So when I bought my LS it didn’t even have a belt on it for a/c and I’m guessing the evaporation core?? is leaking also so I’m planning on just taking it all out, or as much as possible. I could swear I found a write up with pictures on here at one point but after 3 hours of searching I can’t find much of anything that’s helpful.
I’d like to disconnect all the correct wires and I can do a little tuck on them. Really I’m looking for someone who’s done it and can let me know those things you only learn from doing it. Very importantly I’m wondering if I’ll need freeze plugs or something like that? Can I get the evap core out w/o removing the actual ECU? Or should I get a Haynes manual and just take out the compressor and lines, w/e I can? Any help is welcomed and appreciated but please don’t ask why I’m taking it out or tell me to consider the heat since I haven’t owned a car with a/c in 4 years. Lol, It’s nothing new and just added weight at this point…and annoying my fiance since it drips on her feet whenever the a/c gets turned on…usually by her thinking it “might just work a little bit”:sipread:
this would be great!! i just bought a chiltons so i can replace my compressor so maybe i can shed light on this sooner than later
That would be awesome, still searching without finding anything…almost like I dreamed up the write-up and pics…lol.
Yeah I’d like to see a safe step by step removal, I want to remove it on my integra, because my other car has a/c and I’d like to actually make my engine bay look nice in my g2, plus it’s r12 and never been converted so I either have to pay 70$ a can or get it converted, and my heat doesn’t even turn on at this point it just makes this big vibrating noise …
I recently did this. I will have a write up posted within a couple weeks. Just super busy.
Well this wont be any pro write up, but a short hand off all necessary items to remove.
First off, take it to a shop and have them evac the refigerant from the lines if there is any left. You don’t want to have a neighbor catch you venting the r12 out into the air cause the EPA will be all over your ass, can cause burns on your skin and can make you go blind if it gets in your eyes. If the r12 is already empty, then it isn’t much of a concern.
There’s no fancy way needed to remove the ac assembly. Remove the condensor, the accumulator or receiver/dryer, compressor and bracket, all the lines that run around the bay. Unbolt the lines that meet at the firewall and accumulator. You can measure the thread pitch and everything and buy ac block off caps to cover them. The PROPER way to do it is to remove your ac box, and swap over to a standard box so your lines aren’t running into the bay anymore.
If you feel like pulling the dash, it’s not hard. Only a handful of bolts and a ton of panel screws and connectors & braces.
As far as wiring, its through out the body harness and bay harness. I’m not sure which wires are which because I don’t have air haha. Maybe someone can shed some light on the wiring. Don’t forget to take your fuse out of the panel, save some weight 
Just, for the love of God, wear safety glasses when you go to crack your first lines. Don’t be that guy.
Cheers,
Also,
I’m not sure what exactly you are referring to about freeze plugs. Freeze plugs are on the engine itself and are not associated with the AC system.
The ECU is right under the pass carpet and is held by 4 bolts. Not hard to remove. The biggest issue is getting that big hunk of an ac box out of the vehicle haha.
The AC box will come out without pulling the dash. It’s a squeeze, but it fits.
Yeah haha. It’s just easier not to fight with it, and since he was talking about the wiring it gives him more room to pull the looms apart.
Also, I would honestly recommend leaving the AC fan in in the engine bay, and jumping it to piggy back it off your coolant temp fan, double fan power :rockon:
I’m planning on doing it when I replace the core support since it will just be TONS easier and I finally have a manual even though it’s just a Haynes but better than nothing. So I know I can get the condenser down and outwith the car just on stands but what’s required to remove the box and where is it? Yeas I’ll find this out shortly the hard way but know ahead can’t hurt, and it’s not really covered in a Haynes manual. Now I know this is OT and I’m going to go search for my answers after this but…in order to replace the core support with a new one, should I put the car up on stands and lvl it off as much as possible, have it sit normally on level ground…add extra bracing like a strut tower brace to keep the clip from flexing? Or do I not need to worry about the clip itself flexing and throwing my whole front end so far outta whack it’s screwed?
Yeah my old man has got me worried about that problem but he also doesn’t know jack shit about cars other than oil and brake changes…
And Axe, if I piggy back the a/c fan with that cause any problems with fuses or overload anything? The car is also going to be turbo’d so I’m not sure if that’s a viable option at this point still lol.
It would be in your best interest to support the front uniframe. I tower brace would be simple and easy. However , you can make shift an adjustable support bar with a threaded ended tube and an adjustable threaded bar on one side. I’ve never made one, but I’m sure there are write-ups out there!
There may be an issue of loading circuits with running two fans. I know people have installed inline relays, but now that you mention going turbo…you probably wont have room for the second fan haha.
Yeah I’ve got the ac out and am still trying to figure out the front clip but after looking at the prices to boost my B18A to 300+ whp compared to a ITR swap…I’m getting an ITR swap and just doing a few things to it to add a bit of power…figuring I’ll replace the core support then when the engine’s out since i really don’t wanna try doing it with the engine in the car lol. and thank you all, and Axe I’ll definitely use a tower brace and try to put the subframe brace back on before I do it lol.