my pic review on megan racing strut bars and tie bars

i got these brand new combo set off ebay for 155 shipped, they had polish blue grey red, i had the grey , it says on the box fit 90 all the way up to 2001.

there is no issue with the rear upper bar and tie bar, but for the front i had to take off the air controll valve, which located on the intake mani, its a metal round piece bolts on the intake mani, other tham that there is no issue fiting it

for the front lower tie bar, i installed the bar while the car was on stands, i think once the car is off on the ground , the bar got stretched . it rubed on the tranny, also i had anther problem with it here is the link to it

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2643593

and i think if if re-install it with the car on the ground these all will go away , but front lower tie bar was just hanging too low for me , i wouldnt runing with that.

overall i never regret, cuz the quality and the price lesser than 40 bucks a piece. conering i cant say, cuz i installed the barz and lowering springs together, i cant say who does the job , but my car handles great, i corner it 40 mph i feel nothing.




Oh HELL NO! The front tie bar looks like an accident waiting to happen if it was on my car. I’m lowered on 14’s. Other than that… the rest looks alright.

Thanks for the reviews… I was looking at the very exact same thing on ebay.

oh , yeah. thats why i took it off already. haha.

Coke depends how you drive man, i have the same bars for rear top and bottom. But i didnt face it like that how u did in the rear to me thats wrong or at leasts it get in the way more.

Anyway the front and tie bar are not megan becoz idiot ran out. But i been using all 4 bars no problem. As far as rubbing ur tranny tip i just grind into it a lil to give room clearance. I am much lower than you and that tennis ball probably hit if u throw it under. i would say a good 3 1/4 inch clearance for me as i am 1.8 inch drop.

I been driving with it on for 4 yrs. Only 2 times of 4 yrs i hit dead animal or lil stuff on ground while driving and not seeing at night and all it does it put it back an angle of 1 inch if not less. when i get home i pressure blast it and then jackstand it and adjust it back.

I am planning to go homedepot and buy 1 inch solid metal bars and fabricate my own using the megan bracket or some sort. Believe the more solid it is the beter in corner no flexing of the bars PERIOD.

the megan or cheap ebay no names are hollow inside the center as u can see. But will work better then not having it. and i got mines 4yrs ago on ebay $89 shipped wow u got $155

edit: My rear lower tiebar gap from bar to swaybar is 12mm-14mm apart only as i have upgraded anti swaybar too…
Also the front upper bar if use washes you may be able to clear enough just to pass from removing anything from intake manifold as thats what i did.

For me the rubbing sound was the tranny tip was too close or rubbing the bar in the lower front or if after u hit something it moves the angle. grind down that spot or tranny spot. its just dead weight.

and damn u have too much clearance on that bar coz on my lower front tiebar its only 1 inch away from the header downpipe. urs hella far thats bad but for mines being close it act as a brace shield to not bend my downpipe if i hit hard.

Shoot my car was stolen before with this bar on and at the impound they fucking use my lowertie bar to sit on bricks as it was missing tires.

better yet here are 2 photos i just took with my nokia sorry for darkness but u see what i mean closer and more tight then urs.

i never have problems rubbing going over speedbumps normal.

u may corner better than without and also on those shitty falken 512ez or whatever it worthless as i know it is coz i own them before. I know how the pattern looks trust me u will agree too it is lmao.

i have full poly black bushing 19in anti sway bars tokico 5 way adjustables on H&R 1.8inch drop and with those tire its bullshit. I mean it will grip but dont expect better. I even had skunk2 500lbs springs coilover all around on my last set before H&R. the skunk2 helped a lil but if u have onl the bars and lower with those shit tires ur cornering isnt much better then me…

damn 89 is a cheap price. megan barz are 50 60 shipped a piece now dayz.

so far, these bar works good for me, i dont corner the car very hard for now, i might drift it after couple year, see how they holds up then.

[QUOTE=coke;2077081]

i might drift it after couple year, see how they holds up then.[/QUOTE]

???:crazy:

the megan site says the front strut bar fits all models of the 90-01 teg. does it fit the 93 GS cause I know some strut bars won’t clear the ABS module or something like that.

i dont think it will fit abs, thats what they told me

:slight_smile: i am not crazy, i thinks front wheels can drift to , it all depending on the driver

check out this video,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuWjSjJ_Ofw

[QUOTE=///Nick;2086744]check out this video,

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TuWjSjJ_Ofw[/QUOTE]

holy shit, mad skill, thats what? 2nd or 3th gear, all the way, using hand brake and steering .

how he drives reminds me go kart

i think thats from drift tengoko

That’s not drifting :umno:

why?

Air Control Valve

Hi Coke,

By taking out the Air control valve…it doesn’t affect the car in anyway?

I too have a clearence problem with the metal thingy and I wasn’t sure if it had to be there.

Do you just unscrew it? Is there anything else you have to it or just remove it and that it?

Thanks

Just making sure I dont f*** anything up?

it didnt change anything,
i left the metal arm with the throttle spring

unscrew the bolts , and there is a lil plastic clip on the metal arm conects the stick to the valve, use a screw driver to unclip it.

took me couple mins really easy

Thanks man,

If possible can you take a pic of that area?

thanks again

there you go

i have a rear lower. cheap, installed just fine