hey people question, what would be a good swap for a b18a integra, thats both not to pricy but still better than the b18a? and does anyone no some good places to look? i checked the hmotorsonline.com already. thanks
I have the same question, and what I’ve realized is that the b16a’s are cheaper and more horsepower due to the vtec, but the torque is lower. The vtec makes up for this with great top end power, though. B18c’s make up for the torque issue, and still have amazing top end power due to vtec, but the price for the motor alone is around 3300. Those are the only two motors I’ve seen people really swapping, besides the b20, which I have no idea about.
if yours is 90-91 i think you can go for b16a2 which has 170HP compare to the b16a1, 160HP (i think if i remeber correctly is a straight swap for 92-93)
don’t get b20… just a lot of torque, but don’t have much HP… and is not very rev happy… and it has no vtec… one thing tho, it is indeed cheap!
Originally posted by codenamezero
[B]if yours is 90-91 i think you can go for b16a2 which has 170HP compare to the b16a1, 160HP (i think if i remeber correctly is a straight swap for 92-93)
don’t get b20… just a lot of torque, but don’t have much HP… and is not very rev happy… and it has no vtec… one thing tho, it is indeed cheap! [/B]
Why would he go for a B16A2 if he has a 90-91? 90-91 are non-OBD while B16A2’s are OBDII. B16A1 are either OBD0 or OBD1 depending on the year I believe.
Originally posted by 90RioGS
Why would he go for a B16A2 if he has a 90-91? 90-91 are non-OBD while B16A2’s are OBDII. B16A1 are either OBD0 or OBD1 depending on the year I believe.
i think b16a1 is ODB0, and b16a2 is ODB1, or visversa…
B16a1 is non-0bd and is a cable clutch the b16a2 is obd-1 and require the hydro clutch unless you get a conversion kit.
I think a B16a1 will hook right up to your ls tranny but does not work as well as a vtec tranny would with a vtec motor.
the b16A2 is from the 99-00 civic sir and it is OBD-2
just to clearify things
not trying to be a know it all
Just get turbo 
unless your engine is bad
which motor?
although the ls motor is a very good stock powerplant to build for turbo, most honda tuners myself included want vtec. for the money the jdm b16a is a great swap but yes you do lose some torque but the tradeoff in hp is better anyway. You are absolutely right about the gsr being hard to find for a decent price as most do not sell for under $3000.00 that are in good shape. You could always try to hunt up a b17a which I have for sale, which is out of a 92-93 integra gsr. It runs fine but is not as rev happy as the b16a but has more torque. or if you really wanted to go all out you could buy a jdm b18c (type-r) and drop it in with hasports new hydro to cable transmission converter but would be very expensive. If you want vtec go with it because man is it fun but if you want turbo just rebuild your ls as it has a static comp ratio of 9.2-1 which is perfect for turbo.
Originally posted by codenamezero
[B]
don’t get b20… just a lot of torque, but don’t have much HP… and is not very rev happy… and it has no vtec… one thing tho, it is indeed cheap! [/B]
The B20 is a great swap and the cheapest way to faster times if you are already looking for another motor. There is lots of debate on weather the B20 or the B16a is faster. The B16a has more hp but that hp is way up in the rpm band. It also has about the same torque as the B18a however the torque it has is also way up in the rpm band. This means that the B16a is a great motor if you drive around all day with the motor tached out or if you only drive it at the track.
The B20 has lots more torque than either of those and that torque is at much lower rpm than even the B18a so it is very noticeable in daily driving. In the crv the B20 is rated at only 126 hp however that same motor with the ls intake and exhaust manifold puts out 145hp and does it at lower rpm than the B18a. And that is with stock type parts not the I/H/E that most add to there cars. I don’t call this low hp but I will admit it is not the 160 of the B16a.
In the quarter mile the B20 pulls very hard off the line and immediatly pulls away from the B16a. Then the B16a spends the rest of the track trying to catch up. Many say that the quarter mile is not enough room to catch up but a longer race and the B16a is certainly faster. Most people drive on the street and in the stoplight gran prix the B20 is king.
The B20b will bolt into your car using your stock B18a tranny, intake, exhaust, and dist. There are two wires that must be lenthened but other than that it is 100% bolt in. I was able to buy the B20b for less money than I could find the B18a. The B16a you need the engine, tranny, and ecu. Plus there is other wiring that must be done to hook up the engine to the vtec ecu.
