Need recommendations on upgrading to big brake kit

ASSISTANCE Suspension, Brakes & Wheels
41

Originally posted by GSpeedR
[B]My brakes were fine after 2 days at Mid-Ohio and 1 day at BeaveRun. I didn’t experience any fade (Axxis Ultimates). A grippier compound pad (not an autocross pad) would stop better, but if got some fade, then $20 brake ducts would be my first step.

Most of the Honda Challenge guys (not H1) have stock setups with brake ducts.

Just another opinion. [/B]

Werd. Thats what I thought. I’m sure those HC guys arent exactly easy on brakes. Grippy pads, good fluid and ducts would be what I would try before shelling out big $$$$. I’m sure that’d be enough.

42

Originally posted by Type S
it doesnt really add that much weight, think about it the ITR rotor and legend rotor fit under a 15in wheel with the wilwoods you have to run a 16in wheel, the difference in wheel weights pretty much offsets the weight difference of the brakes

Have you ever held the two systems in hand? The weight difference if significant.

The Wilwood calipers are billet aluminum, as well as the mounting brackets and rotor hats. This means lighter weight and better heat dissipation.

I too am using Volk wheels.

43

New Good pads=$40-60, new good fluid=$5-8 qt, new brake lines=$100… we’re right around $150-$170… 35%(typo) the cost of entire new upgraded, larger, lighter entry level brake upgrade set=$600… Hum. Of course you could go much higher in value if you wanted, but to date I have not been let down with wilwoods Billet Dynalite calipers, and if they need to be replaced it’s less than $150, if they need to be rebuilt, it’s only $15, rotors are $100. Convinced? I used to regulary waste a set of Brembo’s or Stillen’s crossed drilled rotors in about a month, I mean wasted. Cracks, heat checking… gone. OEM calipers were binding, fluid was getting contaminated because of the lack of heat dissapation. Wilwoods brake set DRAMTICALLY upgraded my ability to modulate the brakes under extreme conditions, and they stopped the car significantly harder. All I can say is you must not be using your OEM brakes hard enough to mush them out if you’ve been able to run all weekend and still drive around afterwards all honky dorry
Schu

44

Originally posted by Schu
New Good pads=$40-60, new good fluid=$5-8 qt, new brake lines=$100… we’re right around $150-$170… 35% the cost of entire new upgraded, larger, lighter entry level brake upgrade set=$600…

150$ is not 35% of 600$.
Your brakes came with pads, fluid, and new lines included in that price? Sounds like a good deal then.

Hum. Of course you could go much higher in value if you wanted, but to date I have not been let down with wilwoods Billet Dynalite calipers, and if they need to be replaced it’s less than $150, if they need to be rebuilt, it’s only $15, rotors are $100.

I think I can get new replacement rotors for like $20 or $30 each. Used good condition OEM calipers, even whole brake setups are cheap and fairly easy to find.

Convinced? I used to regulary waste a set of Brembo’s or Stillen’s crossed drilled rotors in about a month, I mean wasted. Cracks, heat checking… gone.

I never thought crossdrilled brembo’s or stillen’s were any better than stock stuff. Actually I think they are worse.

OEM calipers were binding, fluid was getting contaminated because of the lack of heat dissapation. Wilwoods brake set DRAMTICALLY upgraded my ability to modulate the brakes under extreme conditions, and they stopped the car significantly harder.

Cool. I wish I had some too, I’m too poor tho.

All I can say is you must not be using your OEM brakes hard enough to mush them out if you’ve been able to run all weekend and still drive around afterwards all honky dorry
Schu

You’re probably right, I may not drive my car as hard as you do…

45

Cool. I wish I had some too, I’m too poor tho.

Why are driving an generation 2 integra then???
Schu

46

Originally posted by Schu
[B]Cool. I wish I had some too, I’m too poor tho.

