First off i’m going to be using the DB2 as my daily. I’m rebuilding the B17 with NPR’s Master Overhaul Kit (gaskets, seals, bearings, water pump etc.) but using OEM rings instead. I’m also swapping my internals with P73 Rods and ITR pistons to bump up my compression, with a tune I was told I should be about 170-180 to the wheels. My questions were:
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Will it be necessary at all to run ARP Head Studs or will using the OEM bolts be just fine?
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I ordered an F1 Racing Stage 3 Clutch with a 6-Puck Sprung disc, will that do just fine if I decide to rip on it occasionally?
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Please don’t smash on me too hard for this but what are all the belts and hoses I should be replacing aswell? Also, if anyone could, what are the lengths of the vaccum hoses I need?
Please remember I’m building this to be a daily with some kick. Any input (good or bad) will be greatly appreciated!
- ARP head studs are NOT necessary, but they are definitely good insurance when you’re hitting 8k+ rpm. Stock units would do fine… But if you’re meaning stock B17 head bolts that are twenty years old, you really might as well replace them.
2). That clutch is WAY overkill… I’ve never gotten the trend of “Ok, my motor is pushing less than 200whp… I’m going to use a clutch rated for 400whp”. An OEM Replacement by Exedy (or even a Stage1) would be better suited for your needs. But if you bought it already, you can run it. It’s just not ideal.
- Replace prettymuch any vaccum hose or coolant hose. Any pre-shaped hoses need to be bought from the dealer as you can’t make 90° bends with straight hose. I replaced 95% of all my hoses when doing a swap. Made things world’s easier.
[QUOTE=unified112;2302817]1) ARP head studs are NOT necessary, but they are definitely good insurance when you’re hitting 8k+ rpm. Stock units would do fine… But if you’re meaning stock B17 head bolts that are twenty years old, you really might as well replace them.
2). That clutch is WAY overkill… I’ve never gotten the trend of “Ok, my motor is pushing less than 200whp… I’m going to use a clutch rated for 400whp”. An OEM Replacement by Exedy (or even a Stage1) would be better suited for your needs. But if you bought it already, you can run it. It’s just not ideal.
- Replace prettymuch any vaccum hose or coolant hose. Any pre-shaped hoses need to be bought from the dealer as you can’t make 90° bends with straight hose. I replaced 95% of all my hoses when doing a swap. Made things world’s easier.[/QUOTE]
Thanks a lot, yea I don’t plan on going anything over 200 whp until I get another unmodified daily. I did a lot of research on clutches as did I research any other part I’m putting into this project so I chose an organic stage 3 over OE Replacement because It grabs very smooth. I just wasn’t sure if it could handle a day or smashing (local meets, drives etc.) As far as the belts and hoses go I read that AutoZone should be able to just pull it up on a computer. You’ve helped a bunch, I really appreciate it!
My buddy has run three separate XTD clutches. Two stage 2 and one stage 3, with a 9lb flywheel.
All clutches held perfectly fine on his stock motors. But he DID stress properly breaking the disc in.
After 5 years of that he went back to an OEM flywheel and OE replacement clutch and loves the feel heh. Like I say it will work fine, it’s just overkill.