I had this small debate with a guy in another forum and he totally trashed my idea of going LSVTEC/CRVTEC. He said it was a waste of time and money. I’m still going to do it, but I’m starting to have doubts in the back of my mind. Do you guys think I should stick with the idea or just forget about it completely?
Thanks guys!
hm…not sure how to say this and be totally pc and not sway anyone’s opinion, so here’s my disclaimer:
the following is my own opinion regarding engine swaps, and it’s the reason I decided to build MY engine the way I wanted to and i’m not trying to rip on anyone else’s decision to modify their car the way they want to. i’m completely a fan of saying it’s your car please do what makes you happy. i am. 
anyways…
consider for the ease of discussion that a majority of straight vtec swaps are b16 swaps (more economical).
my opinion is that one of the reasons people go with a vtec swap is to get the higher rev capability and power of a vtec engine. by going ls/vtec or crvtec, that high redline is instantly compromised by a bottom end that is not meant to be revved that high. by fortifying the bottom end of the ls/vtec or crvtec, IMO, one has already spent as much money if not more on block, rod, piston, and crank work (along with losing the oil squirters which come in handy for added cooling) that could have been spent on a turbo kit boosting around 8-10 psi (which is not that harsh on stock internals) on the original b16, which will yield more power than the ls/vtec along with keeping the original high-revving capabilities of the straight b16.
like i said…if it’s the high-revving capabilities and fun of vtec that you’re looking for, ls/vtec or crvtec will make that redline lower just because those engines weren’t built to handle revving 7500 and beyond daily. if you’re looking for a setup that will cost ABOUT as much as a b16, though sacrificing some high-end power, then ls/vtec or crvtec would be a way to go. keep in mind there is custom machining required for the head for an ls/vtec setup, the cost of which could go toward a set of better cams or a port/polish on a straight swap.
again, i’m not trying to get your hopes up or down one way or another, just trying to give some insight as to different reasons for going with a given setup. like the song goes…“I can’t tell ya…who to sock it to.” 
I disagree on the revving capability. Yes the stock LS/CRV motors weren’t meant to be revved that high. but doesn’t mean you can rev it high on a LS/V. We had a stock block LS matted with a B16 head that was done almost 3 years ago. It’s a daily driven car, regular maintenance on the car is performed as it should be. Its at about 50K miles and still going. He takes it up to 8K all the time like any other B18C, or B16 and has had no problems.
Also, I have a D16A6(90 Si motor from CIVIC/CRX) in a 89 CRX HF and its redline is even lower than an LS, its at 6800RPM. It’s a stock block with a head built with performance springs and retainers. I rev that thing to 8200RPM all the time. The block is stock and been using it for 3 years, and who knows how much miles it has already before I got it. Been working fine for me. And I bet the LS rods are even stronger that the SOHC non-vtec rods.
But like you said, its your own opinion and I respect that. Not flaming on anyone or their opinions. Im just sharing my OWN thoughts and experiences for the good of the board. PEACE!
Look for my post on the LS/VTEC package versus an ITR package. You get a lot more for your money with an LS.vTEC.
Originally posted by zoomintegra
“I can’t tell ya…who to sock it to.”
" It’s your thang, do whatcha wanna do"
I did a b20 bottom with my B17A head with dual valve springs and titanium retainers and had no problem revving to 8000.
who’s going to boost a 10+ yr. old b16 motor without refreshing it beforehand & expect it to last? u think it’s just bolt-in & drive away?