Ok this is kind of silly. I know what upgrades I want, I just cant decide what order to do them in.
At this point, the three things that really need to be done are; replace the muffler (full catback), replace the struts (koni yellow/GC or PIC apex), and the LCA bushings.
A baffle has fallen over in the muffler (stock) so its needing replacment. I dont really want to put another OEM one on right now because I want to upgrade that. I was looking at at RSR, but I cant get one locally. The better option would be a greddy SP2, but it would cost me around $800… thats a lot to swallow and is like half the cost of my car!
The stock struts are original and the car is a '90 so I want to replace those. Will be chosing one of the two from above, but if I do this now I will have to put another oem exhaust on the car for the time being. This will cost more than the muffler but seems a better investment at this time… Only thing is, if I do this I will probably have to do the busings at the same time (around $400)
I cant really do any of this work myself because I live in a condo with no place to really work on my car, plus its winter!
What would you do?
My car is still stock, so anything will be a huge upgrade, and I dont plan on selling this car for a long time. Will be putting new 16" wheels/tires on in the summer.
I wasnt planning on buying cheap struts. Will probably end up getting koni yellows w/ ground control springs, or some pic apex coilovers… As far as I have read both are pretty good.
I have been looking at every local classified site and the bigger one called revscene in vancouver but all I have found in 3 months of looking is a year old HKS hi-power for $500… Keep in mind these are canadian prices…
What I really want to know is what I should do first… I more or less know what parts I want, just cant decide on where I should start…
i would just have a cheapo muffler shop put you up a new axle back section until you start doing actual motor work (if you havent already). i had road debris puncture my OEM muffler a year ago, i had some local muffler shop set me up with the 100 dollar special and i was on the road again, quietly. and since i DO NOT want to call attention to my car, and its got NOTHING under the hood yet, this is a great cheap fix until i go crvtec swap in a few years.
my advice: cheapo muffler since its probably hindering exhaust flow. then do the shocks and bushings at the same time to keep labor costs down (hopefully your shop is cool and doesnt charge “by the book”)
I have a former acura mechanic with a full shop and lift in his back yard that seems to be a G2 guru who will be doing most of the work for me. He even does some work for cash, tax free. seems like a reliable guy though, I trust his work.
I have been looking at bushings and a few other things. Since I was looking at the PIC Apex kit, they also have a full bushings kit.
I dont profess to know a lot about bushings, but the site says that the “Not all bushings will fit the following applications:
90-93 Acura Integra (all models - rear trailing arm bushing not compatible)”
Is that the main bushing with the flat metal bar through it; the primary one?
I know that bushing is the first one I should replace… any reccomendations on a kit and how easy would that be to do for a novice mechanic?
EDIT: Being in canada can suck for ordering parts and cost… Main local auto parts shop wants like $280 a corner for koni yellows and cant order ground control. Very limited on options as far as ordering around here!
The trailing arm bushings are indeed different diameters in our generation (85mm on the DA versus 80mm for the 94+ Integras and 88-00 Civics). There’s a couple ways to go about this. You can 1.) Go and get some new OEM bushings that will fit your DA trailing arms, 2.) Go and get some OEM or Mugen hard rubbers in the smaller size and have those pressed into the metal shell of the old DA bushing (after you burn out all the old rubber). 3.) Purchase some cheap cheap TA’s that had drum brakes on them and transfer your DA spindles and buy some brand new rear wheel bearings which also happen to include the hubs, then go and buy whatever bushing you’d like (OEM, Mugen, PIC, Hard Race, sphericals). Whatever you do though, don’t go and buy some poly inserts. They do not allow the trailing arm the proper lateral movement that’s needed. There has been LOTS of talk regarding this subject on here, so my best advice would be to search the suspension section and you’ll find a couple threads. Also google Wes Vann, RIP, he did a lot of the leg work, so his site has a lot of good info. Same with Ben Ogle, check his site out for some useful stuff.
As far as the finding a decently priced retailer for the Koni/GC combo, we have a decent sponsor section here (Weksos is a great company to deal with), or I would also venture over to Honda-Tech and check out they’re sponsor section as well. They have a lot more competition, so you could PM a couple different vendors and get the best price. Most of them should be able to ship to Canada no problem
Let us know if you’ve got anymore questions! :rockon:
The best thing about suspension work is that if your car gets stolen and recovered the suspension is usually left intact. I recommend Energy suspension bushing kit and Suspension Techniques front and rear sway bars.
Good post!
I have done a bunch of reading on the subject over the past few months and just now read through Wes Vann’s site on the topic of R-LCA’s.
I just have been having some trouble with the terminology as this part seems to vary so much. I have had my car up on the hoist and I know that it needs to be replaced, and one of my shops has suggested that they could press in some ES bushings for me.
I did not realize that there was so much variation on this part and so many nuances to it. Also, I did not know (but it makes perfect sense) that it needs to be adjusted if the car is lowered so it doesnt put extra tension or undue wear on it.
Local Lordo said they can get the ES LCA bushings in for $67 CDN, and they also have a full energy kit for around $320 CDN but they could not determine if that kit came with the R-LCA’s or not.
