Not changing oil filter?

So I went to do an oil change today, all was going well until it came time to take off the old oil filter. I spent 20 minutes trying to get it off by hand, then I tried using my oil filter wrench, but even with all my body weight on the wrench, I couldn’t budge the filter. Finally I gave up and just put in the fresh oil without changing the filter. My question is, is it ok to drive for another 5000km without changing the filter, or should I just suck up the cost of the oil and take it to a shop and see if they can do it?

By the way, I’m not exactly sure why the filter is seized; I’ve changed my oil many times before and always put it on hand-tight and never had a problem getting it off before. I know for a fact that I didn’t put it on that tightly last time. The only possible reason I can think of is that it has been bitterly cold here recently (today was actually the first day above freezing in over a month) but I don’t think that could have affected it…

was your motor warm wen your were changing the oil?

shove a screwdriver through it, then try, hopefully it wont slip like a filter wrench

Spray some liquid wrench around it and then try. U can the car witt da filter on it now but its gonna clogh up fast and give u bad fuel economy. Might even smoke. But like I said use liquid wrench let it sit for a little and try if not then use the screwdriver method dude above me suggested

pretty sure that filter is full, now all ur unfiltered oil is gonna bypass ur oil filter and create Sludge/grime in your head.

We have no way of telling how clogged the filter media is. It may still be serviceable, or it may not.

It may be okay for the short term, but all I know is I wouldn’t trust it for another 5000 km. Forget smoke, fuel economy, or sludge buildup. What’s critical is that modern detergent oils hold particulate matter in suspension until it can be passed through the filter. If it’s not filtered out what you’re left with is abrasive particles floating in suspension being pumped throughout your engine. There’s also the issue of how those contaminants effect the lubricating qualities of the oil itself. Don’t chance it. Oil is comparitively cheap.

Besides, you can still change it without draining all the oil. There’ll be some oil remaining in the filter after shutdown, but the majority will be in the pan and crankcase. Or you can drain the oil into a clean pan first and reuse it.

acuralover makes a good point. Try warming up the engine beforehand if you didn’t the first time. That may soften the gasket enough for you to break it free. Also, what kind of filter wrench are you using? Is it an adjustable band type, or the filter-specific type that you use with a ratchet? Is it slipping?

If the wrench you have doesn’t work, try a different style or try some penetrating oil first. Be patient and only use the screwdriver trick as a last resort. Be warned that if it doesn’t work your car will be undriveable and you won’t get the filter off without making one hell of a mess. You may have to mangle it in order to remove it. I’ve had that happen with a filter that was frozen on once. The screwdriver just tore through the shell.

How much is a filter? How much is four litres of oil? How much is your car?

Do the math.

Maybe try a pair of channel locks. I definitely wouldnt go that long on an old filter.

get a good filter wrench and force! im a mechanic so ive done more oil changes that i can count and sometimes people put on filters dry and so tight its unbelievable, but ive always been able to get them off. so you should also.

You’ll be absolutely fine, there’s nothing to worry about if you go over a little bit, even 5k km is no big deal. People are generally undereducated about oil and as thus are wasting a ton of it.

People make this huge stink about how you need to change your oil ever 3k miles, that’s BS. That time interval had to have been created by places like Jiffylube to get more business, or possibly even the oil companies. Did you even realize that the oil change interval Honda gave your car at time of manufacture was closer to 6-7k miles?

And that’s with conventional motor oil, if you’re using synthetic you can go even longer. I wait 10-12k mi before changing the oil on my new car (been using synthetic since I got it at 20k mi). There are all sorts of tests out there where people have sent their oil in at regular intervals to see when it starts to break down. The one’s I’ve seen have been fine up until about 15-18k miles and at that point it’s still not something anyone would deam dangerous. Just that it starts showing up on the tests.

yeah, i always change my oil at 5000 km, even though it’s really not needed. especially if your engine has been well taken care of, and it’s full of sludge and stuff. when i got my CR-V a little while ago, i was reading the manual that came with it. does anyone want to guess how long it says in the honda manual to go between oil changes? i’ll give you a hint: 12,000 KM. so, i think with the new rig, i will probably just use the specific oil they say to use (5W-30 energy efficient or something like that) and change it every 10,000 KM. it’s still relatively low mileage, and it’s not burning or leaking any oil. the oil that is in it is still clean, and i don’t drive the bag off it. there would be no point, it’s a CR-V.

anyway, i wouldn’t sweat about it too much. and like GoGreen says, the majority of your oil will drain to the pan anyway. what you lose from pulling the filter off won’t be substantial. after you get the filter changed, just top up, and you will be good. i’m not sure what kind of wrench you are using, but i have an adjustable rubber one myself. best $5 you will ever spend for something that at times proves quite invaluable. i’ve used it to unstick quite a few filters now, as generally when i get a new vehicle the filter is stuck on. used it on some friend’s cars too, and once on a ZC swap that was stuck on so damn hard nobody could get it off. stuck that little adjustable wonder on there, and it turned off like it wasn’t even on tight. i find the metal hoop filter wrenches just slip if the filter is on too tight, which kind of defeats the purpose of the wrench in the first place.

you can try a little piece of non-slip mat too. that shit you can get a giant sheet of at the dollar store, you put it under floor mats so they don’t slip on the floor. cut a chunk off, and use that on it (think about when you use a towel over a jar to get the top off) and that might get the job done too.

