obd0 to obd1 distributor plug swap?
was wondering will a jdm b16 obd0 work if i swap the plugs from my bad obd1 ?
both has 2 plugs and the same amount of wires.
Yes, you can swap the connectors if you depin and repin them. I had an OBD1 distributor connector on my OBD0 engine harness for years. The ecu, harness, and distributor don’t care what connector is used so long as the wires are matched up properly. Personally I much prefer swapping the connectors instead of using one of the conversion harnesses (which I think look terrible).
EDIT: upon re-reading your question I’m now not sure I understood correctly. Are you asking if you can swap distributors or swap connectors? You can swap connectors but you cannot swap distributors. An OBD0 distributor will NOT work with an OBD1 ecu and an OBD1 distributor will NOT work with an OBD0 ecu - what wiring or connectors you’re using is irrelevant because the ECU and distributor must match.
thanks for the reply.
my car is obd1 b20/b16 with a chipped p28 and has no start due to a bad cpk after trouble shooting and testing.
so i have a spare obd0 jdm distributor thats good. 2 ROUND PLUGS
and i have a obd1 distributor that has a bad cpk. 2 SQAURE PLUGS
just figured that the obd1 plugs could be cut and soldered onto the obd0 since it has the same amount of wires
You cannot use your OBD0 distributor with your P28 ecu. The plugs are not what makes them compatible or not, it’s what’s inside the distributor that counts. Doesn’t matter what plugs you have on it, you need an OBD1 distributor.
whats different on the inside? they both have the coil/icm/cpk
Yes, they both have those parts but it’s something else in there that causes them not to be compatible. Someone posted some info on this a long time ago, if you’re interested you should search forum or try a general google search - I’m sure the info is out there somewhere.
thanks on the help colin
last question
what if i swap out the cpk from the obd0 and put it on the obd1? they look the same
My understanding was that the crank position sensor was not something that could be removed and that it was actually part of the distributor housing. Thus if it needs replacing then the dist housing must be replaced. Maybe it’s possible to go in there and remove it but I wouldn’t know where to begin, according to the factory service manual that part is not replaceable on it’s own.
its a little black box with 2 screws and has 2 wires that goes to the small plug
[QUOTE=bendogz;2326840]its a little black box with 2 screws and has 2 wires that goes to the small plug
[/QUOTE]
I’m not understanding you. You stated that the CKP is a black box with 2 screws, yet the picture you show only outlines the ignition coil and ignition control module. There’s no further explanation or anything. Are you making a statement? Asking a question?
That picture is not a CKP. I’m not sure what makes the distributor swap not work, but I do know obd-2 will work on obd-1 and vice versa.
sorry the CYP black box/sensor that is not marked its held on with 2 screws shown in the left part of the . this part goes to the 2 wire plug.
I guess I’m still confused, if the CKP is what has failed on yours, what relevance is the CYP? Or were you just posting the diagram for information sake in case someone stumbled on the thread? I thought at first you were trying to say that the CKP was in fact replaceable, but it still seems that it is not. But then again I haven’t tried to completely disassemble a distributor housing either.
meant to say the CYP. i guess i will check to see if i can swap it out.
and yes posted pic for other members.
everything is replaceable in the distributor. have swapped guts on many a Civic to make swaps work.
Are the parts just like the TPS where the manual says you need to replace the whole throttle body but with some modifications you can replace the TPS by itself? I’ve never seen someone replace the sensors within the distributor. I’d love to see a tutorial if you have a link to one.
Neither of these links are mine:
http://www.carolinahondas.com/installation-how-articles/99746-how-rebuild-distributor.html
That’s awesome, thanks for posting (got a warning with the first link, but the second link was perfect). I wasn’t aware you could pull the shaft out like that, definitely good to know. From your experience is it a pretty easy task?
Yes, it is. Just need to pay attention during reassembly to make sure you don’t end up 180 off. Some of the screws will try and strip, they’re soft metal and very stuck from 15+ years of being there.