What’s up G2? I’m Anthony, 17, and I’ve had my 1990 GS for a few months now. Nothing special, just trying to get it in good running condition.
Pics!!
Alright, my DA will be receiving a Exedy OEM Replacement Clutch tomorrow. Through a lot of searching, I believe that my throwout bearing went bad as well as the clutch release fork spring. And since I am going to have to open up the transmission regardless, I might as well replace the clutch too.
So before I got the Exedy OEM Kit, I ordered a F1 Racing Stage 1 Clutch Kit and a 12 lb Chromoly Flywheel off of gripforce-clutches’ eBay store. I received it, and was able to hear a noise from only one of the springs on the clutch disc when shaking it, it was as if something was loose inside of the spring. This was enough for me to decide to use a different company’s product. I understand that damage could have incurred during shipping, but I’m not taking any chances. Honestly, I was on the fence about buying a $230 clutch kit and flywheel combo, but I bit.
Regrets aside, I am happy that I now have the Exedy unit. I’ll be returning the F1 Racing products soon, and if they cannot confirm and type of defect, I will be charged a 25% restocking fee.
So I got the car back from the shop today! The clutch feels great, I’m glad I went with Exedy. It’s soooo tempting to drive fast, but I’ll be breaking in this clutch properly. Oh, I also had the rear main seal replaced.
My engine has quite a few oil leaks that I would like to fix myself. The valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, cam seals (timing belt side), and crank seal all need to be replaced. It’d be logical to also replace the timing belt, but I’m not very mechanically experienced and money is tight. On top of paying for all of the parts, I would also like to buy a quality torque wrench, which can all add up quickly. I would just hate to have the timing belt fail because of oil contamination… Then I’d have some serious problems to deal with.
One question: is it really necessary to replace the water pump, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley when replacing the timing belt?
yes if youre going to replace the Tbelt, you should really do the waterpump and pulleys at the same time. keeps you from having to do it later and having to buy yet another Tbelt. u might want to change the oil pump as well while youre at it just to be safe.
it isn’t necessary. people say it’s a good thing to do because you’re pretty much at the water pump once the timing belt is off but it’s by no means necessary to change it if it isn’t broken/leaking. same thing for the tensioner. it’s really a preventive maintenance thing. if you do the work yourself, you pretty much end up doing the job twice but that doesn’t really matter. if you pay someone to do it then you’re paying for the job twice and that sucks and that is why you always hear people suggesting to change everything.
As you stated earlier with your clutch, “since your in there, you might as well.” I would definitely just replace all that stuff while your in there the first time and this will hopefully prevent you from having to do it all over again in the near future.
There really isn’t a point in making this post, but the car is down again… I think the alternator is toast. For now, the car sits until I can gather some guap. I want to replace the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, cam seals, crank seal, timing belt, timing belt tensioner pulley, idler pulley, water pump, oil pump (maybe?), alternator, and alternator belt. I might have to get a new battery too. I’ll be going to college in Atlanta in about 2 weeks, so I won’t need a car. But whenever I’m back in town, I’d like to have something to drive.
welcome!