no fuel no ignition, good main relay and good coil.

ASSISTANCE Stock Engine-Bay Components
1

So my car wouldn’t start the other day so i figured id test the main relay because i had no spark or fuel. It tested fine but i picked up a new relay for fun and it still has the issue…i tested the coil and its good and in spec read .8 ohm for primary and 13,876 for secondary. There’s power to the pos and neg wires that go on the a and b terminals

(I used my meter and had a friend crank it and it went from 12.8 volts then dropped to 9.?? so it has power and ground)

but when i put the coil back in and hook it up my meter read no voltage at all…Could it be the Ignition lock from the anti theft? any input would help thanks guys in advance. also if i did anything wrong or you think i did let me know.

2

So its not cranking over or anything? Or its cranking but not firing up?

If nothing is happening it could be your ignition switch. Thats a pretty common problem.

3

It’s cranking like normal but no firing up. The dash lights all work. And also my insterment panel fuse kept blowing before this all happened

4

what year?
checked for codes?
checked your ecu fuse?

if good, check your thermostat housing ground.
if good, check for crank signal at the ecu. no crank signal= no fuel no ignition
check for codes first. always

5

codes when there’s no way to check unless te led blinks on the ecu… There’s no blinking ita obdo… No jumper connectors

6

a solid cel is indicative of an ecu issue.
have you checked:
ecu fuse?
power at the ecu fuse?
powers and grounds at the ecu?
checked for crank signal?
as i’d mentioned previously, without crank signal the ecu will not permit fuel or ignition.
the ecu will have 2 powers (one constant and one keyed) and 3 grounds.
find an ecu pinout for your car and test for the 2 powers, 3 grounds and crank signal

7

Ok I said in my post it cranks. No fuel no spark every part of the system has been tested. Ecu is perfect (tried another one) I have a new coil in it a new ignition module and te ignition switch is working correctly( yes I tested it with a meter) all fuses tested good al relays including main relay (which I replaced as the first thing) tested good I’m completely stumped I checked every ground in the system and they all test fine…I’m stumped I do get how it could be this hard to find a darting issue

8

I also tested the ecu internal ground from the Pinout that was all copecetic

9

i know it cranks. i’m referring to crank signal. did you check for crank signal at the ecm?
i’ll bet you check for crank signal, and you won’t have it. you’ve checked pretty much everything else

10

update?

11

i say check the jumper on ur diz

12

also if ur volts dropp i thnk i have a bad ground

13

As mentioned by welfare, check for crank signal at ECU/ECM at the same time check for power at IGP1 and IGP2 at ECU/ECM, with ign. switch in both the run and start positions.

You also said the PGM-FI Main Relay was good and you have replaced it, have you checked wiring to it?

Do you have the 3 powers to the the relay(s), 12V constant, [hot at all times] 12V switched, [hot in run and start] 12V switched, [hot when cranking to start only]?

How about the ground to the PGM-FI Main Relay, does it have full continuity to chassis ground?

What year and trim level is your G2? 94

14

Im dealing with a similar issue (CEL all the time) and have tried a few different ECUs with no luck, just moving to the next steps.

How would you do this? With a multimeter I assume at the ECU connection? If so can you recommend a reliable way to check for the signal? My multimeter probes are too large to fit in the pin area of the connector.

at the same time check for power at IGP1 and IGP2 at ECU/ECM, with ign. switch in both the run and start positions.

Are these locations on the connector?

What year and trim level is your G2?

Its a 92 GSR

Thanks!

15

could be the igniter?

16

not likely

Anyone know how to get in touch with fcm?

I sent an email and it was returned, said that the mailbox was unavailable…