My idle is acting up, it bounces up and down from around 1200rpm to about 1500rpm, just bouncing back and foreward. I suspected a vacuum leak but I’ve replaced all lines with new ones and rechecked my lines from the FSM. I did notice I didn’t have my IAC plugged in, but today when I found it, I plugged it in and it still did the same thing.
After awhile, apparently when it warms up, it stops doing it so much and holds idle pretty good.
Before the rebuild there was no idle issues.
My ECU is throwing code 14 though which is IAC. I even tried resetting the ECU.
If anyone has suggestions, that’d be great.
clean your Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV). There’s a write up in the teg tips I believe. And reset the ecu by either disconnecting the negative battery cable, or pulling the ecu fuse for 30 seconds afterwards.
an air bubble in the IACV or FITV would be my first guess, Have you taken the car out for a test drive since or just let it idle?
I’ve only driven it in and out of my garage. Most of the time its been idling.
When I pulled out the motor I did remove the IAC and cleaned just as they did on the Team Integra website.
It sounds like it’s bogging as well now too. I’m trying to get a video of it but can’t find my camera.
Also forgot to mention, for some odd reason, when I connected my IAC plug into the IAC, the fans now turn on when the ign is in the ON and they NEVER used to do that. When the engine is running, it doesn’t turn off either.
try bleeding out ur cooling system. u prolly just have that air bubble stuck in there or have many.
I didn’t even think of that!! I’ll do that tomorrow for sure!
FYI the plug for the fan switch and the Iacv are the same and fairly easy to switch up. sound like that might be you fan/Iacv problem. :whisper:
bleed the cooling system and take it for a good drive to work any misc bubble trapped in it.
OO wow, so I have to look for the IAC plug then and plug it in since it’s obviously not the correct one?
iacv has a different color, i believe the fan one is green. iacv is a light yellow or cream color or something like that. oh and i didn’t notice that fan issue u had, yea definitely prolly mixed up, they will fit one another, so go and prolly switch them. usually for reasons like this, is why tagging plugs and sockets is a good idea.
ex. in a prototype EG at my school that we have, the IDIOTS in the honda pact program rebuilt the tranny, and installed it, unfortunately they mixed up the connector that led to the distributor and the one to the O2 sensor, car didnt fire up, took them 4 days, 2 instructors, and all 16 students in the program. after they got frustrated and gave up, i told them i’ll take a look at it, and in 15min, i found the culprit, switched them up, and started right up.
not saying i’m the shit or anything, but i pay attention to wire colors and stuff cuz i know it can happen. i didn’t need to tell that lil story, but i like ragging on those guys
Okay so I found the other one and the IAC wire is green lol I had the creamish one plugged in. It DID help the idle issue a but, however I’m still getting a wierd throttle response.
When I lightly hold the throttle open with my foot, the RPM’s bounce up and down +/-200RPM’s. I’m thinking vacuum lines but I’ve relooked them over and I can’t see how its the vacuum lines.
Also I bled the coolant system which did have air in the system but I got rid of that. That also helped. Now the only problem is what was mentioned how it bogs when I hold the idle, but it revs fine if I press the gas down then let it go.
Also forgot to mention, I’m still getting the IAC Code on my ECU
Here’s a video I finally got to upload from today.
At first I started it up, and it idle fine but as you’ll see, the idle bounces when I hold the throttle down.
:rockon: Problem solved. It ended up being that I actually have 3 of the same plugs, one was for the knock sensor when the car had a B16A in it. I plugged in the right one and the check engine light turned off, and the idles is perfect.