wats the next mod i should do to my car, i already go the normal stuff i/h/e and sum chiped computer shit that i got a deal on…im tryin to get my times at the track down.so0o far all i can get is a 15.7 but i think im shifting to high and coming out of the power band…wat do you guys think i can do n if you guys can give me any tip for at the track that would b nice also…ill post sum pics if i can find them. thanks
get some slicks and see were your realy at.
my firiend lowered his time by a almost 2 secs by doin a full tune up, but he also got an msd blaster 3 coil, ngk race plug wires, and iridium plugs. i lowered my time by puttin in new plugs, plug wires and a new distrubitor cap and rotoator, i ran a 15.9 with a stock jdm b20b but i do have a cat back and had almost a full tank of gas and almost all my interior minus the passenger seats and the back rest for the rear seats and no spare tire.
yea im constant with the 15.7 i cant get any lower but i never ran it withthis computer but it better make a big diffrence…i wanna do a compression test on it but im not quite sure how it goes …what would a ls normally run with those mods and when should i be shifting.i usually take it 2 6500 but i think im taking it too far
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If you want to get serious about making your car fast quit wasting money on tune ups every other time you go to the track, and bolt ons.
1.Get a real, programmable computer
2.Pick up a used long block to minimize the down time associated with an engine build.
3.Rebuild it. if you don’t have smog regulations and want to stay non-vtec, get some arp rod bolts, pr3 pistons, have the head rebuilt, have the head ported by a reputable shop, get some crower 403 or 404 cams, have the stock manifold port matched, then get it dyno tuned.
4.Buy a real header
5.get yourself a short geared transmission, preferably with an LSD and have it rebuilt.
6.Get yourself some decent axles and some slicks.
7.learn how to drive straight the right way.
yea well i do got a whole other engine that will be getting rebuilt and sleeved and what not im gonna boost it…my head gettin rebuilt by my friend who works at a mechine shop n hes only charging me for the valve guides…3 angle valve job and ported and polished…o0o n by the way what do u meen get a reall header whats a real header to you…4-2-1 or 4-1 cuz if im rite doesnt the 4-1 header give u more tourque or sumthing like that…and i have a phantom grip lsd installed also soo im gonna get a stage 2 clutch but unasure what kind a flywheel to get…o0 and dont the header from a b16 fit on a b18a
Your posts give me a headache when I try to read them. using whole words really isn’t that difficult. By real header I meant something from hy-tech or a similar company who makes headers that actually work on high output NA motors. Since you would like to turbocharge your engine, that is irrelevant. Just remember, a pretty shiny port doesn’t necessarily make power.
sory for typing really short i usually get on while im at work …but the main topic of the tread was about what the next mod of the car should be but since i was goin to turbo it next spring …what are some decent things i could do to make more power but not waste any money b/c of the turbo …but do you guys think that is a decent time for a ls with normal additions…sory for dumb ass questions and the headaches i give you guys but im just not sure
Those are decent times to run. just keep saving your money so that when you do go turbo you can do it right the first time.
“sum chiped computer shit that i got a deal on”
new car? lol
Nothing. If your going to turbo, save money for it.
yea the computer i got i dont know much about i got it off this kid for 50.00 when he paid 250 for it im not sure the specs on it or anything but the revlimiter is way to high or if it even has 1 on it but i did notice a big diffrence in power…the car idles at 1000 rpms and has a big diffrence in pick up especially on the highway. in 4th gear at 4000 rpms at 60mph smash the pedal by the time i hit 6000 rpms im at 115mph to me it has more power than before but i never ran it at the track yet but i will on friday down at cecil county md…but the revlimiter mite have been removed because after i put it in and let it all reprogram itself i took the rpms way to high for a stock internal b18 wich was a lil past 8k im lucky i didnt kill the engine rite there but im not to sure on it…when do you guys shift at when you run at the track cuz i usually shift at 6500 every gear
Computers that remove rev limiters altogether are crap. get your 50 back and put your stock one back in. then take that money and put it towards an ECU that is programable. About shifting, you need to experiment. I wouldn’t go higher than 7000 or lower than 6000rpm. every car is going to be a little different on the track. just as every car will respond a little bit differently than the next to modifications. there is no way to say, if you shift at XXXX rpm or do this mod your car will hit low 15s. all I can say is make sure your tires are inflated to 30-35 psi just like they would be when you’re driving around town.
You mean ~28-29 psi since that is stock specs.
^what he said:)
yea im not 100% sure if the revlimiter is gone or not but i would like to get it socketed so i can chip it or whatever but i donno how much that usually cost to buy the kit adn have a pro put the socket in or by 1 that is socketed… how much are they usually
check out Xenocron’s thread in the sponsor section. I haven’t used his services but I’ve heard good things about him on here.