ook so i just spent my weekend doing my none abs conversion. i used non abs lines and a 40/40 from a doner car. the master cylinder and brake booster are BOTH new “re-maned” NON-abs components. after everything was installed and all the air removed from lines i started the car and noticed my idle was high… and as i pushed on the pedal my idle would change dramatically and i have a very hard pedal. could the re-maned booster be bad? or is the used 40/40 valve the culprit… im out of ideas.
now that i think about it, i remember when bleeding the brakes the right rear shot out the fluid with way more pressure than the left rear did…
maybe thats a sign that the valve is clogged and the booster has to work harder to get fluid pressure past the blockage… witch in turn uses more vacuum and affects engine idle…?
I’ve done the abs delete on my gs now going for 4 years no issues. I did have a bad booster so I replaced my oem abs booster and new master cylinder, bleed the mc right and after adjustments it all went in. Start the car and it was idling at 2200even after a 5 min drive the lowest it went was 1,500.
I had to turn down the idle screw on the throttle body that fixed it for me.
Took me like 2 days to get it set by eye ball.
Let the car warm up till the fan starts before you tune it.
Then adjust it by half turns at a time with engine off, then restart.
For some reason it worked best for me to dial it in after fully warm and then shutting it off instead of adjusting it while on. Every time I had it dialed in while running then started the engine be off from where I set it.
That would not be a sign of a bad booster. A bad booster should effect all 4 corners the same way. Since your problem is isolated at one corner I’d be looking into components which act independently on that corner. Is there no pressure at the bleed screw or no pressure at the caliper? If there is pressure to the caliper but not the bleed screw then it could just be as simple as a clogged/damaged bleed screw. If you’re not getting any pressure to the caliper then the problem would be further upstream - a clogged/damaged line or possibly a problem with the prop valve.
I’d start a the caliper and move upstream. Since you’re not getting pressure when you loosen the bleed screw you can try removing the screw entirely - does fluid pour out when the brakes are applied? If so then the problem is the screw. If not, disconnect the brake line from the caliper - does fluid pour out when the brakes are applied? If so, then the problem is in the caliper. If not, then disconnect the soft (rubber) brake line from the hard brake line - does fluid pour out when the brakes are applied? If so, then the problem is with the soft brake line. Etc…etc… you can follow that basic procedure to isolate one component at a time until you’ve figured out what’s going on and where in the system the fluid is being blocked.
[QUOTE=Colin;2326982]That would not be a sign of a bad booster. A bad booster should effect all 4 corners the same way. Since your problem is isolated at one corner I’d be looking into components which act independently on that corner. Is there no pressure at the bleed screw or no pressure at the caliper? If there is pressure to the caliper but not the bleed screw then it could just be as simple as a clogged/damaged bleed screw. If you’re not getting any pressure to the caliper then the problem would be further upstream - a clogged/damaged line or possibly a problem with the prop valve.
I’d start a the caliper and move upstream. Since you’re not getting pressure when you loosen the bleed screw you can try removing the screw entirely - does fluid pour out when the brakes are applied? If so then the problem is the screw. If not, disconnect the brake line from the caliper - does fluid pour out when the brakes are applied? If so, then the problem is in the caliper. If not, then disconnect the soft (rubber) brake line from the hard brake line - does fluid pour out when the brakes are applied? If so, then the problem is with the soft brake line. Etc…etc… you can follow that basic procedure to isolate one component at a time until you’ve figured out what’s going on and where in the system the fluid is being blocked.[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the information. Helps a lot! Before I get into this are these the correct lines routed? Third post down that has the picture. From the link provided the bottom right port, I flared that line to accept the m12 fitting to the rear port of the mc. Just to make sure the lines are routed correctly
[QUOTE=mar_phi6;2326986]Thanks for the information. Helps a lot! Before I get into this are these the correct lines routed? Third post down that has the picture. From the link provided the bottom right port, I flared that line to accept the m12 fitting to the rear port of the mc. Just to make sure the lines are routed correctly
http://honda-tech.com/suspension-brakes-54/how-brake-line-tuck-guidelines-2103425/page44/[/QUOTE]
Maybe try that link again? Post #3 on page 44 has no photos. If I understand how the system works it doesn’t actually matter if you switch the lines at the master cylinder. Each of these lines goes to the prop valve where the pressure is “proportioned” between the front and rear. Each port on the master cylinder isn’t responsible for either front or rear, each port is responsible for one front brake and one rear brake and the master cylinder shouldn’t care whether it’s the left or right. It’d be nice for someone more knowledgeable on master cylinders and proportioning valves to confirm this though.
According to the Helms manual (pg 19-12) the rear port on the master cylinder is the M12 and feeds the right front and left rear brakes. The front port is the M10 and feeds the left front and right rear.
And in fact if you look at the manuals for EF’s and DA’s you’ll see that the master cylinder ports connect to different ports on the prop valve. All of the other ports on the prop valve go to the same corners of the car but the two which feed to the master cylinder are simply swapped. And from what I understand people install Integra master cylinders in EF’s all the time so this would support the assumption that you could swap those two with no issues.
[QUOTE=Colin;2326987]Maybe try that link again? Post #3 on page 44 has no photos. If I understand how the system works it doesn’t actually matter if you switch the lines at the master cylinder. Each of these lines goes to the prop valve where the pressure is “proportioned” between the front and rear. Each port on the master cylinder isn’t responsible for either front or rear, each port is responsible for one front brake and one rear brake and the master cylinder shouldn’t care whether it’s the left or right. It’d be nice for someone more knowledgeable on master cylinders and proportioning valves to confirm this though.
According to the Helms manual (pg 19-12) the rear port on the master cylinder is the M12 and feeds the right front and left rear brakes. The front port is the M10 and feeds the left front and right rear.
And in fact if you look at the manuals for EF’s and DA’s you’ll see that the master cylinder ports connect to different ports on the prop valve. All of the other ports on the prop valve go to the same corners of the car but the two which feed to the master cylinder are simply swapped. And from what I understand people install Integra master cylinders in EF’s all the time so this would support the assumption that you could swap those two with no issues.[/QUOTE]
What is the order of bleeding brakes for our da’s? Is it RR, LR,RF,LF?
Again… this info is contained within your factory service manual, page 19-10. When originally taught by my father he taught me to work from the corner furthest from the master cylinder to the corner closest to the master cylinder. But for our cars the order is related to which systems are connected - as posted previously the LF & RR come from the same port on the mc, as do the RF & LR. So I think the idea is to fully bleed one of those systems then move to the next. So the order is RR, LF, LR, RF.
Well I got it fixed. The Right front brake hose was clogged and the brake master cylinder seal was cracked was the culpit of my non abs conversion. So I replace both at the same time and brake bleed it twice and everything is working great. What a learning experience. Sucks to have just one car and no backup car. Oh well life lesion.
