There is a thread to this problem…but nobody answered the poor guy.
My Problem: The shifts from first to second gear and vice versa is pretty notchy. Shifting to other gears are a little nothchinig also, but not as notchy as the first two gears.
My Shifter: Steel short shifter. I think it was homemade or something because there seems to be new threads made, NOT factory clean/precision.
Does anybody have this problem of a notchy shifter? Do you guys think it might just be the bushings? If not those, then bad shifter? Synchro?
just what exactly do mean be notchy?? if you can elaborate i may be able to help ya. do you mean it clicks or grinds into 2nd?? explain in detail and i’ll see what i can do.
I have the same “notchy” feeling in my shifter. Stock shifter, aftermarket shift knob.
I am going to try changing the manual tranny fluid and if that doesn’t help a bit, I may undertake the job of changing the bushings (I know mine are 11 years old, almost 99% sure they’re still original).
If anyone knows a definate problem why this happens to our shifters, please, speak up!
ok first thing to do is go out and get a new set of bushings for the linkage…especially if you can wiggle the shift knob back and forth in gear… it isn’t that hard to replace them…you’ll be able to do it with the car on a lift no prob… if that doesn’t work and it still grinds into second…as mine did… then change the enitre linkage system…they make some good ones aftermarket…or call acura to get the linkage and buy an aftermarket short shift kit… i did all that and it works nice now. if it still grings going in gear and u have the clutch PAST (to the floor)the clutch point when doing so… then your mesh/syncro’s are jacked and u need to either rebuild the tranny or in my opinion if u plan to run a turbo or NOS…then get an aftermarket tranny…note: if you have a VTEC… put in the LS tranny…they are great… let me know what you guys do and if it fixed the prob…peace…and remember emails are always welcome.
have that problem too before and after I installed my dcsport s.s. and just installed one of the new shifterbushing that comes with it ( the one near the shifter). Can’t find the right tool to put the one in front, the round one. Can anyone help me here kc10er?
well i feel like my right hand is getting a work out now when I drive my car afer I put the shortshifter. Even felt some muscle sore on my right arm after a couple of days of driving that sucker.
Does shortshifter makes your gearing stiffer? Or is it the bushing?
thx
if you are talking about the long metal bushing that the bolt runs through to hook up to the bottom of the shifter, to get it out, screwdriver and a hammer… and to get the new one in just tap it in place… now don’t forget that the grooves on that bushing’s exterior are there for a damn good reason… you will need to go out to an auto parts store or a hardware store and get 4 O-rings ok?? don’t forget that, just take the bushing to them and they will fit it with the right ones… and try not to roll them outta the grooves when installing it… that should help a lot… as for you arm/wrist getting sore… you are using muscles that are in your forearm to move the shifter now (cause it is all wrist movment…) as opposed to when you used your shoulder and arm to pull it back and forth… that will go away…it should also make the shifter a little tighter cause u don’t have as much leverage with the short shift to move the control linkage, as you did with a longer rod… oh and blackDB1, the whole linkage kit cost me about $350 plus tax here in cali… well worth it though.
I got that one alright, I’m talking about the one in front. Where theres one 12mm bolt that you cant put any rachet because of the crossmember being on the way, read the gsr don’t have em but ls do. Tried the anlged wrench already. Its the circular bushing that i’m having problem. thx for the suggestion.
ok i know what one you mean… now it was awhile ago when i put mine in, but, i believe i disconnected the linkage from the shifter, which let it sag… and gave me room to do that bushing… i don’t think i had it disconnected from the clutch, i may have though since i did do the whole thing…eaither way… try just disconnecting it from the shift rod and it kinda sags and u can swivel it a little bit to get to it… if that doesn’t work or u have tried it… then i must have had it off the clutch… now mine is an LS so i dunno if it is different for yours or not… if push comes to shove, most of our crossmembers are easily removed by taking out usually 4 bolts… so last resort try that… not recommended though if the car isn’t supported properly (ie. a lift), if it is just jacked up in the front you may find the frame twisting just enough to have a bitch of a time getting that crossmember back in… hope this helps a bit…if not, let me know and i will go put mine on a lift and see how i did it k?..
I may have to try the last resort. But I’m just using a new 2 1/2 ton aligator jack (which I think is a greeat deal for 29 bucks comes with 2 jack stands and made by craftsman from a discounted price from sears right now just sharing here;) ) so I’m afraid of having trouble of putting back that crossmember again. Does the crossmember supports anything heavy on top of that thing that a skinny as$ can’t lift? Because if it is I might just pass up that bushing. Is it really worth having that bushing in there?
well inspect the bushing and see if it is still ok… it might be, but if it is the factory bushing and you are running over 300HP to the wheels like me, or plan to, then i say replace it… or you will have a bitch of a time shifting smoothly. now to insure that you can get the crossmember back in… find another set of jack stands… make sure all four are the set to the EXACT same height…jack the front…stand it…jack the back…stand it… and do it that way… if the prob still exsists… then a whole new linkage is what ya need… i always say to do it right… or ya pay later… but then again you are talking to a guy that snaps $1,000 drive shafts every six months… but still, just do it all… remember as the saying goes… a chain is only as strong as it’s weakest link!!!
same prob.
I sometimes have to, from 1st to 2nd, let the car rev down, put it in neutral, and then, shuv it in 2nd. It’s a pain and is getting worse every time I drive it hard… don’t know… I’m kinda tired of putting $$$ in this car…
and to get the new one in just tap it in place… now don’t forget that the grooves on that bushing’s exterior are there for a damn good reason… you will need to go out to an auto parts store or a hardware store and get 4 O-rings ok?? don’t forget that, just take the bushing to them and they will fit it with the right ones… and try not to roll them outta the grooves when installing it… that should help a lot… as for you arm/wrist getting sore… you are using muscles that are in your forearm to move the shifter now (cause it is all wrist movment…) as opposed to when you used your shoulder and arm to pull it back and forth… that will go away…it should also make the shifter a little tighter cause u don’t have as much leverage with the short shift to move the control linkage, as you did with a longer rod… oh and blackDB1, the whole linkage kit cost me about $350 plus tax here in cali… well worth it though.