Just some more to think about. Try searching for each motor and see what others have to say.
b20 reply
I would really like to see your dyno figures with the b20 with stock ls intake and exhaust manifold jump from 126 hp at the wheels? to 145 peak hp? Not to be a now it all or a smart ass but that is a 19peak hp jump using stock parts. I think a lot of g2 guys using the I/H/E on their car would trade there parts for a stock ones if they could gain 19 hp. Remember torque is what you feel, that kicks you back in your seat and makes driving fun and hp is the force that keeps the motor pulling hard that is why a b16a will catch up and beat a b20. It is very rev happy and with a lightweight flywheel from act, aasco motorsports or act and a good street clutch setup it will keep and beat a b20 all the way down a track. I am not ripping on a b20 because they are damn good motors but revving your car’s rpm’s out to 8,200 rpm’s can be just as fun if not better than having the torque of a b20.
also on that note
vtec is really not as hard as to hook up as everyone thinks it is because if you can wire up a stereo system vtec is a walk in the park.It is 4 wires and one of them is only a ground wire. If you get your motor from a refuitable company like hmotorsonline you will get all the plugs you need and they are gauranteed not to be damaged. I’ll give anyone the pin locations just email me. I have wired vtec for many customers and the longest it has ever taken me is two hours and that is cause I took a long lunch break.
Re: b20 reply
Originally posted by teg_fancy
I am not ripping on a b20 because they are damn good motors but revving your car’s rpm’s out to 8,200 rpm’s can be just as fun if not better than having the torque of a b20.
Would you rather always have the torque and HP (at low end) or always have to rev the shit outta your car?
About the LS manifold…it SUCKS on the b20. You should see the runners on the b20b for the intake. They are actually pretty big. When you put on an LS manifold, those runners are significantly smaller so the bolt up isnt that great, not to mention the small diameter near the throttle body. That is why if you throw a skunk2 manifold on there and some nice headers, the HP will increase dramatically.
you can’t rev a b20 that high, the RS is mess up man, if you rev the mofo to such a high rpm, expect to see a hole on da engine… if i recall correctly, the RS of b16 is like 0.74. and b20 is like 0.56…
redlining a b20 is not as good as a b16… plus, b20 is ODB2… while 90-91 gen2 is either ODB0 or 1… it will be trouble to do all the wiring… plus there is no VTEC on b20!
if i swapped to a b18c in my car… what would i have to do in terms of wireing?
Originally posted by codenamezero
[B]you can’t rev a b20 that high, the RS is mess up man, if you rev the mofo to such a high rpm, expect to see a hole on da engine… if i recall correctly, the RS of b16 is like 0.74. and b20 is like 0.56…
redlining a b20 is not as good as a b16… plus, b20 is ODB2… while 90-91 gen2 is either ODB0 or 1… it will be trouble to do all the wiring… plus there is no VTEC on b20! [/B]
You can rev a B20 exactly like you can a B18a/b as they use the same crank and rods and have the same rs. Theres no vtec on the B18a/b but that does not stop people from building them into strong running cars that will outrun stock vtec cars.
The obd of the B20 does not matter as anything that is obd is used from the donor car not from the B20. Again the ONLY wiring issues with the B20 is the thermosenser wires that must be extended as the switch is in a diff place on the B20.
In the real world a larger motor will normally make more hp than a smaller motor. But honda has rated the hp of the B20 lower than the B18. But hp is made from torque X rpm and the B20 makes great torque and revs the same as the B18. Maybe honda misquoted the hp numbers. But the crv has very restrictive factory manifolds so maybe this is why.
Here is the only dyno chart I have seen:http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/b20/b20dyno.html
reving your vtec can be lots of fun but can also get tiring when you lose the race because you are in the wrong gear and have to get the rpms up before your car will move. The B20 goes when you step on the gas no matter the rpm. Thats why I say the B20 is king of the street and the Vtec is great for a race car.
The intake ports on the B20 are exactly the same as the ports on the same year of B18 because they use the same head. The port mesmatch is only a problem with some B18a motors that had a smaller port size. My 91 B18a had the same port size as my B20. I have seen others that were smaller. I have no idea why some are diff.
hum… maybe i will look more into b20 then… is true, i don’t race anyway lol! i just want a faster car than my current RS…
what motor comes in the current RSX type-S?
i might look into buying one of those whenever i decide to swap
could probaly pick one up for around $4000 brand new with warrenty