Im 24 and live in northern New Jersey. I started with a 90 LS teggy with a built LS-v back in 2003. About a month after i got it i got tboned in a hit and run, car was totaled. I bought a 92 LS just like it about a year later in 04 and had it since. List of mods
Performance
98 spec Type-R engine
00 spec Type-R cams
Aem cam gears
B16 cable trans with LS 4th and 5th gears
Exedy lightened flywheel
ACT 2800lb full face clutch
Driveshaft shop stage 2 axles
3M window weld mounts
B&M race series shifter with one off brass bushings
DC header
Magnaflow cat
Greddy full catback
Omnipower 1 piece coilovers made to my weight specs
Skunk2 upper control arms
Skunk2 camber kit also (perfect camber with extreme drop)
MFactory roll center adjusters
240sx tie rod ends to correct bumpsteer
Skunk2 rear camber kit
KSPORT rear toe kit
Energy Suspension bushings all around
18x9 wheels with 235 40 18 falken ziex’s
Body
stock paint (for now)
99 Si side skirts
91 front bumper and jdm lip (what can i say i liek the 90-91 better )
amber corners
Interior
All brand new dash pieces from honda (gotta love clean working vents lol)
95 Prelude black leather front seats (most comfortable in the world)
AutoMeter 5" silver tach and shiftlite
Autometer oil psi, volt, and vac/boost gauges
Hurst T Handle shift knob
Sony head unit
2 Kicker Comp 12’s
Kicker Amp
I know it aint the best out there but its mine and i drive it 60 miles into NYC for work daily and never had a issue with her. She’s my baby and wouldnt give her up for the world
(last 2 pics are older and in black and white sorry. This was before the new dash)
18’s? wow. Its looking good but I don’t really understand the monster subs in the back. Probally just me getting old but I thought one ten was enough back in the day but two twelves? Headache…
Also how are those upper control arms working for you, I ask since every one has had problem with them as they where designed for the 88-91 civic and are not DA specific.
yes its a b16 manifold, i ported it out to match i wanted smaller diameter runners for higher velocity.
the subs i have a seperate control for the bass by the radio and keep it down low but its better to run bigger subs and amp and keep it lower then it is to run 1 10 and keep it at its max, maybe thats why it has lasted 4 years?
I hate 16’s. had a set of slipstreams on it. where i live i need to keep the car high. as it sits NOW, with all that clearance, my header scrapes on the road from the curve of the road. any lower and i cant drive anywhere.
so to answer you i could put 16’s on it but would have to crank the suspension up about 1 1/2" - 2".
As far as the JDM lip, a stock 90-91 lip is from japan unless it was bought after getting the car from the dealer. My bumper came from japan so im gonna ASSUME its a JDM lip.
If you use the sliders to mount the control arm you can adjust the caster and correct the whole suspension. The way im set i can adjust caster, camber and toe without even jacking my car up. I did however have to bang out my tower to get the control arm to clear, not because of the arm, but because i ran both camber kits.
As far as my tach, i absolutely love it and need it for when i am running backroads around here. no need to look down at all.
One thing i forgot to mention, i also run Chrome tuning software and do all my tuning myself.
oh i see, ok.
You got the bumper from japan, nice.
Its just because the acronym JDM is thrown around so much that even the smallest things like your lip, i wouldnt believe its “jdm”
go on myspace, or other forums, online shops, “jdm” is used for everything, from aftermarket cheap ebay coilovers, “jdm silver coilovers, $50” shet like that.
With the 240 sx tie rod ends you have to use a multibit (looks like a christmas tree) drill bit and drill your spindle out where the tie rod bolts in. basically your tie rod is a tapered end, so it goes in and seats tight. the 240 tie rod is tapered also. instead of putting the tie rod into the spindle from the top of the hole, the 240 end goes in from the bottom. so what you have to do is make the hole bigger on the bottom side and smaller on the top instead of the factory way. the small end of the 240 tie rod is the same size as the big end on the stock one so it works perfect.
