Whats up G2IC, I just got done installing a hydro to cable conversion witha gsr tranny into my 91, What I didnt notice when I bought the tranny was that the two lower mount bolt holes were completely stripped. One guy said to tap them out and use a helicoil another guy said that wont work due to the engine moving around at high rpm shifts. He told me to get bigger grade 10 bolts and just let them cut their own threads, the second of the two doesnt sound legit to me. I did some searching and didnt find anything of any help. What should i do?..Besides check the tranny better before buying it… thanks for the help and knowledge.
Low mount on a hydro tranny??? No B-series Hydro trany has a lower mount.
Have an aluminum welder fill the holes with weld… re-tap them to the OEM thread-pitch. Done.
But yeah, this is what I was wondering as well.
closed
[QUOTE=unified112;2240253]Have an aluminum welder fill the holes with weld… re-tap them to the OEM thread-pitch. Done.
[/QUOTE]
You can try this, but you may not be very successful. Often shops don’t even want to touch something like a trans case, that’s the problem I ran into when I had a similar issue. Apparently the metal isn’t exactly top notch stuff and it’s not very fun to work with and doesn’t result in reliable repairs. Every shop will be different though, so you can try someone local and see what they say.
I wish I had the original pics from when I did it. My problem was the lower bolt hole was completely ripped out. I drilled out the original hole and made it larger, turned a piece of aluminum on a lathe, tapped it, and put that insert into the enlarged hole. Then used JB weld to hold it all together. It held up like this for 5yrs of daily driving.
Here’s a recent pic of what happened when the JB weld finally fell off:
IMG_1681 by C o l i n, on Flickr
Custom helicoil ftw! That’s a great idea, will definitely keep that one in mind… i’d just need a lathe, and scrap aluminum… and, and, and… hehe.
I know an awesome aluminum welder that’s done some trans-case work for me… hell, he even welded an A/C line of mine that I kinked. I was amazed seeing him succeed at that. I now consider him a god among welders lol.
[QUOTE=unified112;2240259]Custom helicoil ftw! That’s a great idea, will definitely keep that one in mind… i’d just need a lathe, and scrap aluminum… and, and, and… hehe.
I know an awesome aluminum welder that’s done some trans-case work for me… hell, he even welded an A/C line of mine that I kinked. I was amazed seeing him succeed at that. I now consider him a god among welders lol.[/QUOTE]
Welding is an art, that’s why just not any one can do it.
Sounds like you’ve got the guy to go to! If you can get someone good to do it, welding is definitely the preferred method.
Its nice to see another reliable method though. Wish I knew, and had the means, to do metal fab and lathe work. Props to you my good sir!
Well, my dad is the one that deserves the props for it really. That was back when I was in college, when i first did my b17a rebuild and swap. The motor was out of a wrecked car, so that’s how the trans got messed up. Also, it could easily be done w/o a lathe. You’d need to find some thick wall aluminum tubing, drill the inside out to the proper size (in a vice opposed to on a lathe), and then tap the hole. Lastly file some flat sides on the outside of the tubing (to help prevent the aluminum from rotating once jb welded in place). We just used a lathe because my dad has a couple and it’s easier to get everything the exact dimensions you need and it makes the tapping much easier too.
Sorry about the confusion, the Two lower bolts that i guess go into a bracket thats on the firewall side of the trans. Either way thanks to all who replied, Ill figure something out.
Those were the two bolts I was thinking. I have a hydro gsr tranny in my 90 da9. A couple of things. Those two bolts are bigger than the cable bolts. Cable are 17mm and those are 19mm. I ordered some new ones from OEM Acura. Also the holes on the da T-bracket are little bit too small for those bolts. You will need to make them bigger. I used a round file.
And I also had one bolt hole stripped. The threads on the lower bolt are halfway gone on mine. Right now my bracket only has the top bolt on. Can’t tell the difference and I check it every once in a while, no problems.
I need to make a trip to fastenal and see if they have that bolt but an inch smaller. The lower bolt on the cable T-bracket uses a shorter bolt than the stock hydro bolt. I’ll update when I find something. I think I have enough threads on mine to make it work. Otherwise it will be heli-coil time. But right now it’s not a priority. Between X-mas and my Civic project I just don’t have the time for da projects right now. Probably after the holidays.
Ng
@ng8650… Thanks you are exactly right i had to drill the the t- bracket being that it was an all nighter putting the tranny in i had over looked the fact that the bolts were actually larger on the hydro tranny, the holes do look like there in bad shape though. there is a fastenal about 6 blocks from my house hopefully there open on christmas eve.Which conversion are you using and how well is it working for you. I went with the innovative actuator and mount kit, Did you keep the oem clutch cable? Im just curious no one i know personally has done the cable to hydro conversion. Its been a week since i put mine in and this bolt nonsense and the eight inches of snow have kept me from a good test drive as well as ecu tuning. Thanks again for your helphttp://forums.g2ic.com/images/smilies/bow.gif
I have the innovative setup that uses the OEM clutch cable. It works…but It’s been a disappointment. It worked great for about a week or two. Then the pedal got really stiff and it doesn’t come all the way up. I bought a new cable thinking it would solve the problem but only for about a week. I’m getting ready to install a true hydraulic setup by Hush22. I’m hoping that will make it work like my 95 Civic were you can’t feel almost any resistance on the pedal. There are some con’s to the Hush setup. I’ll get into that once I’m done with the setup.
I will say that take away the stiff clutch engagement, my gsr hydro tranny kicks ass! I love that thing. No grinds, no pop-outs, smooth short shifts, and the gearing is a combination of short and medium gears. It would be perfect if it had an LSD. But I’ve compared the LS, Hydro GSR, and ITR diffs and the GSR diff is built to take some abuse. The LS diff is small and is the weakest link in an LS tranny. I’ve seen them grenade and destroy the casing. The GSR diff is actually bulkier than the ITR. Is it stronger, I can’t say that, but I can say that it sure does look like it.
Ng
For those who have done or are planning a hydro swap in a da…You will need M14 size bolts for the two bolt holes on the bottom of the T-bracket. You will have to open up the da brackets holes in order for them to fit. Stock da are M12. I went to the local Ace hardware store and picked a M14 x 50mm that I will be using on the bottom bolt hole since it is shorter than the top bolt hole. Only draw back is that uses a 22mm bolt head.
Here is pic of a OEM bolt (top) and the one from the hardware store (M14x50mm)
Ng