Sup guys, off the bat i want to say i am a noob when it comes to tuning, and what to do. However I do want to make my 91 teg gain more power. Im looking for info on what to do with my build. I have a stock B18A1, looking to do Intake, Headers, etc simply bolt on’s for now. However i do plan on doing the internals of the motor. Would it be be cheaper to do a swap or build original motor? And what system should I use when tuning it? If i do build my original motor what should i use to tune it? and vise versa with a swap what system should i use to tune it? Thanks
As far as gaining power, simple bolts on are okay but there’s nothing you can do that will really make it drastically faster without serious mods. IMO the B18a1 is good for boost or ls/vtec and that’s about it. You would be better off building a motor of your choice on the side or buying one to swap if you don’t plan to follow either of those options. It depends what your power and driving goals are with the car. Not an easily answered question. Do some searching around the site and decide for yourself. I think the simple answer to your tuning question is to use Hondata for ECU tuning regardless of what route you choose.
[QUOTE=jdecks23;2321075]…use Hondata for ECU tuning regardless of what route you choose.[/QUOTE]Hondata seems to not support the '90-91 obd0 ecu. Is that correct as far as you know? (this thread)
The only thing that scares me about boost is the motor is bone stock and has 100k on the clock so either way i feel like without the motor being semi built that down the line it wouldn’t be reliable. It is my daily, but in all honesty for reliable daily driving power would a swap just be the easiest? I wouldn’t mind building the b18a1 but still feel like i wouldn’t get results out of it.
Reliability can be a relative concept. To some people I used to know, if an engine lasted through the summer racing season without breaking or having to be torn down, it was super reliable.
A better way of thinking about it is your own tolerance for risk.
0% risk tolerance = you rebuild the car and only trailer it to shows, because driving it might risk damage. 100% = you know the engine will blow up if you miss a shift or over rev on the track, but you don’t care b/c that is part of the sport. You just have to find your own place on that scale. For daily driving, a complete engine/transmission/ecu swap & tune is probably the way to go (compete new drivetrain in your old shell)
Another thing to consider is that most of the VTEC solutions add power by extending the power curve to higher revs. So, you do get more maximum power, but you have to rev the engine much higher.
The power gains at lower rpm, like what you’re at most of the time on the street only go up a little, or not at all, because the engine displacement is about the same. Can’t change that as long as the intake is operating at atmospheric pressure/vacuum. You can’t access the additional horsepower until the engine is revved past 5~6000 rpm and Vtec takes over.
On the other hand, a turbo forces air into the engine at higher pressure, so the power is increased at lower rpm somewhat in proportion to the higher intake air pressure.