I went to work today at 3pm and 15 feet before the parking spot i was aiming for my “stock” '93ls with 115k shut down without warning. I immediately noticed i had no power steering, then realized my engine wasn’t running.
So i tried starting it again but it only turned over. It cranks, i have juice, no clicking, no dummy lights, nothing to really note other than it wont start. I’m trying to figure out what made it die so suddenly.
Guys at work said everything from a serpentine belt to a blown fuse. The belt is fine. I haven’t checked all the fuses yet but thats seems unlikely.
A couple hours after i got off work, i was able to get it towed home.
The tow truck driver said it sounds like a bad alternator. That makes sense but i’m wondering if it could be anything else.
The last 3-4 weeks i’ve noticed that sometimes it would take a second or two longer to start…but other times it would fire right up.
Could have the alternator suddenly went out while driving? Anything else i should check?
MFR (main fuel relay) possibly. You’ll need a helper for this, but to see if the fuel pump is running (if the MFR is doing it’s job), unscrew the fuel cap, have someone turn the key to ON (don’t crank the engine tho) and listen in the fuel “filler” (for lack of a better word lol). The fuel pump will only run until the beeping shuts off (you know when you turn the key to on it beeps 3-4 times), so thats why you need a helper (unless you think ur fast enough). Try this and let us know!
Thanks. I tested the fuel pump and it works fine. Kinda wished it didn’t so i could just get it fixed.
Reading through the FSM, I have some troubleshooting to do…
When i turn the ignition on, the MIL (aka: check engine light) comes on for 2 seconds then goes off. Thats not supposed to happen.
According to the manual, it says i need to do a series of tests involving the ECM/fuses/voltage. If thats OK, then onto a fuel pressure check (unless it resorts to the fuel pump), and lastly an ignition system check.
I’m hoping the ECM test will diagnose the problem.
I think your CEL is supposed to come on for 2 seconds then go off. That means your fuel system is pressurized. If it would stay on, then it means your fuel system isn’t pressurized, possible MFR.
I would check for spark if I were you, you might just need a coil and ignitor. Also, check to see if your timing belt hasn’t jumped time or broken.
I had the same situation last year. Turned out that I could check the igniter and feel sure it checked out OK. The coil also checked out within spec but it needed replacement. The mechanic I know showed me where on a spare coil the path of least resistance formed a oil-like sheen, dime sized, like oil in a puddle looking, on the bakelite case. Again, the resistance met spec, even had a glimmer of spark, but under load the spark would travel to the metal clamp bar inside the distributor causing it to short. Hope this helps.:auto:
When you say it’s not your belt, you mean you checked the timing belt? You took the vavle cover off and saw that the belt is ok? Pull on it to be sure.
When the belt goes you get the symptoms you speak of.
And even if it is not your T belt, when did you last change it?
Also the distributor is something to look at. Follow the book step by step and you’ll find it.
Let me count the ways… Oh, lets just round it off all 6 ways to tell if your belt is broken, 1- The distributor rotor doesn’t spin, 2-open the oil fill, you can “SEE” one of the cams the belt drives, 3-You could, I guess, remove the valve cover and see the big picture, 4- Oh hell, I’ll just take thse last three to the grave with me. Sheesh!!!:dunno:
According to Acura owner’s manual, the timing belt should be changed every 90,000 miles, or every 6 years, which ever comes first.
The water pump should be inspected at the same time, but usually people just change it as well since you already are working in the same area to get the belt changed.
So if your at 115000 miles, your overdue if it was never changed. Even if it is not the problem, you should look into changing it.
I got screwed on mine, I thought I heard the original owner say it was changed, but looking back he may have said it wasn’t. I realized that when it snapped getting onto the highway. Mine was at 110000 miles when it snapped.
Dear Mr. Rocket.:shrug:
Sir, I am humbly apologizing to you for the using the word “sheesh”. If it offended you, I’m terribly sorry. Next time I will try and be more specific to your needs. By the way how about an update?
Dear Mr. 93IntegraGS.:surrend:
Sir, I am waiting in a bar in St. Louis right now, halfway thru a pitcher. If you would like to use this forum for a personal debate while I’m nearing incapacitation, then I’m here for your needs. I’ve only been privy to this site for a little over a year so, maybe like others, I should be more blatant in my dissing and poking fun. If you want, I can just crawl back into my man-cave and not be of a help. Thanks again for taking what I was saying as a personal aside. Hey, beertender, can I get a pitcher to go, I need to take a shower.
No offense taken. You just sound like a smart ass…but a helpful one. :squint:
I had a friend crank the engine while i was looking at a cam through the oil fill…and the cam spun. So i guess it’s not the T-belt. I will change it regardless.
I could also hear the distributer “working” or rotating.
Tomorrow, during daylight, i’ll actually start working on it.
Mr. Rocket
So, I don’t think this should be a thread where we all can be someone elses dad or whatever. Sure I can be testy sometimes but look around this forum as a whole. Lots of dissing and shots taken, most by the moderators in my estimation. But enough of that. Someone loaded the whole FSM in PDF format for our use, cool! Check the section on troubleshooting the coil, cause I think its bad. Also try a shot of starting fluid, with the throttle body held open, and see if that eliminates the fuel system controls. Lastly, take your findings over to the electrical section and ask or search there. Lots of smart(ass) fellows on that side.
Mr 93gs
Lastly, I have yet to wreck any vehicle, whether having had a drink or not, that said, could happen today. Crap happens and I’ve already had a Dad and I am one, doesn’t make me God. Lets just say it this way. I was taught how to drink “beverage” from a state patrolman. I almost always have an open container. It takes about an hour and a half per 12 ounce can so you do the math on being under the influence. I just got done driving over a thousand miles, round trip, to replace the radiator hoses and therm on my daughter 87 Teg at her college. Back home in two days and 12 beverages later. I have been pulled over twice when “NOT DRINKING” by “good samaritans w/ cel phones” who have nothing better to do than pick on a “grey 4 door family sedan”. So, advice taken respectfully. My advice: have beverage and clean the bugs off your bumper. Sheeeeeeeeeesh.:stare:
Update:
Without knowing 100% that it was a bad coil/ignitor, i went ahead anyway and ordered a complete distributer from Distributer King on eBay for $134 shipped. Worst case scenario is i’d have a new distributer.
After the help from here and others, i was able to rule out some potential causes which eventually lead me to suspect the ignitor.
Well i received the new distributer today and just got done installing it. Guess what? My car fired up quicker than it ever has! Thanks for all the help…you too evtsteward. :-*
One thing though…i positioned/installed it as close as possible to the same spot as the old one. When it was idling, the new distributer didn’t sound very “healthy”. Lots of fast ticking sounds were happening. Can that be from the ignition timing…ie. the position of the distributer? If so, should i advance or retard it or try both?
