need procedure for installing fuel pump kill switch

1-Go to the store and buy a switch

2-Unbolt and pull your rear seat out of the way

3-Identify your fuel tank sending unit. There should be two wires comming from it. One is ground and probably black, the other is the power.

4-Cut the power wire and connect your 2 wires of equal length to both ends of your power wire. Make sure you use heat shrink/electrical tape/wire caps.

5-Replace rear seat.

6-Connect the other ends of your wires to the switch.

7-Identify a good hiding spot for your switch

8-Mount your switch.

-Steve

It’s even easier than that. The fuel tank sending unit for the fuel gauge is about 2 inches back from the forward edge of the rear seat bottom and on the centerline of the car. You can just pull up the forward edge of the seat a few inches and disconnect the wiring harness connector on the top of the sending unit. Pull it out enough so you can work on it, cut the yellow/black wire about 3 inches from the connector and splice in your new wires going to your new switch. Tape it all up, plug the connector back in, and tuck the wiring back under the seat. Since the wiring goes to the sending unit FIRST and then to the pump (which is further back), this is much easier than pulling the seat out and accessing it at the pump.:ok:

wow, thats good to know. Thanks man.

Just remember to turn the switch back on before u start the car now LOL

Oh yeah! I promise you’ll try to start your car many times with the switch off. :roll: Now I wanna wire the passanger seat to go thru the roof like in a Bond movie! :lol:

ummm i thought it was yellow/black wire

at least thats what i cut and it worked :\

Sorry man, my bad. It IS the yellow/black wire. It’s been awhile since I did this and I shoulda looked at the wiring diagram again. :confused:

what’s the safest way to connect the new wires? saudering iron? the crimping connectors?

Solder is prolly best, and I did solder the wires to the switch, but small wing nuts work very well too. Just tape it all up when done and they’ll NEVER untwist. I hate crimp connectors for anything.

Originally posted by ShootingStar
Sorry man, my bad. It IS the yellow/black wire. It’s been awhile since I did this and I shoulda looked at the wiring diagram again. :confused:

does the helms manual have the wiring diagram for it? if so what page and approx location on the page?

thanks!

what kind of switch do I get? different switches use different amp ratings.

If you don’t wanna have to flip the switch each times you exit the car, I have a schematic on my computer that tells how to do a little circuit with a relay to disable the switch each time the car is shut off.

just let me know if you’re interested!

Originally posted by Answer
[B]If you don’t wanna have to flip the switch each times you exit the car, I have a schematic on my computer that tells how to do a little circuit with a relay to disable the switch each time the car is shut off.

just let me know if you’re interested! [/B]

i guess i’d feel safer with a switch. any9one have a diagram?

Blizzard: You still need a switch… but a push-button type switch instead. What you have to do is simply push on the switch while you start the car! When you shut the car off, the relay circuit disables itself and protects the car. This way, you don’t need to flip the switch each time you start or stop you car… Remember that starter kill devices and such things that are selling for a high price are simply a relay and couple wires in a nice plastic box…

here’s the diagram:

Real easy to do and works like a charm!