need some help with front suspension

I decided to try to install my new springs on my own to save some dough and learn a little. I’ve got the helms manual so it seems pretty straight forward. But I’ve run into a problem already on the front and I just started. I can’t for the life of me get the damper fork bolt loose. It’s the bolt that goes through the bottom of the damper fork. It’s got a nut on the other end and it’s a 17mm size. Now I’m not some little pipsqueek either so it’s getting frustrating that I can’t loosen this bolt. I’ve applied a little liquid wrench to it and gave it a shot but it didn’t help. Any suggestions on this? I haven’t tried the other side of the car yet, but I figured if I can’t get this bolt loose there’s no sense in trying the other side. I don’t have airtools so that’s not an option. I just wanted to be able to do this on my own and not pay for it to be done. Thanks in advance for any help.

I had trouble with that too before. I used a breaker bar the 1st time and i got the bolt off. After that it’s been easy to remove cause it’s always been torqued to spec. If you already used a breaker bar and still can’t get it off, i can’t help you anymore hehe.

A johnny bar (breaker bar) with some liquid wrench should do the trick for most bolts. For the stubborn ones, the next step is to apply some serious heat (like a torch).



thanks guys. I should have mentioned that I did try a breaker bar already. I may give that another try though and see what happens. It’s kinda strange because the springs I have on my car now have only been on for a year, so it’s not like I’m trying to loosen a bolt that hasn’t been off in 11 years. Obviously whoever installed those springs didn’t pay any attention to torque specs and tightened the bujeezus out of it. The threads sticking out of the nut look really clean too so it doesn’t look like it’s rusted on. Oh well, guess I’ll keep working at it and if worse comes to worse I’ll have to take it somewhere. Thanks again

i found out the hard way about these bolts and had to leave my car at school apparently these bolts get frozen in the bushing jus tif you eventually get it off put a little antisieze on it i had to use a air gun and a pretty bad— one at that good luck

whassup homies? I’m having this exact same problem. What the hell is a breaker bar? Is that just a really long socket wrench? I have a torch but I tried it on the caliper bolt earlier and it didn’t work so I have little faith in that. I was told you apply heat to the area where the threads are. Is that correct? Should I get a “breaker bar”?

I’m getting sick of every single bolt on my car being overtightened or rusted on or seized. Old cars suck ass hardcore. I was looking at air compressors and torque wrenches at the hardware store. About $100 for the compressor and $50 for the wrench. Do I need a torque wrench or just a wrench? TIA

if you can’t get it off with a breaker bar I doubt air tools will help too much either. I did my springs myself and used a breaker bar on the front. On the rear is where I had a problem. I was putting my impact wrench on this one nut for a long time untill I figured out that the nut was welded on and I had to take the bolt out hahaha.

heres a tip for the rear just incase, my manuel said to just unbolt the rear shock top and bottom and the assembly would just slide out the side… no that didn’t work for me. I had to unbolt the bottom arm from the hub and slide the shock and spring out the bottom with the arm removed.

I would love to help but your a few hours away.

I just did my suspension last weekend, and I had the same problem with the rears. I ended up taking the bolt out of the lower control arm to be able to get the assmebly out. Go figure.

As far as the front goes I just used a breaker bar too and that worked fine.

All you guys use breakers and none of you have broken any bolts yet? I snapped that fork bolt on the drivers side, man, it took TWO hours to drill it out. There harden steel with groves and they are famous for seizing, even though there are desinged to not seize. As for heating, propane won’t do it, you need brazing fuel, it gets alot hotter, same tip though.I just finished up a complete bushing swap in mine and the brazing fuel saved alot of my bolts from breaking.
WARNING anyone who is thinking about replacing your bushings with poly urathane, it is not for the faint of heart, bout 20 hours for my complete swap. But what a difference!!!:stuck_out_tongue: