Need recommendations on upgrading to big brake kit


These are awesome brakes. They do squeal alot with the “D” compound, but if you go with the “Q” compund, they won’t be as bad. I like the squeal cause it sounds pretty furious…

Stopping distance decreased dramatically, and they have yet to exhibit any signs of fade. A bit more maintenence is required, but it’s well worth it and the payoff is a much more responsive braking system. They fill the wheels out nicely, too. You must run a 16" wheel in a proper offset to make them fit. Don’t bother with wasting time of fitting a 15" wheel unless you like to gamble.

These brakes are so powerful that they locked while I was making a low speed left turn through some loose gravel, causing me to wreck my car. :frowning:

Originally posted by XDEep
thats true. i wonder why that is exactly?

More torque. Torque = r x F, where r is the distance ffrom the axis of rotation (fulcrum). The force is the same here (the friction force from your finger on the record), but r (the distance from the record center) has increased, and therefore so has torque.

Originally posted by JDMDA9
[B]

These brakes are so powerful that they locked while I was making a low speed left turn through some loose gravel, causing me to wreck my car. :frowning: [/B]

You know, that comment bout yer wreck kinda makes me not wanna get the brakes, hehe. I take it the wreck is the reason why in the top pic, the mouldings are body colored, and in the second pic the mouldings are still black with only the DOHC body colored. Nice car tho. And Ill still consider getting these brakes later on anyways, hehe

Originally posted by GSpeedR
More torque. Torque = r x F, where r is the distance ffrom the axis of rotation (fulcrum). The force is the same here (the friction force from your finger on the record), but r (the distance from the record center) has increased, and therefore so has torque.

:smiley:

Originally posted by JDMDA9
[B]
Stopping distance decreased dramatically, and they have yet to exhibit any signs of fade. A bit more maintenence is required, but it’s well worth it and the payoff is a much more responsive braking system.

My stock brakes can lockup my tires no problem, and they don’t fade at all… I still don’t get why you guys spend all that cash on big brakes. Not trying to be a dick, just trying to understand here. Did you actually do before and after tests on stopping distance? How much did it help?

I actually did do a before and after test. With my stock brakes, 60-0 on a smooth asphalt street was around 155-165 ft. With the Wilwoods, it was reduced to 125-130 ft. These tests aren’t scientifically accurate, but they are good for a comparison. I used a spool of string which I ran from the start point to the nose of the car after it stopped. I cut the string, took it home, and measured it off by yards. I then used my super powers to convert yards to feet.

I got the Wilwood kit because my stock calipers were finished, my rotors were cracked and I just decided to spend my money on a performance product instead of the same old OEM stuff.

Also, the stock brakes weighed around 40lbs total and the Wilwood kit was ~25 lbs.

Originally posted by mos
My stock brakes can lockup my tires no problem, and they don’t fade at all… I still don’t get why you guys spend all that cash on big brakes. Not trying to be a dick, just trying to understand here. Did you actually do before and after tests on stopping distance? How much did it help?

Try going to a track event then use your brakes there for the day come back and see how your brakes are after

I don’t go to track events. Trust me, if my life were different I’d be out there every weekend. I’m guessing a very small percentage of people who upgrade their brakes, go to the track. I have autocrossed… and I do work my brakes hard on the street sometimes. I’ve never had any reason to want better stopping so far.

A test comparing worn out stock brakes to brand new aftermarket brakes is only going to come out one way. I’d venture a guess that if the test included a run with OEM brakes working 100% the results would have been different.

That said, If my brakes were busted, and I had a choice between spending my hard earned money on OEM parts or race parts… I’d probably go for the upgrade. Or more likely find some cheap used parts.

I hope nobody takes my post the wrong way. Just trying to get some things strait for me and all the people out there reading this.

why not just go with the ITR or NSX or Legend caliper with teh legend rotor if you want to upgrade your brakes? im olanning on going with the ITR caliper with the Legend caliper. all that has to be done for the caliper to fit is to have 3mm machined off of the back of the caliper bracket.

The ITR/GS Legend/NSX caliper setup works well. I got to drive a car with them and was impressed. Especially since his setup front/rear cost as much as my fronts.

The only drawback I see with that setup is that you’re adding lots of weight to the brake system.

Originally posted by SOL1D
Try going to a track event then use your brakes there for the day come back and see how your brakes are after

My brakes were fine after 2 days at Mid-Ohio and 1 day at BeaveRun. I didn’t experience any fade (Axxis Ultimates). A grippier compound pad (not an autocross pad) would stop better, but if got some fade, then $20 brake ducts would be my first step.

Most of the Honda Challenge guys (not H1) have stock setups with brake ducts.

Just another opinion.

Maybe for Mid-Ohio, but the guys out here were roasting their brakes at Button Willow.

Originally posted by SE-37K
Maybe for Mid-Ohio, but the guys out here were roasting their brakes at Button Willow.

:smiley:

Originally posted by JDMDA9
[B]I actually did do a before and after test. With my stock brakes, 60-0 on a smooth asphalt street was around 155-165 ft. With the Wilwoods, it was reduced to 125-130 ft. These tests aren’t scientifically accurate, but they are good for a comparison. I used a spool of string which I ran from the start point to the nose of the car after it stopped. I cut the string, took it home, and measured it off by yards. I then used my super powers to convert yards to feet.

I got the Wilwood kit because my stock calipers were finished, my rotors were cracked and I just decided to spend my money on a performance product instead of the same old OEM stuff.

Also, the stock brakes weighed around 40lbs total and the Wilwood kit was ~25 lbs. [/B]

You did this test with the exact same tire/wheel combo right? If not then the test is apples to oranges.

Originally posted by SE-37K
Maybe for Mid-Ohio, but the guys out here were roasting their brakes at Button Willow.

Did you try brake ducts? (moot point now captain big brakes)…

Originally posted by GSpeedR
Did you try brake ducts? (moot point now captain big brakes)…

No, I was not one of the guys who had fade issues. I went with the Wilwood for braking power and control.

Originally posted by nonsense
You did this test with the exact same tire/wheel combo right? If not then the test is apples to oranges.

Yep. 205/50/16 Yokohama AVS-ES100s on all four corners. Wrapped around some tasty Volks, of course…:smiley:

it doesnt really add that much weight, think about it the ITR rotor and legend rotor fit under a 15in wheel with the wilwoods you have to run a 16in wheel, the difference in wheel weights pretty much offsets the weight difference of the brakes

Originally posted by Type S
it doesnt really add that much weight, think about it the ITR rotor and legend rotor fit under a 15in wheel with the wilwoods you have to run a 16in wheel, the difference in wheel weights pretty much offsets the weight difference of the brakes

No. Wilwoods are comprised of aluminum and steel. OEM brakes are made up of mostly heavier cast iron. I cut 15lbs. off the front of the car with the just the Wilwoods. My Volks shaved 4 lbs. off each corner. Unless you’re using some shitty, heavy wheels, then the Wilwoods will drop a bit of unsprung weight off the nose…

Originally posted by Type S
it doesnt really add that much weight, think about it the ITR rotor and legend rotor fit under a 15in wheel with the wilwoods you have to run a 16in wheel, the difference in wheel weights pretty much offsets the weight difference of the brakes

plus if you plan on using the legend rotors with the calipers i highly doubt you will be able to use a 15 inch wheel again, advan rg’s 15’s wouldn’t fit last time my friend check