I’ve read the other thread and it gave me some ideas on how to do mine but with some, imo, much needed changes. I’ll be upgrade all my ground wires to bigger stuff (is 0 gauge overkill?) plus adding some bling/audio stuff in because I want to upgrade the existing stuff.
First off I’ll run through my parts list and people can comment, etc.
Tsunami 120amp circuit breaker
Tsunami Dist. block. (not sure how many outs I need I have 2 amps plus it needs to run to the fuse box and starter so I’m assuming 4?)
Tsunami Battery Clamps
Tsunami ANL fuse holder (will I need these for the amps if I have the circuit breaker?)
0 gauge wire from the dist block to battery, 0 gauge grounds.
4 gauge wire to the amps
Remote battery charging terminals mounted to the fire wall (unsure how these should be wired, any help?)
Sealed battery box in the trunk with vent tube
Optima Yellow Top
Think that covers it, give me any opinions on anything that should be changed.
Also all wiring will be quality stuff, either Monster or Street Wire. Not to mention grommet will be used when passing through the fire wall and all wires will be split loomed.
Then run the 1/0 cable from the batt, to the starter motor, install a 350A ANL fuse as close as possible to the batt., [but within 18"], run an 8ga from the starter to the engine bay fuse box, [batt. terminal].
Run a 1/0 ground cable from the batt, to the cars floor pan or frame rail, keep the ground as short as possible.
Run a 1/0 ground from the engine, [transaxle bracket] to the stock frame rail chassis ground point, [under batt. “box”].
Skip the distribution block and circuit breaker and run separate fused power leads from the batt. to the amps, again, use ANL fuses.
Ground both amps to the same ground point, but not the same one as the batt. ground.
Optima batt. are sealed and do not require a vent, although it couldn’t hurt.:)94
Is that a lot for the PWJDM battery box? $100+? Seems like a lot… I guess cuz it’s CF shrug Why not just get something similair made out of aluminum or whatever to save money…
[QUOTE=G2 Racer;1920767]Well, it’s the cost of the CF and the mark up so they can make money.
Sometimes you have to ask yourself what your time is worth.
Besides the above relocation I spec’d out would cost more then the PJDM box and battery.[/QUOTE]
Yeah I guess it saves a lot of time buying the PWJDM box OR if you have time to spare, just measure all the side peices out for the battery and take it to a weld shop and have them weld it for you… might save a little bit of money.
This is one of the most rediculous things I’ve ever heard. The stock battery location is in no way the most optimal spot for that much weight. Honda put it there because that’s where it fit. If you think Honda hired a whole team of engineers to design the optimal battery location in regard to weight distribution then you’re wildly mistaken.
Not only is the engine compartment not necessarily the best spot in the car, the spot chosen in our engine bay is far from the best spot in the engine bay as it sits nearly as far forward as possible.
99.99% of all cars sold will have the battery in the engine compartment - there are reasons for this. For example, safety, cleanliness and the fact that everyone is used to it being that way. Auto manufacturers just don’t put batteries all over the car, it’s just not done (with the exception of maybe some high end luxury or race vehicles, and hybrid or electric vehicles).
I’m not saying that you should relocate it for weight distribution reasons or that the trunk is the best spot either… Only that the stock location is far from ideal.
G2Racer - If you’re using an optima then you don’t need a battery box. They are sealed and won’t leak. I’ve been running Optimas inside of a couple of my vehicles for over 5yrs now and I’ve never had any problems, I know others with the exact same story.
I currently have an optima in the trunk of my DA but soon will be replacing it with a much smaller odyssey type battery. Not sure if it’ll remain in the trunk, come back to the engine compartment or possibly reside somewhere in the cabin of the car.
I like the location of the Password kit, but it’s expensive and everything carbon these days is just for bling :down: You can get a steel version from Summit for a fraction of the cost.
If you’re running a large audio system you may not want such a small battery though…
have you seen where the password kit mounts, if your car has abs the fat circle thing that connects to the abs is right where the kit mounts too. I have the kit (batt and tray thing) i havent put it on because i have abs, but as soon as i get rid of it ill post pics
