1990 teg with obd1 b20/b16 swap
im still stumped trying to get this car started after it was parked for the winter.
ive changed the main relay/coil which was bad had rust on the metal part of it/cap+rotor/cables are good/spark plugs is good/getting gas/fuses are good.... just not getting spark.
anyhow i got my spare nec obd0 icm to fit in the obd1 plug and play/ just had to change the bracket that goes on it . still no start just crank.
i guess the icm is different on the inside.
also i tested the icms off the car and had the tester on auto since i dont really know about this stuff so bare with me if this makes some kind of sense lol ..
OBD 0 NEC readings
2.213 from right corner plug and right last plug
3.207 from middle plug and 1st plug
OBD1 NO NAME which was on my car (previous ower)
07.14 1st plug and middle plug
2.209 last right plug and right corner plug
nice thing about these hondas (i guess it’s nice) is that they pack the cmp, ckp, and tdc sensors into the distributor. one reason why a no spark condition is nearly always remedied by replacing the distributor. that, and they are just completely underrated for these high revving engines. but yes, start by checking for power at the pin i previously suggested with the key on
Does this explain the “no crank” weirdness when trying to start after sitting “hot” for a while, even though she’ll crank/fireup immediately after being shut down?
a no crank would have nothing todo with the distributor. only the starting circuit. when you go to crank it, do you hear anything from the starter? a click?
Zip. Nada. Key to Start (?) position, all dashlights are on per normal. Wait for “check” engine light to go out and turn key full right. Most often she cranks and fires right up. After sitting a while after a long drive though, occasionally, nothing (or even just sitting in the sun). Open the hood and let things really cool down for a bit and she’ll start up no problem. Next week, after the eye doc lasers the haze off my eyeballs (similiar to eBay one piece headlights) and I can see properly agan, I’m going to go through and clean up all related grounds as a first step . . .
[QUOTE=bendogz;2326430]fellow member said the CPK is a VR sensor, just a coil of wire and a magnet, nothing to break or go bad
i ill try to find another[/QUOTE]
if you’re running an obd1 ecm, you’ve likely disabled the original b20b ckp which resides down at the crank. and actually that inductive coil sensor down by the crank is a ckf sensor, not ckp. the ckp is located inside your distributor and, to the best of my knowledge, is non serviceable. easy way to tell if a ckp may be bad is a no spark and no fuel condition while cranking. if you’ve got injector pulse while cranking, the ckp is not the culprit.
but really, we’re thinking too deeply on this. it’s gonna be the distributor. it’s always the distributor
do you at least hear the starter relay, behind the stereo area, click when you crank? if you don’t at least hear that then try looping the clutch switch. see if that smartens it up. if it does, replace the clutch switch. or clean the contacts. apparently people service them i think. assuming this is a 5spd. if that doesn’t do it, you’ll have to start probing at the fuse panel while the problem is ocurring
