Alright the other day I took off my driver side door panel to put some silicone spray on the window slider. When I got home, the window didn’t want to roll down. Today I tried to fix it but I got nowhere. Here’s the problem. The person that had it before me messed with all the wiring. The ground for the driver window (black wire) was hacked and spliced to the passenger ground (black wire). I split them apart and soldered the wires back the right way. The drivers window still doesn’t want to roll down. I took the window switch apart and cleaned the contacts to make sure the switch is working properly. So what I did was depin the driver ground from the window switch harness and switched it with the passenger window wire pin. Window rolls up… but passenger doesn’t. That’s where I stopped since I don’t have a wiring diagram. All the fuses are ok. Any body have any ideas?
There should be 6 black leads going to the drivers door main switch, [4 if it is a 2door] you can not mix them up.
Two of them are ground inputs, one is the pass, window(s) ground, it goes through the main switch, the other is the drivers window switch ground.
The others are outputs to the pass window switches, 2 on a 2door and 4 on a 4door.
So question is do you have a 2door or a 4door?
Assuming it is a 2door, to find the correct leads you will need a multimeter or a 12V test light, unplug the drivers door switch and test the black leads, two of them should have full continuity to chassis ground, those are the ground inputs, the other two should not have any continuity to chassis ground, they are outputs output to pass window switch.
The power window system on our cars are “Ground At Rest/Polarity Reversing”, meaning both leads going to the window motors are grounds when the switch is at rest, [not rocked for up or down] when you rock a switch for up or down, the ground is "lifted’ off one of the leads and power is supplied, [window moves in one direction] flip the switch the other way and the ground is "lifted’ off the other lead and power is supplied, [window moves in the other direction].
Powers are supplied directly to the switch, fuse 7 - 20A for drivers window switch, fuse 2 - 20A for pass. switch in both drivers and pass. doors.
The ground(s) for the pass. window switch in pass. door is supplied by the pass. switch in the drivers door, [from chassis ground through the main switch, through the pass. switch in drivers door to the pass. door switch]
The leads from the pass. switch in the drivers door to the switch in pass. door are both black at the pass. switch in drivers door but are blue/yellow and blue/green at the pass. door switch.
To troubleshoot power window problems, start at the leads going to the window motors, red/blue and red/yellow for drivers door and blue/white and blue/red for pass. door, test these leads at the motor plugs, they should all test as grounds, [full continuity to chassis ground], if good…
Next test each of the leads for power when the switch is rocked for up and down, if good…
Next test for polarity reversing, set meter to DC volts and connect meter test probs to each of the two leads at the motor plug, or if you are using a test light connect the test light ground to one of the leads and the test light probe to the other lead, in both cases it makes no diff. which probs/ground you connect which leads, rock the switch for up and down, meter or test light should indecate voltage when switch is rocked for up and/or down.
Let me know what you get or not get and we can go from there. 94
I have a 2 door. Thanks fcm for helping me out. I remember only seeing 2 black ground wires on the main window switch. I checked the ground (black) wires with a test light and one lit up and I think the other one lit up when I hit the switch, not really sure. I did that yesterday. Would I rule out the passenger blue/green wires that are goung throught the door going to the main harness and focus on the red/yellow wires for the door? Also is it a possiblity the pins were mixed up in the main window switch? I’m out of town and will be back Thursday night. Ill keep you posted.
There must be two grounds, [black] one is the ground for the drivers window switch the other is the ground for the pass. window switch, it goes through the main switch before it goes to the pass. switch, [child safety feature], if you have a “ground” that is effected by a switch it is not a chassis ground, [input ground] it is an output from the drivers side to the pass. side, there should be two of them from the pass. switch in drivers door to the switch in the pass. door, they change color, from blacks at the drivers door switch to a blue/green and a blue/yellow at the pass. door switch.
Both the blue/green and the blue/yellow, at pass door switch should test as grounds when pass. switch in drivers door is at rest and main switch is on, they will switch to powers when you rock the pass. switch in drives door for up and down. 94
Sorry I took so long to reply. I’ve been busy and finally had time to work on the car. So today I tested the wires with a 12v test light. Here is what i came up with. I tested the wires at the driver window switch harnes.
Passenger wires=
blue/black- on all the time
blue/yellow- on going up
blue/green- on going down
yellow/white- on all the time
black1- doesnt turn on
Driver Wires=
red/yellow- on when rocked
red/blue- on when rocked
blue- on when rocked
black2- on when rocked
my car is a 2 door and I’m having a similar issue. I just bought a switch off ebay so i dont know if it is fully functional. i can get the passenger side to roll up and down. the driver’s side doesnt move. i know the drivers side motor is good because i can roll both windows up/down by touching the appropriate wires together (i’ve been doing that for a while). There are 2 black wires on the harness from the switch but only one black wire coming from group of wires the door.However, the one black wire from door is actually split into two wires. i can either connect one of the black wires from the switch to either the black wire from door or ground it out on door and get it to work. the other black wire from harness doesnt do anything no matter where i put it. i’m just curious if i’m somehow missing the wire that goes to driver’s side window from the door. if im not missing a wire then are the black wires from the harness supposed to be connected the one black wire from the door? Here is a picture of the black wire from the door…
My issue is that there are 9 wires from the switch and 8 wires coming from my door. There are two black wires on the switch and only one black wire coming from the door (although it has been split into two). Where does the extra black wire go that is coming from the switch? reading the wiring diagram from haynes just makes me more confused. both windows will roll up via me manually touching wires together. shouldnt that mean im getting power where it needs to be going and im just not hooking it up right?
nevermind. it was a blown fuse