I have a 1991 Integra LS.
I typically burn a quart of oil every 1500 miles, that is with Mobil 1 5W-30.
I was just wondering how much oil everyone else is burning.
I was just about to search and/or post about this problem. I have just burned 2 quarts in 3 days! I don’t know what’s going on yet and I haven’t had a chance to look close. I know there is no puddling on the ground.
Let me try and help you here. Give me info on:
- Condition of your engine (ie. mileage, is it leaking, etc.)
- Driving conditions (ie. lots of stop-and-go, etc.)
- Driving habits (ie. When do you shift, Speed alot, etc.)
- How cold does it get where you are?
- When did you notice you were leaking?
- What oil are you currently using, and what oil were you using before?
- Did you try fixing the problem by using some kind of miracle potion (ie. Slick50, STP Oil Flush, etc.)?
Regards,
Oz
Originally posted by The_Oz
[B]Let me try and help you here. Give me info on:
- Condition of your engine (ie. mileage, is it leaking, etc.)
- Driving conditions (ie. lots of stop-and-go, etc.)
- Driving habits (ie. When do you shift, Speed alot, etc.)
- How cold does it get where you are?
- When did you notice you were leaking?
- What oil are you currently using, and what oil were you using before?
- Did you try fixing the problem by using some kind of miracle potion (ie. Slick50, STP Oil Flush, etc.)?
Regards,
Oz [/B]
not leaking as of 2 weeks ago but like I said, I haven’t had time to look again.
1/2 and 1/2 stop and go and highway at 80-90mph ea/wk
auto shifting
not been cold…70-80deg c lately
was out of town over the weekend, came home and ligh came on…dip stick showed nothing
castroil 5w30 GTX
have used a potion before emissons test 2 mos ago
Originally posted by TR90LS
not leaking as of 2 weeks ago but like I said, I haven’t had time to look again.
1/2 and 1/2 stop and go and highway at 80-90mph ea/wk
auto shifting
not been cold…70-80deg c lately
was out of town over the weekend, came home and ligh came on…dip stick showed nothing
castroil 5w30 GTX
have used a potion before emissons test 2 mos ago
Before I recommend any kind of oil for you, Triple-confirm that you are not leaking that 2 quarts. Is the engine still running well with the problem? Have you hit 80-90mph with no problems ever since the problem arose? If so, then I would suspect more of a leak than a burn issue.
Buy yourself a compression tester (very cheap). Check your spark plugs for oil contamination. Do a compression test (184psi. is stock numbers for B18A engines), as a prelim. test on checking your piston rings.
Regards,
Oz
P.S. I would recommend using MINIMUM 10W30 if you want to stay with a 30wt. oil regardless if this oil problem occurred or not. Georgia does not reach -20Celsius temps. regularly if I’m not mistaken.
I do most of my work in my parent’s garage and I will go take a closer look and do compression testing tomorrow, hopefully. All i know is I had no problems and have never even seen the oil light in my teg for years. Then I come back from the beach and it’s on when I start the car. Check the level and no reading so I pour in 2 quarts to get back home. I’ve been busy at school this week but today I heard a sqeal when I cranked at the gas station. The car right next to me started up at the same time so I didn’t know who’s car did it. But them my light came on again. I made it another mile to get back home but I haven’t checked it out yet. Thanks for the help though, I’ll update or inq
i burn about 1/4quart every other month since i put on a 95 head with new gaskets, rings, grommets, etc. at teh same time i switched to mobil supersyn 5w30. my compression readings are about 190psi across the board.
before the swap i used 10w30 castrol and burned maybe a quart every month.
i guess i drive about 800-1100miles per month, automatic, pretty hard. WOT (wide open throttle) at least twice a day 
edit; you know what, i just changed the distributor o-ring today cuz it was leaking. i think now i wont be burning any oil at all! sweet. we’ll see
Originally posted by XDEep
[B]i burn about 1/4quart every other month since i put on a 95 head with new gaskets, rings, grommets, etc. at teh same time i switched to mobil supersyn 5w30. my compression readings are about 190psi across the board.
before the swap i used 10w30 castrol and burned maybe a quart every month.
i guess i drive about 800-1100miles per month, automatic, pretty hard. WOT (wide open throttle) at least twice a day
edit; you know what, i just changed the distributor o-ring today cuz it was leaking. i think now i wont be burning any oil at all! sweet. we’ll see [/B]
X,
I totally recommend Mobil’s SuperSyn 0W40 or Mobil Delvac 1 5W40. OR at least run SuperSyn 10W30. The 5W30 won’t last long the way you’re driving.
