I’m installing new pulleys (aem) power steering and alternator.also the crank shaft pulley(lighter/aluminum) together with new belts.Anyone done this? will i feel a difference?
I have a stock 1992 INTEGRA GS B18 (5 speed)with 192,000 miles.I will be going to the track on the 16 of november and i want to breack 16’s.Never ran this car on the track before.
All i have done to this car so far is :
-drop in K&n filter(resonator removed)
-new plugs(ngk) , wires(oem), pcv valve,fuel filter
-mobil 1 full symtetic every 3,000 miles(all gaskets new, also)
-weight reduction(no rear seat belts,ecm shield,spare tire and jack,floor mats,rear hatch cover,rear wiper and wiper arm)might also remove rear seats.
-valves adjusted
-air/fuel ratio gauge (to control the mixture)
-bypassed coolant hose at the throttle body
-SKUNK 2 springs all around (2 inch drop)
-front upper strut bar/rear upper strut bar/c pillar bar
-new falken tires on 1993 gsr wheels
-Will be using either race gas or sunoco 94 octane
(Used to have a 1993 integra ls with similar mods and my best time was 16.1.)
ANY TIPS,TO RUN THE FASTES ON THIS NON VTEC ENGINE?
a/f guage doesn’t control the mixture it tells you what its at and is pointless if its not a wideband, also its kinda pointless unless you have something to tune your a/f with,but its always nice to know.
anyway you really dont want much more then a 1/4 tank of gas when your at the track, you dont need high octane gas you wont benefit from it with your setup.
a bone stock integra should have no problems hitting high 15’s or low 16’s
If you have the time and money do a good clutch setup with a 8lb flywheel.
not sure if you did already but loosen the 3 distributor bolt and turn the distributor as far as it goes toward the firewall, and run premium gas.
If you do what i said above you should be low 15’s all day ( i was)
now if you did cluch/flywheel along with a vtec conversion you would be mid to high 14’s all day.
The motor is stock, running 94 + octane will just make it slower if you don’t need it, or have a way to take advantage of the higher octane. Just run the octane it suggests. Advancing the distributor full advance is not only dangerous, but stupid. Do it the right way. Don’t do a big burnout, skip the water box and jsut spin the tires to clean them off, that’s it. No point in a John Force on street radials if they are not drag radials. For what you have done, your best mod is seat time to dial in the launches and find out ideal shift points. Full throttle shifting may help a tiny tiny bit. Not sure on adjustability, but if you can, tighten up the rear suspension to full firm to prevent the rear from squatting as much as possible.
i disagree with the statment the advancing the timing by turning the distributor is stupid. in a higher compression setup i would agree but on stock b18a/b compression with it advanced along with premium gas, you wont even be knocking on the door of preignition or spark knock, or detantion. this is a turbo or high compression setup, the guy just wants to go a lil faster when hes at the track. we have all been there before theres writeups on here about what you can do and all that but for the most part we all have done something different. when i was n/a myself along with all my friends did this and had no problems. we tried it on my bro’s h22 accord but only got 3/4 of the way before spark knock. you dont have to try it,just trying to help.
How do you know when you are knocking? I hope not just by ear as everyone should know that when there is audible knock by a ear, you have already done damage, weather it be very very minor or lots as detonation begins way before you can hear it. Unless you are to hookup a chassis ear to the engine. But you are correct, back in the day when I was NA I also did the same thing but with a timnig light to 18*. More power? Prolly not, better fuel economy, little. I’m just anal when it comes to spark advance via distributor more then 2*in either direction as this effects the entire map, and not jsut in the areas you want.
i agree with you on tuning by ear is kinda pointless, ive always used det-cans so you can hear everything down to the valvetrain events and injectors cycling. I hope your not referring to only using a knock sensor, which is only a little bit better the listening by ear. I am very conservative on my tune these days due to past experiences with tuner shop. I understand you are also conservative and safe with your tune, because water/meth injection. So i do what you to know we are both on the same side, as far as knock control goes. im just saying theres no risk in this guy tuning his timing with his c/r and setup, all it will do is help his lower end.
The Honda knock sensor as I’m sure you’ll agree is pretty primitive, I actually have mines disabled. I have a chassis ear that I use for mines and customers and works rather well, same things as your det-cans. Safe is the way to do, just not too safe
to the OP, when are you planning on racing at the strip? I thougt msot tracks are closed for drags now since the season is more or less over.