what this does is changes the angle the tie rod is compared to level. think of it like this. your suspension as designed form the factory, the tie rod sits perfectly level. when you lower a car, the tie rod angle compared to level is off. essencially the tie rod does not go straight to the spindle. by placing the tie rod end UNDER the spindle and not over, you are straightening the line again. this improves the bumpsteer, which is caused by un-level tie rod’s and hitting the bump makes the wheels turn even tho you hold the steering wheel straight… Very complicated and very hard to explain but those of you who know suspension geometry have probably fought with bumpsteer at some point or another. this is NOT reccomended for beginners and should NOT be tried. it can be very dangerous playign with suspensions if you dont know what you are doing to your car. best option is to find someone who specializes in custom suspensions to do something like this for you.
i know EVERYTHING is labeled “jdm”. from now on ill say i got it from japan
im not new to the game, been doing this for years. ive ordered 79 full swaps from h-motors over the years. im slowly getting out of the game because kids now-a-days see things on ebay cheap and i HATE cheap stuff. i believe in doing things right… the FIRST time.
As far as the Type-R, its disappointing. ive built too many big nice cars tho. 3 of my latest projects are…
REAR engine CRX (me and a friend built cant take all the credit)
8 second NHRA spec crx. LS-V built 35 lb’s and tuned by Jeff Evans
Street legal 9 second 92 bubble
so the teggy is very, mild, lets say. i do have plans for it but money is tied up in other things so it will wait, again, for me to have some fun with it.
The Type-R is NOT worth the money IMO. The same money could be spent to build a much better GS-R or LS-V. Set of Manley rods and Weisco pistons in a LS block with a B16 head would be a lot cheaper then the Type-R. I got it because i couldnt pass the deal up, only reason. Type-R is much like “JDM” now adays. Gets used on everything for hondas and kids want it just for the damn name. I picked mine up for $500 out of a wrecked CRX i did the swap on. Intake manifold was broken thats also why i have a b16 one on there, didnt feel like spending the big bucks for a “Type-R” one. If i had my perfect engine i would take a b18a1 block and crank, Manley h beam rods, weisco pistons, sleeved .0010 over, stock LS bearings, b16 head with crower springs, retainers, valves, 00 spec Type-R cams, AEM cam gears, Edelbrock Victor-X intake man. Thats my perfect setup and would run about $2500 all said and done vs the 3-4k spent on a Type-R that has half the potential of that setup
Nice ride man. I love the creativity you have into it.
I was thinking about picking up a set of Manley rods and what not for me car. Local hot rod performance shop suggests them. Also have a friend that works there and has them in a B20 vtec. I looked at the rods before he installed them and they are built strong! Plus i get a kinda sorta discount there.
Im not a big fan of those rims, or the tach either. But to one there own, i wont critisize.
I used to use Eagle rods and had nothing but problems with them. Changed over to Manley’s and never had one issue. They are definately worth at least looking into for any build
Well on one LS-V i built i used them and had to actually grind groves in the bottom of cylendars 1 and 4 to get the rods to clear, on a boosted LS-V i had them in for about 2k miles and 2 rods went at the same time, (yes good oil psi and all that, was just rod failure), a type-r running 6 lbs of boost had one let go. Just never really had good luck with them. Manley’s on the other hand, have always held together great on anything we have used them on
It’s cool to know that 2 front camber kits and flipping tie rods works. I’ve thought about doing both before, but I didn’t know what tie rods to use to make it work. What year 240 did your come from?
yes that style bit, gotta find one that matches the slant of the tie rod end. i got the ends for a late 80’s early 90’s 240. ill see if i can dig up the part numbers somewhere.
can i ask you were you found the bushings for the b&n short shifter. mine are shot and i cant stand it. also im looking into getting a new valve cover for my b20 p8r build and i really like your type r valve. sorry im new to this but i was wondering if that would be able to fit my setup. id prefer my stock valve cover and just have it stripped and tampered to like a bronze or preferably gunmetal but i wouldn’t know were to start. thanks!
oh! another random question for anyone. that type r head, (remember im a noob) but it looks just like that one out of my friends s2000, there not the same are they?
Sorry if I am dumb, but how will 16" wheels make your car ride lower? The outer diameter of the tire should remain pretty much the same from wheel to wheel, unless of course you are talking about putting 35 series tires on a 16"? Makes no sense to me… 204/45/16 vs 205/35/18. I know it always varies, but a couple of millimeters hardly means your car is 1.5-2" lower?
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