Why are driving an generation 2 integra then???
Schu [/B]

Why am I driving a 12 year old economy car? Duh, because I’m poor. What makes you ask? :stuck_out_tongue:

47

Originally posted by Schu
New Good pads=$40-60, new good fluid=$5-8 qt, new brake lines=$100… we’re right around $150-$170… 35%(typo) the cost of entire new upgraded, larger, lighter entry level brake upgrade set=$600… Hum. Of course you could go much higher in value if you wanted, but to date I have not been let down with wilwoods Billet Dynalite calipers, and if they need to be replaced it’s less than $150, if they need to be rebuilt, it’s only $15, rotors are $100. Convinced? I used to regulary waste a set of Brembo’s or Stillen’s crossed drilled rotors in about a month, I mean wasted. Cracks, heat checking… gone. OEM calipers were binding, fluid was getting contaminated because of the lack of heat dissapation. Wilwoods brake set DRAMTICALLY upgraded my ability to modulate the brakes under extreme conditions, and they stopped the car significantly harder. All I can say is you must not be using your OEM brakes hard enough to mush them out if you’ve been able to run all weekend and still drive around afterwards all honky dorry
Schu

Skip the brake lines. Unecessary extra costs (yes I have them). I consider them the strut bar of the braking system.

So…
Track pads = more like $150 for front/rear (Panther +)
Brembo OEs = $40
Fluid = $20
Ducts = $20

So about $230 versus $650 (cheapest I could find the Dynalights), which is 35%. I don’t know how we should include the wheels however, since a 15/14" wheel can no longer fit.

I would agree that I am not as hard on my brakes as you are. After all I still have to drive the car home :). However, this setup is highly advertised for Honda Challenge racers (except H1, which is essentially $$$ unlimited). So unfortunately, I am not speaking from experience, but for what I’m doing, this is satisfactory, and I’m sure that most people here aren’t doing track weekends anyway. :cool:

48

I think the math is still a little bit flawed. Unless the big brakes come with pads, fluid and ducts… you might end up having to pay for those anyways. But ok, I’ll shut up now.

49

Originally posted by mos
I think the math is still a little bit flawed. Unless the big brakes come with pads, fluid and ducts… you might end up having to pay for those anyways. But ok, I’ll shut up now.

The kit came with pads and fluid. Ducts became and option instead of an necessity.

Take a ride in one of the big brake cars before discounting the value of the upgrade.

50

i read increasing the rotor surface area is the most significant brake upgrade you can do. mostly to do with the heat dissipation even from the same sized brake pad.

anywho, i just started doing brakes so im not going big brakes anytime soon. however i know ill need them eventually when i track and when the motor starts to breathe a bit more =P

“if you dont know why you need it, dont get it” - XDEep
“you dont know how crappy your shit is til you experience something better” - XDEep :smiley:

51

Originally posted by SE-37K
[B]Have you ever held the two systems in hand? The weight difference if significant.

The Wilwood calipers are billet aluminum, as well as the mounting brackets and rotor hats. This means lighter weight and better heat dissipation.

I too am using Volk wheels. [/B]

i actually put a set of the dynalites onto a friends dc integra track car, the caliper is light in weight. but how much of a defference are you actually going to see with using that a lighter caliper?

Id keep the stock weight with the NSX or ITR caliper and legend rotor and have a great set of brakes. the whole thing with the brakes is to stop the car in a shorter distance but at the same time reduce fade via adequate cooling. i know for a fact for the money you spend for the dynalites u get both if i could afford them i would get them in a heart beat along with the rear upgrade kit. but i cant so ill probablly stick with the ITR set up which will end up running me about 200 after the calipers rotors, machine work pads and fluid. ill try to post some pics when im done

52

There is a condition not expressed by most integra owners… When upgrading the rear braking capabilities, it tends to unsettle the chassis under severe conditions. What I have done to combat this is to actually reduce the capabilties of the rear brakes. this has the effect of keeping the car very planted during all facets of braking performance. This comes from experience.
Schu