I have one more question for anyone out there… In photo number three, I have a green plug plugged in. It seems from searching the site that, that is the knock sensor and that the b16 won’t have a use for the plug that I have going to it (oil temp on the b18a that the b16 doesn’t have?)… But I couldnt find anyone who had posted definitively. Can anyone confirm this? Anyhow, the car should be ready to be fired up Saturday for the first time since November.
Thanks again to Colin and G2IC for the wealth of knowledge…
But actually unless you knew EXACTLY what you were looking for, that post would probably be hard to find.
I’m unsure of whether your b16a has an engine oil temp switch, but regardless, the way it’s plugged in now is incorrect. If your new motor does not require an engine oil temp switch then you can use it how you have it plugged in now, but you’ll need to repin those wires at the ecu so they are getting where they need to be.
I’ve got another question for you. I have a TD-22U obd0 distributor, instead of going out and getting an obd1 ls and chopping the leg off, can i swap internals? what all would i need to swap? ignitor? i’m kind of in the dark and fairly new to distributors/obd swaps
Sorry, doesn’t work. The distributors are just plain old different, too different to swap internals. Take the two apart side by side and you’ll see that stuff doesn’t just swap over.
If it was that easy… it’d probably be the easy / cheap recommendation for obd conversions. But when you look at all of the how-tos you’ll see that each and every time you need an obd1 ecu, distributor and a 4 wire o2 sensor. Just about everything else can be wired up different or modified, but you need those parts. Actually, come to think about it, I’m pretty sure there have been a couple people who have rigged up a different o2 sensor setup… but the modified setups I’ve seen don’t seem ideal.
Hey just so yall know almost all solenoids ( such as iab control, fuel injectors, vaccum control solenoids.etc) are ground controled…so they must have 12v with the ignition on to one terminal and the pcm controls the ground
Sorry to revive this, but nothing was really mentioned about the alternator? I was under the impression there was a difference between obd-0 and obd-1? I’ve successfully completed the conversion. Quite enjoy it! The biggest thing I noticed was smoother idle, easier take-off (harder to stall) and better throttle response. Anyways, my alternator just crapped on me and I’m wondering if I should just get another obd-0 alternator or should I get the obd-1. The harness is the same, just the internals are different correct? TIA
I’m not really sure if there are any differences between the alternators, it’s not something I’ve ever heard before. I want to say that you could use either once cause they’re the same… but since I’m not positive about that I’d just recommend replacing your alt with the same year as you have now. It’s been working thusfar, so as the old saying goes “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”
I just checked acuraautomotiveparts.org and the part numbers are different, so there is some difference, but what that difference is I’m not sure.
But my issue is, I’d be replacing an obd-0 alternator into a now converted to obd-1 car… I think I’ll just get a new recored obd-1 and hope for the best.
If you’re using an obd0 alternator right now and it works fine, then why change to an obd1 alternator? If you’re sure it has something to do with the internals, and you’re sure there’s a benefit, then go for it… But if the difference is cosmetic or has to do with the wiring (doubt it since I’m pretty sure I’ve used both years on the same harness) or the fitment, then there’s no reason to change. I’d do some research before making a decision. But it’s up to you.
I called my parts store and asked if their system listed the difference between the years were and he said something about a load response sensor? I can see that as being a benefit… I really dont care about cosmetics. If it works and it’s reliable then I’m good. I actually was able to swap the brushes with new ones i had kickin’ around, but I’m still not charging. There should be battery power at the stud off the alternator e/o right?
To keep on topic, interesting that you’ve used both successfully on both obd setups…
If I’m not mistaken, the “load sensor” you’re talking about is the ELD (Electronic Load Detector). Problems with that system seem to be rare, but often trouble to find info on.
Like I said before, if you’ve already converted, and aren’t having any problems, then there’s no reason to change anything unless you know, for sure, that it will work.
Also, my original understanding of differences with the ELD was that it was a 90 vs 91 difference, not an obd0 vs obd1 difference… Either way, I see people buying/selling alternators all the time and never mention the year, if the year was important and caused ELD problems I’d expect there to be a LOT more threads about ELD codes resulting from people using the wrong alternator.
It was my regulator. There was no difference in price between the 90 and 91+ alternator so I got the 91+ and it’s been running for 2 days, no issues. Glad to clear things up that the alternator is not a key component for obd-0 to obd-1 swap :read:
D series distributors are different from B series and are not interchangeable. Some of the internals are swappable (like coils and igniters) but the housing itself, and in turn how it mounts to the head differ.
"*Here is a link to a diagram of which pins correspond to eachother between the two systems. I have not double checked this list personally, so I cannot verify it to be correct or not. http://www.boosted.org/ecu/ "
i just made this jumper using this webside. and it works lol
I’ve seen them used, and there’s nothing wrong with them. I just think they’re horribly ugly and unnecessary. Swapping the actual connectors yourself is easy and provides a clean install vs what I think looks one step up from a hack job. But if you simply need something that’s “plug n play” go for it.