[QUOTE=Colin;1970210]You’ll be absolutely fine, there’s nothing to worry about if you go over a little bit, even 5k km is no big deal. People are generally undereducated about oil and as thus are wasting a ton of it.

People make this huge stink about how you need to change your oil ever 3k miles, that’s BS. That time interval had to have been created by places like Jiffylube to get more business, or possibly even the oil companies. Did you even realize that the oil change interval Honda gave your car at time of manufacture was closer to 6-7k miles?

And that’s with conventional motor oil, if you’re using synthetic you can go even longer. I wait 10-12k mi before changing the oil on my new car (been using synthetic since I got it at 20k mi). There are all sorts of tests out there where people have sent their oil in at regular intervals to see when it starts to break down. The one’s I’ve seen have been fine up until about 15-18k miles and at that point it’s still not something anyone would deam dangerous. Just that it starts showing up on the tests.[/QUOTE]

True. The manual does specify 10,000 or 12,000 km between oil changes. And it’s likely that the 3000 mile change interval is a holdover from the era of non-detergent oil and partial-flow oil filtration.

I actually had an engineering prof who went several years on the same oil. He used Amsoil synthetic with a secondary fine-media filter that was capable of trapping much smaller particles than a typical filter. He would just change filters regularly and top up the level.

So I have no doubt one can have success with extended drain intervals. I’ve actually looked into it myself but I think the key is to have your oil tested regularly to see how your particular brand or type of oil behaves in your engine under the environmental conditions that your car sees. Too many variables for my liking, and even though you can’t tell the condition of the oil by looking at it, mine does come out black after 5k and I usually notice increased oil consumption as I approach 5k (conventional oil).

The thing that bothers me about extended oil changes in particular is the possible effect of condensation from short periods of cold running, which is quite common for me. In extreme cold my temperature gauge may not reach the mid range until I’m half way to work. Also, the OP is at a rather high altitude, which may mean his engine has more soot buildup than average. Combine that with some blowby and condensation from extreme cold and you’ve got acid in the crankcase.

For that reason, I think if I were to do extended drain intervals I would still change the filter every 5000 km. But I could be wrong. Maybe I’ll cut open my old filter to see how clogged it is.

Oh for criminy sakes. I had this problem just last month, not able to loosen the filter. Yes, I was unscrewing it the right direction, duh! I too refilled the crankcase with new oil, took an unopened quart with me, and drove to the neared Jiffy Lube. They removed my old filter, installed a new Jiffy filter (which I swapped when I got back home) and topped off the oil with my quart for a grand total of…$3.75 out the door. Wake up america!:read:

Thanks for the replies. I feel like a goof for making a thread about something so routine as an oil change!
To be safe I’m going to take it into Mr Lube and have them do it.
Cheers!

I just wanted to add my 0.02¢ on the screwdriver trick. DONT DO IT! My old room mate tried it and it just opened the filter like a sardine can. We pretty much had to pull the motor to get the remains off. Even with the motor half way out, exposing the remains, it was a nightmare to get off as all that was left was a very thin, jagged edge.

with the location of the factory oil filter
if u cant remove it by hand try a cap(black plastic)

do not use as is

wrap a old shirt around the filter first
then hammer on the cap so its very snug
then wrench it out

if that fails
go buy a Rubber Strap Wrench-this shit is stronger than u think

NEVer use a screwdrvier method like mentioned above. if you fuck it up more ull be stuck removing engine

also always warm up the engine before u change oil
that gets the oil warm and moving.

let me elaborate on the screwdriver trick, use common sense if it starts to open up the filter STOP its obviously not gonna work

hasn’t anybody ever heard of oil filter pliers? it works wonders for me. i got a whole set of different sizes at my work. and i ALWAYS take them out to the car when i do an oil change. they work better than oil filter wrenches n stuff when its a stubborn oil filter. i suggest buying 1 for hondas… cuz it saves time and effort. and lets not forget aggravation.

But then you’d have a hole in the filter and it would still be stuck on. So driving to a Jiffy Lube or to the parts store for a different tool would be out of the question, unless you had a second vehicle.

I just checked my Helms manual, and it does say 7,500 miles under ideal conditions. But it also says to change oil twice as often under severe conditions such as extreme cold or heat, stop-and-go driving, dusty conditions, or towing. So 3,750 miles is appropriate for me as recommended by the manual (stop-and-go in extreme cold).

I have one question about the oil filter as well. I have the same problem with the filter that I left it unchanged because I had no space to work around it. I have loop tool for it but I have no space to get it loosen and to make matters worse, the filter doesn’t have grip on it. Can I use any other tools or other methods? I read the screw driver one but I have never tried it.