Regards,
Oz
Originally posted by TR90LS
I do most of my work in my parent’s garage and I will go take a closer look and do compression testing tomorrow, hopefully. All i know is I had no problems and have never even seen the oil light in my teg for years. Then I come back from the beach and it’s on when I start the car. Check the level and no reading so I pour in 2 quarts to get back home. I’ve been busy at school this week but today I heard a sqeal when I cranked at the gas station. The car right next to me started up at the same time so I didn’t know who’s car did it. But them my light came on again. I made it another mile to get back home but I haven’t checked it out yet. Thanks for the help though, I’ll update or inq
Let me know what you find. I have driven a B18A with no oil trace on the dipstick before, but my oil light never came on. Pay close attention to your oil pressure sending unit and your oil pump.
Regards,
Oz
Originally posted by The_Oz
[B]X,
I totally recommend Mobil’s SuperSyn 0W40 or Mobil Delvac 1 5W40. OR at least run SuperSyn 10W30. The 5W30 won’t last long the way you’re driving.
Regards,
Oz [/B]
hm can you remind me why id want 0w40 or 10w30 over 5w30? i live in socal, relatively on the warm to hot side. my car starts very quickly too.
what im thinking is the 0 will be better for starting, and since i drive hard the 40 will be more protective. the 10w30 is good all around, yet 10w40 has had its issues… and as far as the 5w30 it has chemical issues the others dont right
Originally posted by XDEep
[B]hm can you remind me why id want 0w40 or 10w30 over 5w30? i live in socal, relatively on the warm to hot side. my car starts very quickly too.
what im thinking is the 0 will be better for starting, and since i drive hard the 40 will be more protective. the 10w30 is good all around, yet 10w40 has had its issues… and as far as the 5w30 it has chemical issues the others dont right [/B]
X,
Just FYI. All of Mobil’s Synthetic lineup (SuperSyn, Tri-Synth., Delvac 1) start at its second number designation. So if you take 10W30, it is a 30wt. that is made to flow like a 10W at 40C. Unlike most dino-based oils which start at its lower designation made to flow thicker.
Mobil’s 5W30 synths unfortunately start at the thinner range of the 30wt. scale. Very close to 20wt. border So, when it does break down, you could easily have a 5W20 flowing through your engine. The 10W30 synth starts less than the middle point of the 30wt. scale. A slight thicker than 5W30. This was a common problem with the Tri-Synth. series of Mobil. It is believed that they have remedied this problem by upgrading the basestock that is being used in SuperSyn. So far, I’ve only seen oil analysis comparisons on the 10W30 weights, and the results are pretty impressive.
Apart from this, I personally do not see the need for a 5W or a 0W multi-viscosity oil especially in a place like Orange County regardless of the season. However, an oil such as Delvac 1 5W40 is quite an exception.
There is a big reason why Motorcycles and Diesel engines are still recommended with a 40wt. type oil from the manufacturer. And that is the constant metal-to-metal contact that they are exposed to due to a very high redline (Motos) and/or extreme load conditions (Diesels). The oil’s state of lubrication during these conditions is called Boundary Lubrication. An oil too thin (such as 30wt.) will readily rely on its anti-wear additives (commonly Zinc) to prevent metal-to-metal because the thin oil is literally “squeezed out” between the two metal surfaces. A thicker oil will have a higher resistance to this “squeeze out” effect, providing both a very thin film of oil and another layer of anti-wear additive.
Delvac 1 - which is CI-4 certified before CI-4 was even official not only has a very STRONG basestock (leaps and bounds stronger than tri-synth. and possibly SuperSyn as well), but also coupled with a very effective additive package. Hence, diesel fleets can easily go past 10000miles with this oil and not something like SuperSyn.
As far as any difference between 5W and 10W startups during summer conditions, I haven’t felt any. And as far as MPG is concerned between 30wt. and 40wt…very negligible. In fact, my best MPG came from the 40wt. and the worst from the 30wt. (calculated using an automotive personal care software).
I hope I sold the 5W40 idea to you well 
If you have any other questions, feel free to contact me.
Regards,
Oz