I am just gonna have to spend some more time reading up on this or just bite the bullet and have the shop do it instead. All this info is making my head spin… I know its not all that complicated, just need to let it sink in!
theres few members here from B.C. maybe you can ask them for some advice. try to find parts by yourself, in canada most of the shops try to rape you!!! its like that in toronto too.
The part number for the OEM DA trailing arm bushing is 52385-SK7-N0. Go get it from the dealer, I believe you can get it from Honda dealer as well. Don’t get the Energy Suspension or Prothane bushing. As far as the rest of the bushings i’ve read mixed reviews, some people say stick to oem rubber bushings, some people like the ES or prothane bushings. The problem with ES or Prothane is they need to be greased, if you drill/tap and install grease fittings for every bushing it will extend their life. Otherwise I heard they only last a few years.
for the trailing arm bushing, stick with oem. they’re surprisingly decently priced. the urethane ones misshape and tend to wear out faster. also, get a second opinion on those bushings. there is always going to be some tearing on them. make sure that they do in fact need replacing.
for the LCA’s, i’d always just roll to the wreckers and find a pair with the bushings in really nice shape. cost and time effective. make sure to save the bolts as well, as you may end up cutting your old ones to get the buggers out.
if you’re heading down to vancouver anytime, i’ve got a decent set up w/jdm rear lca’s i could swing you for a decent price. i have access to a hoist as well
what is the difference between the JDM LCA’s and the OEM ones?
I was just getting confused between the RTA bushing and LCA bushing… I am pretty sure I know which is which now but that was what was throwing me off so much!
I have it up on two hoists and the first guy said that I would be ok for a little while (in relation to the RTA bushing, and another place said they were shot. When I looked at them the second time they looked totally blown. They suggested the ES bushings but the OEM ones sound like a better idea…
[QUOTE=obsidian;2097635]Good post!
I have done a bunch of reading on the subject over the past few months and just now read through Wes Vann’s site on the topic of R-LCA’s.
I just have been having some trouble with the terminology as this part seems to vary so much. I have had my car up on the hoist and I know that it needs to be replaced, and one of my shops has suggested that they could press in some ES bushings for me.
I did not realize that there was so much variation on this part and so many nuances to it. Also, I did not know (but it makes perfect sense) that it needs to be adjusted if the car is lowered so it doesnt put extra tension or undue wear on it.
Local Lordo said they can get the ES LCA bushings in for $67 CDN, and they also have a full energy kit for around $320 CDN but they could not determine if that kit came with the R-LCA’s or not.
I am just gonna have to spend some more time reading up on this or just bite the bullet and have the shop do it instead. All this info is making my head spin… I know its not all that complicated, just need to let it sink in![/QUOTE]
$320 CDN is just WAYYY too much for that. You can find them for around $150-$160 shipped on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ENERGY-SUSPENSION-MASTER-BUSHING-KIT-INTEGRA-90-93_W0QQitemZ270395133564QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item3ef4ce4e7c. As far as difficulty, it’s a little more involved, but nothing a little research, determination, and some tools can’t solve. Here’s Ben Ogle’s site: http://ef-honda.com/ben/. He explains a lot, and this site is GREAT resource IMO (even has a EF/DA part weight list!)
Yessir! I decided to go all OEM on my LCAs and what not, but the ES kit is soo much cheaper, so there is definitely a trade off there
[QUOTE=welfare;2097763]suspension first. always
for the trailing arm bushing, stick with oem. they’re surprisingly decently priced. the urethane ones misshape and tend to wear out faster. also, get a second opinion on those bushings. there is always going to be some tearing on them. make sure that they do in fact need replacing.
for the LCA’s, i’d always just roll to the wreckers and find a pair with the bushings in really nice shape. cost and time effective. make sure to save the bolts as well, as you may end up cutting your old ones to get the buggers out.
if you’re heading down to vancouver anytime, i’ve got a decent set up w/jdm rear lca’s i could swing you for a decent price. i have access to a hoist as well[/QUOTE]
Most of the time the bushings are toast by this age. You might get lucky and find some in alright condition, but honestly I would just replace them at this point.
[QUOTE=obsidian;2097952]Ok, once again the noob response just to verify because I am still learning this stuff. I am pretty sure I know which is which, but this here is the rear trailing arm and bushing:
what is the difference between the JDM LCA’s and the OEM ones?
I was just getting confused between the RTA bushing and LCA bushing… I am pretty sure I know which is which now but that was what was throwing me off so much!
I have it up on two hoists and the first guy said that I would be ok for a little while (in relation to the RTA bushing, and another place said they were shot. When I looked at them the second time they looked totally blown. They suggested the ES bushings but the OEM ones sound like a better idea…[/QUOTE]
Yes, you got those two right. The difference between JDM lower control arms and USDM LCAs is in the way the shock mounts. On the USDM they are a “fork” type and slide over the LCA bushing. And on the JDM models the rear shock slides into the LCA
Here’s a JDM LCA (box type):
But finding a retailer up there shouldn’t be too hard. Whatever you do, DO NOT just walk into a shop, they will rape you hard on the pricing (as shown above) and I would make an effort to contact some of the sponsors on this site, they can surely get you a great price on both bushings and a Koni/GC combo (try weksos, they should be able to ship up there).
In regards to using two hoists. Go buy a jack and some jack stands, it is not worth your life to be complacent like that. And you’ll have a level car too
