ok…i was given a gsr head with intentions of ls vtec. im in a bit of a financial bind (aka a shitty job with shitty pay). i want the lsvtec but i cant really afford getting the entire bottom end redone.now from what ive been hearing that if i keep it conservative for the time being so that i can save up for workin a block, it will be reliable. by conservative i mean, keeping it at stock rev, and using an afc to set vtec at 4500.i plan on using arp head studs, golden eagle vtec kit, and hopefully stock bottom end for the time being.
if i do choose this route, is thereanything else that i could do thats somewhat “affordable.”
the car runs beautifully as is but just doesnt have enough umph for me.
basically what im asking is what is the cheapest and most reliable way to build an lsvtec?
if ur thinkin cheap…dont do any vtec at all…ur car will run like crap until u can get it tuned which is anywhere from $3-600, u wont get that “umph” ur lookin for with a redline of 7000 rpms. Why not save u a headache and money in the long run and just do it right the first time. If something goes bad enough…u could even lose that head so id hold off till u can afford everything at once…
not true. i had a jdm b20b shortblock, stock b16 head, itr cams, 4-2-1 Mugen header, no cat, 2.5" catback, ported p30 im. it made about 190whp & 143wtq with a 7500 rev limiter. that extra 43wtq was more than noticeable. it was beyond a night and day difference vs. my old b16
[QUOTE=lemonyteg;1746092]well what im saying is that i dont have the space/$$ to build a bottom end. what are the failure points with a stock bottom end?
constructive critisism is always appreciated.
also, how much would it be to do a b20tec?[/QUOTE]
dont rip it to redline every time you drive it and you’ll be fine
why would you have to build the bottom end for v-tec? i’ve seen 350HP+ setups on stock bottom ends
but save yourself trouble and buy a chipped ecu instead of a VAFC
so…anubus_4_99… basically your sayin that if im rippin it to redline on a daily basis im gonna blow myself up correct?
also…any one know how to take out rod bolts? i was told that they have to pressed in/out im not too sure. my friend just spun a bearing in his lsvtec…its a stock bottom end but im sure it was the whole him being over 3qts low on oil had something to do with it.
he wants to replace the bearing and the rod bolts with arp.
[QUOTE=lemonyteg;1748738]so…anubus_4_99… basically your sayin that if im rippin it to redline on a daily basis im gonna blow myself up correct?
also…any one know how to take out rod bolts? i was told that they have to pressed in/out im not too sure. my friend just spun a bearing in his lsvtec…its a stock bottom end but im sure it was the whole him being over 3qts low on oil had something to do with it.
he wants to replace the bearing and the rod bolts with arp.[/QUOTE]
rod bolts are bolts, they arent pressed in, whoever told you that is full of it
anubis: you’re full of crap, actually, because ARP rod bolts DO have to be pressed in on OEM rods. and yeah, you need to AT LEAST replace the stock rod bolts because they weren’t made to withstand higher rpms than ls stock.
lemon: save your money until you have enough to do it right. I see no reason why, unless your engine now is dead/dying, you should throw it together sooner rather than later. I spent a year and a half saving money and gathering parts for my lsvtec because I didn’t have a good job at the time.
[QUOTE=lsteg;1749537]anubis: you’re full of crap, actually, because ARP rod bolts DO have to be pressed in on OEM rods. and yeah, you need to AT LEAST replace the stock rod bolts because they weren’t made to withstand higher rpms than ls stock.
lemon: save your money until you have enough to do it right. I see no reason why, unless your engine now is dead/dying, you should throw it together sooner rather than later. I spent a year and a half saving money and gathering parts for my lsvtec because I didn’t have a good job at the time.[/QUOTE]
i wasnt thinking about stock rods at the time i posted that, i was actualy looking at some eagles for my new setup, forgive me for a .07 second period of time that i wasnt thinking cohearently :hyper:
i also never said he didnt need to replace the rod bolts, but nor did i say you do like everyone else is. is it a good idea? duh. is it needed? not really, i have a friend with an ls-vtec thats been running for over a year on stock rod bolts, and about 4 months ago he added a turbo kit to the mix and its still fine.
what fucks over most ls-vtec setups is dumbasses who go OMFG i have VTEC! i must rip every fucking gear this car has so i can hear it switch over all the time!
50-75% of keeping any car in good mechanical condition is not driveing like an asshole, the rest is maintinance
haha…im not exactly one for street racing anymore so thats not a prob…already been in trouble for it a few times :). i think im gonna make an attempt on building a block…the raceway park swap meet is this weekend so i think im gonna just buy up as much as i can over there. i figure ill hone the block…drop in some new pistons…arp rod bolts and head studs, slap on that gsr head and call it a victory.
oh… a “source” i guess i could say mentioned something about a knock sensor requirement…now do i have to tap for a knock sensor or what? i know that it can be bypassed but i wanna be able to drive it to get it tuned and im gonna need to do break in. with new pistons/rings correct? havnt quite figured out that part yet lol.
should i just buy a chipped ecu, break in on that then get it tuned?
i would wait until you can do everything right the first time…like some one has mentioned ealrier…B20/v…mmm…if your going to swap a B20 i say spray it…my brother hit 13.9 with a 75 shot in his EG coupe running a gsr tranny…but its whatever you decide…just remember…its better to do it right the first time…
my ls/vtec has type r water pump, gsr oil pump, arp head studs but i do not have arp rod bolts in. my car never sees anything higher than 7500 rpms and i’ve had it since may. Its fine for a “stock” motor. i felt the same way you do. Couldn’t see taking the bottom end apart at the moment. DO NOT DOG IT if that is all you are going to do to the motor for the time being. I would still recommend waiting and doing it all right. no need to rush things.