need a gasket size that i can get from an auto parts store
nearest acura dealership is in omaha like 160 miles away from me
like i said i jus tneed the gasket size so that i can get them from a parts store
thanks guys
If you dont want to go to the dealership, then make the dealership come to you.:whisper:
do you have the part number i still can’t look it up
anyone know what size cuz i’d like to get this all done while i have the dash out
1st go to Acura or Honda and order qty 8 of part number 91608-SJ6-003. It is a small white rubber seal. They cost about $ 2.50 each 2nd remove the wiper arms and the wiper motor cowl. The wiper cowl is the long black panel under the wiper arms. Pop out the black circles and unscrew the white clips. You may also have to pull out the plastic pins under the rubber seal on the firewall side of the cowl. The panel is cumbersome. Use caution not to break the ends near the hood hinges. After you remove the cover there is another black cowl on the passenger side. This cowl covers the passenger cabin air intake. The leak is coming from the black plastic push screws that hold that cover on. When you remove the cover you can see the seals in the holes that the push screws were in. The rubber seal dry-rots over time and the sides split open. Water leaks in one drop at a time and adds up quickly. Once you have replaced the seals you should be leak free for another 9-10 years.
i work at honda and they dont have this part i think only acura does.
Or you could try what this dude in New Zealand did.
http://www.integra.orcon.net.nz/leak
It’s pretty much the same as using those minute OEM gaskets, except he uses gasket maker.
FUCK THAT REPLACIN THE LITTLE GROMMETS THING!!
1…Get a cheap ass rubber floormat (the small one for the rear) @ walmart for $1.50.
2…Open the cowl cover
3…cut the mat to fit over the air box, & secure it with the ribbed push pins or screws.
4… No leak!!
The water drips into this box; so by covering it, you eliminate the problem. the only downside is that your outside (fresh) air vent on the A/C doesn’t work. As far as I’m concered, if I want outside air, I’ll roll down the window!!
Better than a puddle on the floor!
:getsome: :manual:
Gasket maker or the grommets don’t really work well for long. Trust me, I did this fix 4 times before covering the box. No problems after 6 months.
I just got some nuts, bolts, washers, and some black silicone sealant. I put sealant on the washer and tightened it down on each hole so no water can get through.
I also cut a piece of plastic and placed it over the opening. It blocks the airflow a little bit, but it’s better than a wet, smelly, moldy interior.
[QUOTE=h93da6;1672516]the only downside is that your outside (fresh) air vent on the A/C doesn’t work. As far as I’m concered, if I want outside air, I’ll roll down the window!!
Better than a puddle on the floor![/QUOTE]
Know what’s even better? Fixing it properly…
It’s cheap, and it takes no time whatsoever. I did it to my sisters teg… Worked flawlessly.
Say what you want, but all the other ways didn’t work for me. As far as I’m concerned, if I don’t have a leak anymore when all other ways failed- then I did fix it properly. Besides, replacing the grommets isn’t cheap. If you think $2.50- $4.00 a grommet is cheap, you’re crazy. I paid $2.00 to fix mine.
Damn Xtreme98, 2 negative posts in 10 mins on the same sub forum!?
You got some issues you need to deal with? Come to think of it, both seem to be directed @ my posts. Have I wronged you in another life or something?
Take your hostilities & problems elsewhere. I don’t have time for it. I’ve already wasted too much as it is.
:getsome: :manual:
The fix in teg tips works SOMETIMES. In my car, the leak was from the grommets and a square clip(lack of better term).
I didn’t want to buy grommets, so I just plugged those holes up by other means. I also plugged the hole for the square clip. It works! No more leaks.
I think a wet floor is crazier…
No… stupidity just annoys me… Telling someone to half-ass a job is retarded… This site is built on people who know what the fuck they’re talking about, and when half ass tips are being handed out to people, it lessens the quality of this site… Nothing against you… just against your shitty advice… I’m not being hostile… just sensible… and apparently you did have time for it… you replied… Have a nice day! 
Edit: Oh… and my other post was neither A) Negative… nor B) directed towards you… contrary to your beliefs, you are NOT the center of the universe…
Call it half ass if you want, call it shitty advice; But just ask boonyboun or many others on here who’ve done it because the OEM way didn’t work.
This site is built by those who know what they’re talkin about. How do you think I found out about this method?
As far as being the center of the universe, I never claimed to be nor implied it. When you make 2 comments in a row related very specifically to mine, how else should I take it? How would you? By firing back your side of course.
Contrary to what you may think, I don’t want a war here. It’s really not that important. If you wanna fix it your way then fine. If you want to spend oogles of cash on a steering wheel then fine. To each his own. Sorry it went this far.
I don’t want to be one of those people cloogin the site w/ flames & BS, so I’m squashin it. If you don’t accept then whatever. Block me if you think it’s necessary.
:getsome: :manual:
oogles…
Right… my posts were totally related to yours… Could it be due to the fact that we’re talking about the same damn topic? :roll:
Settle down… Everyone i know who’s done this leak fix the proper way using oem parts, has had nothing but success. Just cause you’re too cheap to throw down 50 bucks, doesn’t mean everyone is… and again… as for the steering wheels… I defined cheap as ebay garbage… Someone who gets a 20 dollar ebay steering wheel is going to have to replace it every year…
Welcome to the internet… they’re called opinions… and just like assholes… everybody has one…