Well just bought my first 90 RS Da9 last weekend and I’ve the last week I’ve descoverd a few problems.
Had a weak idle, not a constant repetitive fluctuating but it would sit around 700 then dip down and raise up hear and there… Cleaned the IAC, Throttle Body, FITV and adjusted it. Tightened throttle cable as it was really loose! Still have the problem…
ALSO, my car has started jerking when I’m driving, and kreaking over bumps!
After constant trial and error during this last week I decided to look at the paperwork from the previous owner of work down at the mechanics right before he sold it to me.
BOOM right there at the bottom "Reccomended installs apon inspection: (BROKEN FRONT ENGINE MOUNT $148, TIMING BELT KIT $498, REAR TRAILING ARM BUSHINGS $348)
So my next question is these would fix all my problems correct? An this prices seem kind of High! Is it worth getting done at the mechanic for that price or are these fairly ez jobs?
Keep in mind I am a total NOOB cleaning the IAC, Throttle Body and FITV where about the most complicated things I’ve done lol
Thanks for the reply man, these inspections were made at the garage on Jan/4 since the car is jerking do you think my other mounts are busted? I hope not. And how can I tell ?
More than likely the mounts are bad, keep in mind these 20+ year old cars that have more than likely seen some sort of abuse. If i was me i would replace them all with either hasport or innovative. Also when you did the fitv did screw the porcelain piece down?
Any easy checks for a vaccume leak? I already bled the cooling system. Tried to listen for a vaccume leak hissing sound but couldn’t find one. It’s not really a repetitive surging idle, I’ve seen that before. It kind of sits at 700 and goes up and down here and there like its going to bog out then revs back up again. Never actually stalled on me tho
When I bought my last da the timing belt had a ton of slack and jumped a tooth and it had the same idle issues you’re describing. It had other issues but replacing the timing belt corrected the dropping idle. Don’t forget to do a valve lash adjustment after installing a new belt.
You can check to see if the mechanical timing is off by pulling the valve cover and rotating the engine to tdc by hand. If any of your timing marks are off you’ll know you skipped a tooth. I would recommend replacing it anyway though since you have no idea when the last time was its been changed.
[QUOTE=rollinmyda;2283926]When I bought my last da the timing belt had a ton of slack and jumped a tooth and it had the same idle issues you’re describing. It had other issues but replacing the timing belt corrected the dropping idle. Don’t forget to do a valve lash adjustment after installing a new belt.
You can check to see if the mechanical timing is off by pulling the valve cover and rotating the engine to tdc by hand. If any of your timing marks are off you’ll know you skipped a tooth. I would recommend replacing it anyway though since you have no idea when the last time was its been changed.[/QUOTE]
Ill get on that tomorrow thanks for the advice ! I’ll search for some DIY threads, I wasnt exaggerating when i said I’m a total NOOB some pics would help lmaoo
[QUOTE=MonstrDrop;2283847]Any easy checks for a vaccume leak? [/QUOTE]You can use a BIC lighter, start the car, “flick” the BIC without lighting it, hold it on and pass it over your vac lines, if RPM increase there is a leak at that point. 94
Welp, Fixed the fron motor mount, still rocking so im guessing there are more bad mounts.
ALSO,
I noticed a weird popping noise coming from the exhaust when its cold… And during the first 10 minutes or so of me driving it.
Also has a rough idling issue, could these problems be related?