Hey how’s it going guys Long time visitor first time messenger I guess, I have a 1991 bone stock except I put on a p75-5 intake to get rid of the EGR valve.
And I know the p75-5 intake only has three vacuum ports.
So I routed everything and used t fittings and things like that so everything still worked.
I drove the vehicle for over a month and even took it to the track twice with this intake.
Yes I’m still getting the code for the EGR even though I have it just sitting in the engine bay plugged in.
The issue I’m running into is the car will start no problem and sit there and idle in the driveway no issue The second I go to drive it I can make it maybe about 200 ft and then it will shut off if I turn the key off and turn it back on it starts right back up runs awesome and it’ll do it again 200 ft and then shut off it has a brand new distributor brand new NGK spark plugs brand new alternator brand new starter I’m lost I’m so close to going back to the old intake to see if that fixes it but the slight power difference with the p75-5 intake over the PR4 intake I mean I think it’s only like 3 to 4 horsepower but I noticed a difference any ideas guys. Also notation My fuel pump went bad on my hundred mile trip back and the only thing I had with me was a walbro 355 and I put it in on the side of the road and it got me home so I’m wondering if maybe I destroyed the fuel pressure regulator maybe? It also has a brand new main relay Honda brand new main relay so I’m lost.
i recently tried unplugging my egr valve to see if it had any effect on the random misfiring and stuttering issue that i’ve been having recently. after unplugging the egr the car ran about the same but would die randomly at idle after it warmed up. not sure if i have anything constructive to offer other than that i’ve been having a similar issue with an egr delete
I might just unplug the EGR completely and see what happens because my car runs perfect at idle and in neutral The second I go into drive that’s when my issue start
How long are you letting it idle for when you’re saying it’s fine at idle?
Pull the 7.5amp from the engine fuse box for a few minutes, pop it back in, and then start and let it idle for like 15 mins.
Also, are you in FL? I’m recognizing the plate type.
I mean I can let it idle for hours and it doesn’t have a problem and yes I am in Florida I’m in Pasco county The issue occurs when I take it for a drive it drives fine until I let go of the gas and then it will die and then I can start it back up and it will start right back up and run fine put it back in drive and it’ll drive completely fine until I let go of the gas again and then it acts like it loses all power even if I try to give it gas it just bogs bogs bogs until it’s completely slowed down and dead
Geez that is annoying. Are you able to hook up a fuel pressure gauge?