for there product. but i will stick with my energy suspension shift bushings… also before i installed my bushings i did a compareison on softness and hardness. the es bushings were by far superior in every way… wouldnt budge. i would know i had to have a buddie come over to hold the shift linkage while i tried to push it in by hand and a flathead.
josh
My brother works in the parts department at one of the local Honda stealerships. Is that good enough to get them as cheap as you described getting them?
Slinky, dont get me wrong. Yes, ES bushings are a nice upgrade, but I look at them from a different point of view then yourself. You are looking at them from an OEM bushing to a performance bushing, and that is perfectly fine. I also had mine “loosen up” on me which I was pissed about. I just look at them from a performance bushing to a performance bushing. Im a person that was going to be using spherical bearings for my radius rods as well as using spherical bearings for my sway bar linkage. So I never look at them compared to an OEM bushing at all. I compare them to other known performance bushings or spherical bearing setups. Yes, the ES vs. OEM is going to be night and day, but the prothane vs. ES is also night and day. Prothane almost feels like hard plastic. ES bushings are actually fairly soft. I put my ES bushings on my shift linkage by myself. It wasnt hard really, but to put the Prothane bushings on, I had Duy (Archon) holding the linkage, and Luis (kb8thekid) and myself trying to pry the bushing in. It was one hell of a bitch. But anyway, both choices, ES or Prothane, will both be good choices, but I highly recommend Prothane to all my friends.
Well it all depends how their employee discounts work in that store. In my case, I get everything at 10% over cost.
What Im questioning in your case is if your brother works for a dealership, then why do you still call it a “stealership”? Employees get great pricing, and you will never beat that, so Im suprised that you would be making that remark if youre getting such a great discount (Honda parts markup is roughly 40%-85%)
Get pricing from your brother at regular cost, and at his discount, and you will see the big difference in price.
He gets really good discounts. I jokingly refer to all dealerships as Stealerships. Like when I paid $60 each for Toyota Supra motor mounts(another project) when I could have gone elsewhere and gotten them cheaper. My quest at the time was the OEM quality, but that is just rediculous.
You guys don’t knowme but this is my first Honda/Acura. I’ve not ever actually owned a 4 cylinder before. I’m 30 years old, have a huge SUV, two homes, two kids and a wife. This Teg was purchased very cheaply by my brother and I to build me a quick daily driver and to help showcase our business, River City Speed. My other car is a Skyline GT-R powered, '71 Datsun 240Z.
Preston, Two more things… You’ve sold me on the Prothane bushings. What do I order, ITR or DA parts? Second, did you pay less than 4SD4DR posted above? You’ve been a great help, thanks.
Im a firm believer in OEM parts. Even though they are more expensive, I feel that you replace lower quality/aftermarket parts more often, hense costing you more in the long run. I can talk all day about OEM parts, but Im going to stop there since Im just rambling.
As for the parts, for the linkage bushings, just order DA parts. They fit all 90-01 integras. As for the question about what I paid for my parts from Honda, yes I paid less. Acuraparts247 offers parts at wholesale cost, so there still is about a 25% markup. So getting them from your brother will probably save you another 15% off those prices. Just buy any DC2 linkage, but I would recommend buying the ITR shifter to go with it. 4sd4dr didnt buy the stabilizer bar, but personally (and this is only a recommendation) I would say to purchase everything, both linkages and the ITR shifter, as well as all the new washers, etc. Dont forget, you CAN find these from JDM importers for around $150 used (you ONLY want a used ITR/JDM ITR complete linkage with shifter. The JDM ITR linkage is the ONLY one that is zinc plated.)
Hope that helps, and hey, post of pics of that 71 Datsun!!!
Hey thanks. I just got off the phone with my brother.
#Z00 is $49.40 #R00 is $40.46 #G00 is $68.60
I just listed the last numbers since I didn’t feel like writing the whole PN’s out.
So still only about $150 for all new. Not a bad deal. He’s going to check on the stabilizer bar.
The motor is out of the 240Z right now, I’m having the block bored for a fresh set of Wiseco’s and billet rods. I have plenty of pics of the motor on the stand before it was torn down. I posted a few pics of it on nonvtec.com.
Make sure you do not forget all the washers/bolts that dont cross reference with your current DA setup. I know its time consuming, but you need to go through both the DA and DC parts page, and cross reference that the bolts you have on your DA linkage will work with the ITR linkage. Although most of the part is the same, it is slightly different, so bolt lengths, etc. may be different. Make sure you check this.
Ok, I have a B18a1 w/ B16 Non LSD Tranny… I just bought the ES Bushings off of Ebay… Now, I’m looking into getting either a ITR or a reg DC2 Shift Linkage… I was reading all the postings and was really confused… I wanna buy the stuff I need and have a heads up on all the possible things that can happen??? Even thou the Item Description says for 94&up integras or 92-95 B series Civics… Can I just buy that one (GSR) and slap that baby in my DA with No Mods whatsoever??? Or will I have to grind something off the linkage??? ITR S.S OEM is what to go with, right? I will be picking one of those up aswell… So, DC2(GSR) Shift Linkage w/ ITR Shifter will work together to give me that nice smooth shift??? I’m thinking of getting that setup for my 93 DA Teg W/ Stock motor… (B18A1)… Let me know what’s up with this setup, and if I might of missed the posting… Besides, people have different setups on their DA’s… I’m just a selfish bastard… Lol… Sorry for that… I’m just a lil slow here… k…
Yes, you can get any 94-01 Integra shift rod, and match that up with a ITR shifter and your DA stabilizer bar. I dont recommend this since your DA parts are really old. I think you should get an ITR shift rod, G3 stabilzer bar, and ITR shifter. I really think you will love this mod. I dont know one person that I recommended it to that didnt love it.
The ITR shifter has a wider pivot point. The point which mounts to the shfit linkage, so I dont think you can use it with the stock g2 or g3 linkages.
However, the stabilizer bar is the same for all G3 integras, the change rod (one thats held on with the bitch pin…) is different between the generation 2 nad 3 integras. of integra
Blah, I guess no one could shed any light on why the heck my used, (bought from a honda-tech member on a whim) itr linkage bolted up giving my oem gsr shifter such a weird stance…:stare:
