No cabin heat...

Searched, but I can’t find a solution to my problem, and it’s really got me confused.

So, I replaced the thermostat (Honda OEM), re-filled the cooling system with fresh coolant mix and I am getting no heat from inside the car. Now, I don’t know if the heat worked before (I bought the car this summer), but it sure ain’t working now. Things I know:

  • Temp gauge is close to half-way mark
  • Upper and lower heater core hoses are hot (~70 C)
  • Upper and lower rad hoses are hot (~70 C)
  • Some resistance is felt when squeezing the upper rad hose, leading me to believe the system is pressurized.
  • Control cables are OK, the heater valve is in the full open position.

Yet, no heat in the cabin at all, even after running the car for 45 minutes. As you can see, I’m stumped, all indications say that the heater core is not clogged, and all the right hoses are warm. Any suggestions? :think:

is the blower working?

Yup, blower works on all settings, blows tons of cold air, no problem. All the vent control positions work fine too.

did you bleed the coolant? i had something similar when i was low in coolant was low and in effect the air was circulating within the cooling system which was cold. the other part you should check is that the heater core is connected.

Air in the system would be my first guess as well. Specifically, an air pocket in the heater core itself, preventing coolant from circulating through it.

Hmm, that makes sense to me, I’ve tried everything else.

What’s the best way to get the air out?

The absolute best way is to leave the bleeder valve open at the thermostat while slowly filling the system, then closing the valve once you get a steady stream of coolant. That way the air gets forced out at the high point of the system. So you could drop the level a bit, then refill. Make sure the heater control is turned to the full hot setting when you fill it, so that the heater core is “open” and any air can escape.

Another trick is to leave the rad cap off (make sure the radiator is cool first), then run the engine for a bit. That allows air to escape out the filler neck. I don’t usually find that to be necessary though.

My first thought would have been the heater core…but then I also like to go for the harder things first.

here is what the book says on that problem for you (no hot air flow)

  1. clogged heater ducts
  2. clogged blower outlet
  3. clogged heater valve
  4. faulty air mix door operation
  5. air mix cable misadjusted
  6. faulty thermostat

[QUOTE=GoGreen;2189424]The absolute best way is to leave the bleeder valve open at the thermostat while slowly filling the system, then closing the valve once you get a steady stream of ccolant. That way the air gets forced out at the high point of the system. So you could drop the level a bit, then refill. Make sure the heater control is turned to the full hot setting when you fill it, so that the heater core is “open” and any air can escape.

Another trick is to leave the rad cap off (make sure the radiator is cool first), then run the engine for a bit. That allows air to escape out the filler neck. I don’t usually find that to be necessary though.[/QUOTE]

what i like to do is the following:

turn full heat on, highest fan
park the car on level ground
take off the rad cap
start the car and leave it to idle

as the car warms up, the thermostant will open. all air will come up through the open rad cap. add collant as the level goes down

most of the time when people face this kind of symtoms it usually is the heater core valve is stuck close but if your sure that is not the case i would say something is clog and i would start with the heater core

if the valve isn’t stuck or clogged, and the temperature gauge reads where it should, it’s most likely the heater core. i assume you have access to a temp gun. with the engine at operating temp, heat turned on to max, measure the temp of the inlet hose to the heater core, then, the outlet hose. the temperatures should be roughly the same. if the outlet is cooler, you have a blocked core. if this is the case, as it may take significant time to replace, you can try blowing it out with compressed air. remove the inlet and outlet hoses. blow into the OUTLET tube of the core and out the inlet. sometimes you can get a lot of the sludge out. sometimes it’s hardened scale and won’t come out. it’s a last ditch effort before needing to remove the dash

Well, thanks for all the suggestions. As it turns out, the solution was so simple, I can’t believe I didn’t think of it in the first place. The cable had slipped off the air mix door, so no hot air was being directed through the vents. Cable was reattached and voila, hot air! darussianone’s checklist items 4 and 5 definitely helped me come to that discovery.

Again, thanks for all your suggestions and ideas! Hopefully if anyone in the future has the same problem, this thread will help them as well!

lol what is messed up the most about is when there is no heat, you see people walking outside looking warmer then you are being in a car. I took my cousins drag built crx around the block and made me almost want to set a camp fire in the trunk. I felt my leg shankin to death workin the clutch