So I tried another p06 ecu and still got the CKP code 4, o2 sensor code 41, electric load detector code 20.
I have searched code 20 and I am not too concerned with code 41, however, code 4 seems to be the issue to make my car run like absolute crap once I go obd1. At least it has started. Funny thing is my ecu (won’t start with mine) is chipped with Neptune. I cut the resistor on j21? I believe it is? To make it back to stock and it started.
My chipped ecu is just fine, used it on my brother’s car with no problem. Perhaps jumper harness is messed up? I will try to get a hold of another one from a friend.
Oh man, this thread is getting tough to follow! I gotta walk myself thru it…
I agree with you Drew, this test seems to point to his ECU being the problem.
Then next he’s able to get it started with a different p06 - but it throws codes and runs shitty. Another sign that it’s his original ECU that is the problem.
[QUOTE=slow_low_eddie;2323926]So I tried another p06 ecu and still got the CKP code 4, o2 sensor code 41, electric load detector code 20.
I have searched code 20 and I am not too concerned with code 41, however, code 4 seems to be the issue to make my car run like absolute crap once I go obd1. At least it has started. [/quote]
OK, but then this next test seems to point to the ECU being OK but there being a problem with the chip or installation of the chip. Then the problems with the codes and how it runs would be unrelated to the ECU/no start issues.
This next test looks to prove that the chip or chip installation is the cause of the no start. The original chipped p06 does not work in this car but does work now in 2 cars after returning it to stock specs. Assuming that the car ran OK and didn’t throw the same codes then the ECU should be OK and all the other problems are based off something other than the ECU and the ECU problem was only causing the no start condition.
I’d get a new ECU or get a new chip put into your existing one. Then tackle getting rid of those codes. ELD and O2 are probably pretty straight forward issues from the conversion that are easily wrapped up. CKP is going to be in the distributor or wiring related to the distributor. This brings us back to possibly a bad distributor, adapter harness or other associated wiring. Put a known good ECU in the car and then start testing other distributors and jumper harnesses, check all the wiring for cracks or bad connections, check all the pins for damage/debris. That’s where I’d start.
just to add to colin’s suggestion, sometimes a bad connection, loose pin, partially broken wire under insulation, etc…can hide itself by the simple act of disconnecting and reconnecting the component(s). so typically i like to try it 3 times with the same result before condemning. as well, slightly wiggling or tugging the connection. only slightly. usually only takes a few minutes, but can save you big time on headaches
Very good point to make. I also never trust just one test, especially when you’re swapping so many parts over a period of time like this. I’ve had WAY too many coincidental things happen that lead you astray that I try to isolate one thing at a time, check and double check
