1991 acura integra
I have a jumper harness obd0-obd1, obd1 distributor and obd1 chipped ECU with a base map.
I have spark, I tried my ecu and a friend’s. Also tried a friend’s jumper harness and mine as well. Car just cranks over. Switch it back to everything obd0 and it starts no problem.
I did notice a cel code of 6 ECT comes on when I plug in my buddy’s ecu. However, when my ecu is plugged in, I get no cel.
Can anyone please help me out with this?!
Hmm, that seems very strange.
Even if the ECT sensor is faulty this should not prevent the car from starting. However if some wires are crossed that could be an issue but doesn’t seem likely if it only happens with 1 ecu. You could try again with the ECT sensor disconnected but I doubt that’ll make a difference.
[QUOTE=Colin;2323670]Hmm, that seems very strange.
Even if the ECT sensor is faulty this should not prevent the car from starting. However if some wires are crossed that could be an issue but doesn’t seem likely if it only happens with 1 ecu. You could try again with the ECT sensor disconnected but I doubt that’ll make a difference.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=slow_low_eddie;2323674]-
If he is still running the peak and hold injectors that came stock then he will need the resistor box. The question I’m wondering is why did he change to OBD1. There might be more to the story that we don’t know. Maybe there is a swap or something and if it came from a OBD1 car then you could be correct about the resistor box.
Well, the motor is from the stock b18a1 just with pr3 pistons. I decided to run an obd1 ecu so I can run a base map for the car. Only reason why honestly. I have a few buddie’s in town, all with obd0 Integra’s and they simply converted to just obd1 distributor and ecu. I’m sure they still have the resistor box. I can ask just to be sure.
Actually now that I remember I had another obd1 ecu chipped for my car. It was running with the obd1 ecu and distributor. Then I comverted back to obd0 (just ecu and distributor) since I gave the distributor back to a friend of mine since he got his car together. So, I highly doubt the injectors are the problem. I did see spark, I hear fuel. Maybe a short somewhere?
[QUOTE=slow_low_eddie;2323674]
You still didn’t answer regarding how you’re hooking up your distributor - you said you’re using a jumper at the ECU, but how are you connecting your distributor? If you’re using another jumper harness then it could also be at fault.
[QUOTE=Colin;2323702]You’re confused about this. The ECT “Sensor” has absolutely nothing to do with your fans, the ECT “Sensor” only sends signal to the ECU so that the ECU knows the coolant temp. This system and wiring is 100% separate from your cooling fan system. There is an ECT “Switch” which is used to turn the fans on/off. There is also an ECT “Sending Unit” which gives your temperature gauge it’s info. All 3 of these systems are 100% isolated from each other. :search: if you need more details. But either way none of these 3 items should be causing the car not to start unless there’s a wire crossed with a more critical component. But that doesn’t make sense if the car runs with the OBD0 setup.
You still didn’t answer regarding how you’re hooking up your distributor - you said you’re using a jumper at the ECU, but how are you connecting your distributor? If you’re using another jumper harness then it could also be at fault.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, I always get them all confused, haha. The obd1 distributor was cut at both plugs, got the plugs from a obd0 distributor, followed the wiring diagram and soldered all the wires together. So it can literally just be plug and play onto my obd0 engine harness. I can show pictures if needed.
I would double and triple check that wiring. It’s extremely easy to mix up the wires because of different colors on non-oem distributors and the fact that certain wire colors fade over time and can be very easily mixed up. I wish I had been able to warn you earlier because that is not the best way to wire up the distributor. Cutting/splicing not only looks bad but if you screw up it’s not as easy to fix. Plus now that you’re spliced OBD0 wiring onto your dist you can’t test it on another OBD1 car. Sounded like you have some friends who converted to OBD1, can you test your dist on their cars now? I wasn’t 100% clear if you’ve tested the dist before or after you did the splicing.
The best way to wire up the dist is to depin the OBD0 connector from your engine harness and use the connector from an OBD1 engine harness to pin to the harness. This way you don’t modify the distributor and any off the shelf OBD1 dist will just swap right in. Makes troubleshooting easy and the look is much better.
[QUOTE=Colin;2323707]I would double and triple check that wiring. It’s extremely easy to mix up the wires because of different colors on non-oem distributors and the fact that certain wire colors fade over time and can be very easily mixed up. I wish I had been able to warn you earlier because that is not the best way to wire up the distributor. Cutting/splicing not only looks bad but if you screw up it’s not as easy to fix. Plus now that you’re spliced OBD0 wiring onto your dist you can’t test it on another OBD1 car. Sounded like you have some friends who converted to OBD1, can you test your dist on their cars now? I wasn’t 100% clear if you’ve tested the dist before or after you did the splicing.
The best way to wire up the dist is to depin the OBD0 connector from your engine harness and use the connector from an OBD1 engine harness to pin to the harness. This way you don’t modify the distributor and any off the shelf OBD1 dist will just swap right in. Makes troubleshooting easy and the look is much better.[/QUOTE]
Yeah, trust, I’m anal as hell. I spliced but I connected, soldered, covered with tape and plastic tube, really does look OEM haha. Anyway, I know the wires can fade and even aftermarket distributors have different colors that’s why I just went with the diagram that just labeled which wire goes to which wire with a number. Instead of matching colors. Although all colors matched except for one and two. What gets me is that my friend’s distributor ran an obd1 ecu on my car before so I know his wiring is correct. However, doesn’t hurt to quadruple check and I will do just that.
dang colin, your on g2ic everyday, all day huh! lol
glad to see your always happy to help and share the knowledge!
Okay, so this is the diagram that I will be testing last. I have searched like crazy, and apparently everyone says that obd0 has just about every single wire the same color except for 1 or 2. If I recall correctly, I remember following the diagram that I uploaded a picture of a while back and it worked for me. Anyone know the correct wiring? I’m waiting to meet with a buddy that has a distributor jumper harness or I may just order one online.
there are 2 wires that are different between obd0 and1. fat white and little white need to be swapped. or sthg like that. it was so many years ago. but i do remember they all transfer over except the 2 wires honda decided to swap.
you don’t need to take out the resistor box. as long as you’re running low imp. injectors. in fact, you’d burn out the drivers in the ecm if you did
[QUOTE=welfare;2323747]there are 2 wires that are different between obd0 and1. fat white and little white need to be swapped. or sthg like that. it was so many years ago. but i do remember they all transfer over except the 2 wires honda decided to swap.
you don’t need to take out the resistor box. as long as you’re running low imp. injectors. in fact, you’d burn out the drivers in the ecm if you did[/QUOTE]
Thank you for the confirmation. There’s ton of different wiring diagrams online. I actually followed each sensor inside the distributor and traced the colors. All do match up except the infamous 2 wires. I’ll keep you guys updated.
np. i usually prefer conv. harness’ myself cuz you don’t have to tamper with a good resellable part, it’s easy, not that expensive, and the harness itself is even resellable. just some food for thought. hope all goes well
Okay. I’m about to burn her to the ground. I got another distributor just to be safe. I even had a buddy re-pin it for me. Triple checked wiring and all is good. Plugged in my ecu and no start. Plugged in my friend’s ecu with a different ecu jumper harness and bam. It starts. Tried my ecu with his ecu harness and no start. I am completely stumped.
it sounds like you need an ecm
I wouldn’t be surprised. I just picked up another p06 from a buddy, I’ll be giving it a shot.
