:idea: found an easier way to convert obd0 injector plugs to obd1 w/o soldering! i was comparing the two and found that it was a little notch that was different between the two. so i took the soldering iron and melted the plastic on the obd0 plug to match the obd1 plug…and success!! fit like a glove on the injectors.
Colin i need a hand, i’ve got pretty much all the pieces, but how do u remove the gray connectors and push the wires back into the power plug.
alright got the main pins done, but the other ones are to fat to fit through the cream connector 
how do i fix this???
I don’t remember having any problems w/ mine. Although I used gray plugs on the dist connections, not cream. They just popped right in place fo rme. However on a different connector (i forget what it was for) they were different sizes, I simply cut the rubber portion around the end of the pin so that the diameter was small enough to fit into the new plastic connector.
sorry if that doesn’t help much, any chance you could get pics?
Colin,
Did you use OBD1 injectors or are you still using OBD0 with the resistor box on your car?
Duy, I’m running obd1 injectors and no resistor box. I only decided to do it this way because it looks cleaner (no resistor box in the engine bay). Other than looks and what parts you happen to have in your garage, there is no benefit either way.
current uberdata has o2 heater disable function 
if not i this info from plx devices
[I]Install the 20 Ohm, 10 Watt load resistor to prevent the engine check error code. This allows your ECU to “think” that your stock narrowband sensor is still being heated. This resistor can be obtained from your local radio shack or electronics store. If 20 Ohms is not available, two 10 Ohm, 10 Watt resistors connected in series (not parallel) will also work.
It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that your 20 Ohm resistor is rated 10 Watts or greater. This resistor gets hot during operation and extreme care must be taken to find a suitable location to mount. Avoid contact with plastic, wires, tubes and any material that may potentially be flammable.
[/I]
Question
Now i got a question about this obd0-obd1 thing.
Lets say you want to run the AEM EMS which is for obd1 but you have an obd0 ecu.
Why don’t you just get an obd1 plug cut the wires from the obd0 leaving enough to connect to the obd1 plug and plug it into the AEM EMS and be done with it.
From looking at the wiring graphs you just have to move some of the wires so when you plug them into the AEM EMS it is reading the right senors.
That don’t sound to hard. now am i missing something.
Help me out is it that simple.
Go back to my write-up and actually read the WHOLE thing. I do mention the method you speak of.
You are right man now i got it. I thought i would have to buy another stock ECU. All i have to do is buy the AEM EMS, jumper Harness,Obd1 Dizzy and follow the instuctions cool because i had plan to buy a distr. anyway. Thks
DE
Which Distributor??
i have a 91 teg that im boosting and im doin the conversion to obd1 and i have the 4wire o2 the harness and everything except the distributor. i figured id just go get a 92 integra or civic distributor for the 1.8 so its non vtec like my b18a1 but they are coming up with 2 part numbers. Anyone have a part number for a distributor that will work for my car? I’m running a P06 if that would matter, more so i have a harness from JKconversions…
just buy a dist for any 92-95 b18a/b equipped integra (any non-gsr model integra). You cannot use a civic dist because they are for the d series engines that came in 92-95 civics.
got it now…thanks! i just had like td44u and td55u and all different numbers floatin around but im straight now…only problem, wires arent the same color. i swear i saw a post where the wires were labeled…could be wrong but i cant find it again. i know i should have color for color except the white but that aint the case…n e one with n e info itd be appretiated
Where did you get your dist from? I know that some aftermarket distributors do not use the same wire colors as the oem ones. For example Distributor King dists are different. Member Archon did the obd1 conversion and used a dist king dist… I believe he has a picture or diagram or something posted here on g2ic that talks about the wire color differences. You should also be able to figure out which wires are which by looking through some manuals and comparing which colors go to each connection within the dist.
very nice 
Sorry to bring this post back from the dead, but this was actually the number one hit when I googled -obd 0 obd 1 conversion- and I know Colin is still around and hope some of you can help me out…
Anyway, a little background a couple months back my car shut off and when I started it back up it was knocking super loud so I had it towed home to tear it down and find this…
So I got myself the 170hp version of the b16 with a p30 ecu and decided to convert to obd1. It’s all in right now…
So here go the questions. I’ve done the distributor and the o2 sensor wiring; I have a conversion harness and need to know exactly what the extra wires I am looking at are.
What are these wires sitting on the oil filter (temp)?
Do I extend them to here (the green and black wires) or are these something else?
And these are at the front of the distributor, can anyone identify these for me? A single green wire… and a plug with a blue and a black wire…
Sorry if these are newbie questions but I guess I am a newbie when it comes to obd1 and vtec… Thanks in advance for any help.
-Chris
[QUOTE=cmcdani;1814422]Sorry to bring this post back from the dead, but this was actually the number one hit when I googled -obd 0 obd 1 conversion- and I know Colin is still around and hope some of you can help me out…
Anyway, a little background a couple months back my car shut off and when I started it back up it was knocking super loud so I had it towed home to tear it down and find this…
So I got myself the 170hp version of the b16 with a p30 ecu and decided to convert to obd1. It’s all in right now…
So here go the questions. I’ve done the distributor and the o2 sensor wiring; I have a conversion harness and need to know exactly what the extra wires I am looking at are.
What are these wires sitting on the oil filter (temp)?
Do I extend them to here (the green and black wires) or are these something else?
And these are at the front of the distributor, can anyone identify these for me? A single green wire… and a plug with a blue and a black wire…
Sorry if these are newbie questions but I guess I am a newbie when it comes to obd1 and vtec… Thanks in advance for any help.
-Chris[/QUOTE]
i believe your engine is already OBDI… just take a look at your distributor plugs.
also the SiR II (170HP) B16 should be obd1
Mine is a 1990 ,so it was obd0, I already converted the distributor and o2 sensor (the things I knew).
Anyway, I found a diagram that might help people having these problems in the future, so I will share…
Anyway, I hope I can get this wrapped up, I have been driving a Cavalier for the last three months.
-Chris
yeah i totally forgot about that. anyhows seems you got things down pact. nice diagram btw.
Chris: It has been years since I have did the conversion, so the exact details aren’t fresh in my mind, but I’ll try to help you out. If you still have questions do some searches here on g2ic, I talked about all of this wiring before (keywords: ect (engine coolant temperature) sensor, ect switch, ect sending unit, vtec solenoid, knock sensor, oil pressure switch, oil pressure sending unit).
Photo #3: The two wires near your oil filter are for the ECT switch. On the 90-91 engines this switch is located on the back of the block. On the obd1 engines it is integrated into the thermostat housing. Cut the connector for the obd1 ECT switch off of your obd1 engine harness (leave lots of extra wire attached). Cut off the connectors on your obd0 engine harness. Splice on the obd1 connector and plug it into the ECT switch on your thermostat housing.
Photo #4: It’s hard to see the exact wires in that photo… my answer above should have ready answered this. That gray colored connector is plugged into your ECT switch, it should have 2 wires coming from it and needs to connect to the two wires from Photo #1.
The small bolt which threads into the thermostat housing should be holding down a ground wire.
Photo #5: The unit which bolts to the head and sits right next to the end of your exhaust camshaft is your vtec solenoid. This is what actuates vtec. You’ll need to splice a wire into that one and wire it directly to your ECU.
The other sensor you see there is called your ECT Sensor. This should match up with your stock wiring. The sensor is in a slightly different location, but is still on that end of the head. And the color of the connectors is different, but you shouldn’t need to do any splicing / rewiring for this one.
Hope that helps!
btw, photo #1 looks awfully familiar… here’s the engine from our race car:
