My car would bog as if it was about to stall below 1.5k. I changed fuel filter, brand new ngk spark plug wires and plug, cleaned the iacv and fitv, and used distributor. there is no CEL. i checked my timing two times already. the car still bogs same thing. i used a timing light and it is way off, even setting my distributor retarded to its max. i guess its my timing but how do I fix my timing even though its perfectly TDC but my timing light says its way off…?
Firstly, did you put a jumper in the service connector, located behind the passenger-side kick panel? If not then the ECU is advancing the timing. What you need to measure is base ignition timing, which should be set at 16 degrees before TDC. Here’s a procedure:
oh man. With the car off, i spin the pulley to 16 degrees and match up with the mark on the belt cover?
i have been doing it all wrong then. i lined up the mark that was by itself (0 degree?)
my car is a 1991 so i do not think have that service connector and i did not jump it.
i’ll post back the results when i redo the timing!
Hold on, I think you may have misunderstood! You use the TDC mark on the pulley to set CAM timing (that is, lining up the cam gears), but you use the 16 degree mark to set IGNITION timing, which is adjusted by turning the distributor.
If your cam timing was set using the TDC mark then leave it alone, and follow the procedure I posted to check the ignition timing with your timing light.
oh ok. Then I did everything correctly. With the timing light, I can not match up to any of the marks when turning the distributor…it is way off.
EDIT with the jumper connected, it threw code 7 and 14.
You should still have the service connector, if I’m not mistaken. You don’t need it to read CEL codes, but I think you still need to jump it to check ignition timing.
I checked mine once without jumping the connector (really just to see if my new timing light worked) and the reading was way off (extremely advanced) because the ECU was advancing the timing from the base setting of 16 degrees.
Edit: Just saw your updated post. Chase down the CEL codes and you may find your answer…
Code 7 is a TPS sensor
Code 14 is a IAC valve bad or ECU
To check timing you need to jump the service pin (2 pin) in the RF kick panel area (your “check engine” light should flash). Then you need to start the car. Connect your test light amp clamp to the number one spark plug wire. Then point the flash towards the crank pulley. There’s a notch in the lower timing belt cover that should be lining up somewhere with the notches on the crank pulley. Both B17A1 and B18A1 should be 16 degrees +/- 2 degrees. Your idle speed (with headlights and cooling fan off) should be: B18A1 - 750 +/- 50 rpm, B17A1 - 800 +/- 50 rpm.
Your original “bogging” complaint definitely sounds like a TPS problem. I would replace it and reset the ECU. After that I would set the base idle and ignition timing. Good luck!
[QUOTE=GoGreen;2192828]You should still have the service connector, if I’m not mistaken. You don’t need it to read CEL codes, but I think you still need to jump it to check ignition timing.
I checked mine once without jumping the connector (really just to see if my new timing light worked) and the reading was way off (extremely advanced) because the ECU was advancing the timing from the base setting of 16 degrees.
Edit: Just saw your updated post. Chase down the CEL codes and you may find your answer…[/QUOTE]
You DO need to jump the connector to read CEL codes.
Have you checked Mechanical timing?
I followed the ignition timing from c-speed racing article from idling at 800 to jumping the service connector. With the timing gun, the distributor is advanced to the max and not reaching the red mark…did not even pass the white mark yet. If i retard, the mark is further away instead. If I were to eye ball it, i would say the belt cover mark is couple inch away from reaching the red mark…maybe less than that. People say I have the wrong crank pulley or my distributor is messed up.
As for the code 7 and 14, there was no code at all till I did the jump for the service connector for the first time. I would spot the code on my gauge or look at my led on the ecu. I never knew about the service connector. Looks like I have to dremel the screws for another TPS and get another IACV.
I can barely find anything about mechanical timing except spin the crank pull to line the TDC for cam gears and the white mark…
Sound like your having the same issue as me! But just that with mine if advance to the max it does get to the red mark and retarding it, it’s further away! Your probably going to have to redo timing from the crankshaft/pulley/belt again, your probably off by sum teeth.
That means your base engine timing is off (as in timing belt jumped a tooth or something). You’re gonna have to pull the plastic timing belt covers (upper and lower) off and make sure that, with the crank pulley lined up to #1 cylinder TDC, that the cams are in time. If they aren’t I’d be looking really closely at that timing belt tensionner. I would be replacing it just to be sure. Cheaper to put a tensionner than a motor. Chances are the tensionner is no good and the timing jumped. Once that’s all cleared up you should be able to re-time the cams to the crank. Then you can tweak with the ignition timing. This all seems to be contributing to your original problem.
By the way, what engine are we dealing with here?
If you don’t mind me asking.
its a 1991 integra b18a1. here’s the update…
i got code 7, 14 and now 6 (ect) with the jumper connected and would not start at all. i took out the jumper connected and reset the ecu and no code at all. I put back the jumper connected and i got only code 6. i guess my ecu is done for…
i turned the crank pulley to TDC and checked the cams. no jumped teeth on the cams and the cover mark is right on the white mark…still have that bog at low rpms…
i believe I have two different problems on my hands. any ideas?
i just ordered myself a new blox tps too and now there is no code for it >.>
Alrighty, my mistake then. I wasn’t sure if there was a difference in procedure between 90-91 and 92-93 ECU’s.
this is a bit late but the problem was fixed. turns out my ignition system (says the smog tech) was messed up and i bought a brand new distributor from kragen and everything is running perfectly now.