Not RUNNING after HEAD GASKET JOB

ASSISTANCE Stock Engine-Bay Components
1

Well like the title says. . .

A LITTLE back ground:

The car ran fine except every now and then the TEMP gauge would go up.
I would turn on the heater and full blast and no go. Temp would not go down.
If I was crusin and downshifted to make the motor run faster it WOULDNT make the temp go down,

So after a closer inspection I noticed that my compression leaked into the COOLANT system.

So I decided to tackle a head gasket job, and did everythin like it should be done. FYI this wasnt my first HEAD gasket NOT only that I have an OEM integra book covering the whole shebang on how to do the head gasket . .

so got everythin back together, yet timing was off.

RE DID timing and it was good, motor sounded better.

It has fuel

it has spark

BUt doesnt stay on once you get it to start, UNLESS you hold the gas PAST 1k and IF you go past 4600 the RPMs go wack.

So got A NEW distibutor and was slapped on also another ECU was swapped out from a good runnin DA and it started fine but still no go

KEEP IN MIND MOTOR RAN FINE EXCEPT FOR COOLANT ISSUE, NO ELECTRICAL OR COMPONENTS ISSUES OR ANYTHIN ELSE FYI

But after every time you reset the ECU it staRTS up with no ISSUE

EVEN slapped on a PK2 PRELUDE ecu and started up on first try but died after 2 minutes too being wrong ECU IMO,

so IM lost guys I really dont want to part away with the car, shes been the longest car I have owned

I know its something mechanical

BUt funds and TIME and short to figuere her out

HENCE she sat for 4 yrs till she ran again and she DID held up good with tha abuse too.

Im just lost and dont know wat else to do.

I DONT WANT to sent her to the CRUSHERS or SELL her off, cause in HOUSTON you dont see many 4 door DB1s specially factory 5 speed ones too

SO I finally come onto here for aid.

This site has always been good to me foe info so hope some good PPl chime in with good info.

Cause I miss MY BBY!!!

2

sure you didn’t get the tps connector mixed up?

3

Nope the harness has been double checked several times.

Checked all the right connectors according to the OEM book

4

have you checked for codes?

5

Narrowing the tree

Hmm. Dilemma! I’m pretty new to the Acura scene but have been troubleshooting european and american cars for a long time. I’m thinking if this were my car, I would want to narrow this decision tree, because right now you just have too many possibilities. One thing that might help figure out what’s going on is knowing what its run/start characteristics are like now. I agree checking for codes would be a good idea, especially since you say resetting the ECU allows you to start the car again. That would suggest the ECU is finding a serious fault, but that’s only one possibility.

Does it start easily? How does it run? You say it sounds like it won’t idle below 1000 and what happens when you go above 4600? This is too major to be plugs, but I would check your spark plug wires (I know this sounds like DUH but hear me out)–check that you haven’t switched wires or that you don’t have wire problems after changing the distributor. Is the distributor KNOWN good, or assumed good? That might help narrow things a bit?

When you have changed something and then things go haywire, suspect anything associated with that change first.

best,

David

6

i say check air idle control v or tps

7

^^^neither of those will cause a no start